I drilled a hole on each side (of vertical structure) of the bush hog to receive a bolt.

I then ran the bolt through the end link of the chain and bolted to the bush hog. (use washers as required to keep chain from slipping off the bolt.

I then ran each chain to a "quick" link. Like the one picutred. The two quick links then hang on the pin of a clevis and the top link pin goes through the loop of the clevis. I adjust the height by adjusting where the quick link is attached to the chain.

Total cost was about $5.00-$7.00 for 2 quick links, 3 or so feet of chain, and the clevis.

Jeff
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Is your top link solid or flexible?

Do you have a rear wheel on the bush hog?

I made up a pair that go between the tractor top link and bush hog lower links, shackles on both ends and turn buckles in both.
 
So does any Ford/New Holland dealer. Same limit chain set that is used on any Ford 8N, 9N, or 2N.
If your bush hog trailing wheel is adjusted properly, and the top link is adjusted properly, you will find you don;t antually need limit chains, the built-in Ferguson draft compensation built-in to your Fergy will lift the bush hog to the height you set by adjusting the length of the top link, and hold it there while you drive over high/low spots. Once I learned that trick from other guys on this site, I have not used my limit chains since.

George
 
I made some using turnbuckles, with a hook and eye set-up. The turnbuckles cost about $12 each. I then ran a chain around the lower control arms and ran a grade 8 bolt thru that. The turnbuckle allows you to adjust your "hog to just the position you want. I did mine because I had a slow hydro leak and didn"t want to tear it apart during mowing season.
 
top linc adjustable, have wheel on back of bushog thats adjustable, but how are you guys doing this? are you running chains from toplinc on tractor to lift hookup on bushog?
 
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