Changing Tranny/Hydraulic Fluid Question

Hello Again. I am a new owner of my first 8N and after all the great advice I received here regarding my '48, I was able to get the garden in and now time for some routine service. I have looked through all the service manuals and have a good idea of the how, but have several questions and want to verify:
1. I know there are three drain holes for the tranny/hydraulics, two are 1 1/16" plugs and the other (rear) is a square plug, correct? Pic attached. I am going to use the Travelers brand mineral oil 90W as the replacement oil. How do you determine the level to fill. I think I read somewhere to take out the lower inspection plate cover bolt on the right and fill til it runs out, correct?
2. The oil bath air filter. I cleaned the bowl out and replaced with fresh motor oil. How do you remove the screen filter cartridge to wash in gas? Does it just pull out or is there a release?
3. Obviously the drain plug (also 1 1/16") for the engine is on the bottom of the oil pan and should be drained warm. Which grade oil would you recommend 10W-30?
4. Any particular grease for the grease fittings? I usually use a marine grade (blue lube)in my gun but would this be ok for this app or just normal joint lube?
Thanks again for all your help, really enjoying my tractor and this forum
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I believe all 3 plugs are the same to change the hydro fluid. Yes pull the bolt fill till it just starts coming out the hole. Mesh screens just pull out of the air cleaner. We use Rotella 15-40 in our 8ns for oil. Normal grease for the fittings.
 
a plain mild ep #2 gun grease is fine for the joints.

forthe engine. use an oil weight and grase based on your regional temps, usage, and the condition of your engine ( oil pressure ).

I've found I like 15w40 in just about all my tractors.

Yes. drain rear oil.. fill till it dribbles out the lowest bolt hole. compair to your dipstick.. make mental note.

ont he air cleaner. if you cant get the metal retainer out. just take the entire celaner off and clean in some mineral spirits.. or diesel..e tc. oil it back up.. reinstall..e tc.

don't forget to service the cooling system.. check belts and hoses. put a drop of oil in the genny oil cap.. if dry.. hit it with some wd40.. etc.

grease all fittings to push dirt and old grease out.

check front wheel bearings. repack..e tc.

good time to check steering box, adjust if needed and any available. fill with 0 or )) ep grease till it comes out unter steering wheel.

air up tires. check all lugnuts and axle nut.. repalce keeper if missing.

plugs gap at .025 front mount points at .015 a lil cam lobe lube will keep the rubbing block from wearing prematurely. also good time to clean up electrical connections. sand connection to chassis ground. coat with grease. clean up bat terminals and posts. coat with grease.. etc.. check cluthc free play.. adjust brakes ( star wheels )

lube ORC on pto shaft if present. check pto shaft for thrust play ( in / out ) and general bearing wear ( side play ).

also good time to check ot draglink and tie rod ends. universal grease boots are available in multi packs inthe 'HELP' section of most chain auto stores. a uni is not as good as an OE style. but better than a missing one.

oil fitler is a napa 101gold or fram c3 or c3p

plugs champion H12 ( 512 ) or H10. or autolite 437 or 216 amny prefer autolite.

i'm probably missing some general maint stuff. but that's enough of a list to keep ya busy for a afternoon...
 

. I know there are three drain holes for the tranny/hydraulics, two are 1 1/16" plugs and the other (rear) is a square plug, correct

You are correct.
 
H10 and 216 are too cold with unleaded gas.Using those will give much trouble with gas fouling on the spark plugs.
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:03 06/06/13)
. I know there are three drain holes for the tranny/hydraulics, two are 1 1/16" plugs and the other (rear) is a square plug, correct

You are correct.

Have a BIG bucket ready as you are about to release 5 gallons from the tractor!! I unscrew the smaller plug first then I unscrew one to the pump plate bolts to drain a little more.

Fill to the bottom of the inspection plate bolt.
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(quoted from post at 18:03:44 06/06/13)

oil fitler is a napa 101gold or fram c3 or c3p

Not to rag on ya, but the Napa oil filter is a 1010. Easiest for me to get, but a little pricey.
 
i'm just telling the guy the oem heat range so when he looks in the book and sees that heat range he won't think we are full of it.

i personally think if your machine is in top order.. even withthe cruddy gas we have. the oe heat range would go with it. however given that only a small % of these machiens are running on a full 'new' rebuild. the hotter heat range is sure needed.
 
i type on a tablet. typo's happen.

he could have crossed the c3 c3p and seen t he 1010.

i'll consider a post about a typo a rag. :(
 
Few catalogs mention the H10 now.When I bought my 640 the owner had just put new H10s in it.I drove it home about 14 miles.It ran fine never skipped.Around home it started fouling # 1 plug.Usually pulling the plug wire and letting it jump a gap would clear the plug.Put in a new set of H12s no more trouble.One day I was cleaning up an old fence putting the old wire and posts on the carryall.At one point I let the tractor idle too long.When I tried to start out I couldnt move, tractor had no power.Not even in first gear.While it idled ok,I couldnt get moving.I brought up the engine speed slowly until the skipping stopped.After a while I got moving and took the junk to the burn pile.I posted this information and found a fellow repeated it and said he didnt think it was true.I knew JD 2 cylinders were bad at plug fouling when used at light loads and now know that Fords can do it too.My tractor burns no oil and runs steady oil pressure hot or cold.It will not run right on H10s.I have tested gas fouled plugs with a Model T coil on the bench and found the sparks ran up the insulator nose in thin streams.It could not jump the gap.My experience tells me that H10s are bad news.
 
i've bought a couple / few machiens that had h10 or al 216 in them.

I actually have a few packs of each new after buying out a spark plug rack from a farm store changing out it's racks. i really only wanted the racks.. but the store owner said they weren't for sale he was gonna toss em when the clearanced plugs were sold out. I ended up buying every plug ont he rack for like 25 cents each.. then he let me have the double rack. champ on one side. al on the other.

was actually a good deal. had a bunch of d21 plugs i needed for a 2-popper in the barn..

in my fords I do usually run a 437 though..
 
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