Chainsaw purchase: new or used?

[Rod Croskery]

I often buy used tools and have had good luck with them. It's time for a chain saw to replace a Husqvarna 51. Which is better these days, new or used? Examples?

 

[hanovertom]

I personally would never buy a used 2 stroke anything unless I knew the owner very well. It only takes running 1 time without mix to ruin.

 

[jokers]

Wouldn't it be obvious to Rod if the engine was damaged?

 

[Paul from MI]

I sure wouldn't pay much for a used saw that I didn't know a lot about. Having said that I'm using two saws I bought used, one four years ago and one 35 years ago. Both have run well and given little trouble. I knew both owners well and was sure they hadn't been abused. I wouldn't have much faith in anything I found at a dealer, most guys won't trade off a saw that runs good, they'll keep it for a spare.

 

[Russ from MN]

Not necessarily!

 

[WA-Hal]

I have tried to revive several used, nonrunning small chainsaws, but have not been very satisfied with any of them. Chainsaws work pretty hard while they are working, and then often sit for months without being started or used at all. Maybe I have been unlucky with the ones I worked on, but they were just plain worn out. And the parts I had to replace were really high.

A big saw might be different. Pro saws are supposed to be built better for longer life. But they can wear out too.

I wouldn't pay much for a used chainsaw unless I could start it cold without much trouble and do a few cuts with it to see how it works. I also would worry about one that was too old, since they quit stocking replacement parts after so many years. It would also be nice to know the saw's history and know how well it was taken care of. I would pay almost nothing for a non-running saw--there is probably a good reason.

The two chainsaws that I have bought new (Stihl 041S and a little Stihl) have always worked just great for me. The 041S has cut hundreds of cords of firewood and felled a lot of pine trees over the nearly 30 years since I bought it. I wore out the original bar, but the rest of the saw is still working just fine. I have taken good care of it. The little saw is only about 3 years old, and is mainly a trimming and limbing tool, so it really doesn't have that much time on it. Sure is handier than trying to use the big saw lots of times. I am not as young as I used to be!

When I no longer need my chain saws, I will give them to my Son. Hopefully they will continue to serve him a long time. We both know they are in great shape.

New saw or used saw? How much money? How much will you be using it? Does having a warranty really mean anything (especially if you will seldom use it)?

The best advice I ever received about chain saws was to always run the saw out of gas before storing it any length of time. I also always use real bar oil and the manufacturers specified mix oil. And I don't ever loan out my saws to anyone, ever. Good luck!

 

[OliLt]

If you know what you are looking at, used equipment can be a good value. Most of the used equipment I bought was cheap because it did not run. Cleaning and rebuilding the carb is all it took to fix it because it was stored with un-stabilized fuel. A compression check is an easy way to evaluate the condition of the piston and cylinder. 150 PSI is the standard for chainsaw engines. A spark tester will tell you if the ignition system is working. These are not comprehensive tests, but will give you a good idea about the condition of the engine. I generally look for commercial grade equipment that was only used by a home owner. Look at the manufacturers web site for the models you are interested in so you know what you are looking at when it comes along.

 

[Doug in Illinois]

First off, stay with a Husqvarna since you already have parts for it you can take off your old saw.

I have bought saws both ways. A good used Stihl is better than a brand new Walmart store Poulan or the like any day. Same with your Husky.

I can give you an example of a saw for sale at a local dealer. It was barely used, even though over 10 years old. Original owner bought it to clean up after an ice storm, put it away without proper storage, and it was all gummed up when they needed it again. Traded it for a new one, dealer carb kitted it, good as new now.

They are out there, just keep watching.

FYI, my current "big" saw is a Stihl MS310 I bought "used" off fleaBay. I figured something would be wrong with it having only "been used once", but was 30 day money back sale. Only issue was the kill switch, so am OK with that. DOUG

 

[RobMD]

If you get a worn out machine, you're paying more than what you paid for it.

If you get a new machine, you're discovering that it's a real piece of plastic schitt.

So, if you're having trouble with old saws and you hate the new saws, well then, I guess you've got yourself a problem. LOL

 

[Greyhorse]

If you can manage it a new pro saw either Husky or Stihl would be my choice.... Echo should be pretty good too.

 

[Dave 2N]

BINGO! to what greyhorse said below.

 

[atlarge54]

All four of my saws were purchased used and are just fine. Husky/J-red, Stihl, Dolmar/Makita, Efco or Echo all make good saws. Any brand makes some lower grade saws. Try to get a saw that the cyl can be removed from the case to service. Try arboristsite.com and visit the chainsaw forum---do some reading BEFORE you jump in with questions.

 

[tjiniowa]

I love my Dolmar 510, with 18" bar, bought it new for around $400 I think.

 

[jokers]

Really? How so?

 

[Ludwig]

I bought a Husky 445 in '08, its the top of the "prosumer" line. Its plenty for what I need though I probably should have stepped up to the 455 which is the bottom of the Pro line.
I really like the stratified charge engine, it starts easy, is quieter and doesn't gag me with 2 stroke smoke.

Supposedly Home Depot rents the Makita/Dolmar DCS 6401, 64cc and you can sometimes get them cheap where somebody has forgotten the oil and siezed it up. The big bore kit isn't terribly expensive and you end up with a big powerful saw for low money. I'm thinking of that route to make an Alaskan Mill...

 

[msb]

New Stihl would be my choice.Only a used one if it is guaranteed.Too many things could be wrong with a used one unless you really know what to look for.

 

[jokers]

Why a new "pro" saw when they cost a lot more than a farm saw?

 

[MattE]

Simply b/c they will cut circles around a farm saw.

Time is money after all and a good pro saw will last a light user a lifetime.

 

[CPR]

Yes, chainsaws are easy to diagnose. Roll the saw over by hand and feel for play or resistance in the bottom end. Do a compression test, 130+ is usually good, if no tester available, hang the saw from its starter, it should pay out cord very slowly. Lastly, pull the muffler and look in. Lean or no mix scoring always appears first at the exhaust port where everything is hottest. Look for scoring on the piston and inside the cylinder. No marks, no problem. Only thing you can"t test is for air leaks that would create a lean problem. On 95% of the saws out there, testing compression and popping the muffler for a look will take you 3 minutes and tell you a TON.
I've bought 2 saws new a Husky 141 and a 372, the other 30 or so were used.

arboristsite.com is a great resource and the search function will turn out more than you ever wanted to know.

 

[2 Cyl partsinfo]

It is your money but I'd only buy a used saw if there was a money back guarantee or you know the owner well. I bought a homeowner model Stihl and only use it a few times per year. Has already paid for itself. The dealer did tell me gasoline has a short shelf life today. I only mix a halh gallon at a time and run the saw empty after each use.

 

[jokers]

Matt,

Don't get the wrong idea, I wouldn't try to disuade someone from buying a pro saw if that's what they want, but far and away most users don't dedicate themselves to sharp chain, clean air filters, clean mufflers and a properly tuned carb, so just how much time/money is the average guy slinging a pro saw saving? Just how much of that valuable time is actually even potentially able to be saved and what is it worth? What about the exponential wear rate on the cutting components of a faster saw, is that expense justified to the average person cutting a year's firewood? Just curious 'cause I see a lot of guys parroting the "buy a pro saw" mantra and I'd like to understand the rationale.