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craer-HT

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ok i am restoring a 97 ym155d
the wiring was all "F" up so i found this wiring diagram online
and it worked for a wile i was charging at 13.5v
later i found out the generator was getting REALY!! hot even off
if i test the leads on the generator with a drill i can get up to 20v acv
but once connected to the tractor in the diagram nothing on the dc side
i have no clue if the voltage regulator is even working or how it does in this setup doesn't make sense
and i have a 3 wire voltage regulator
so..
1 is the wiring diagram Right?
2 is the generator working and wired right
3 is the voltage regulator working
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_2806.JPG" index="0"><s>[attachment=0]</s>IMG_2806.JPG<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>
thanks Guys...

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As you are getting 20 volts from the alternator. The problem points to the regulator. The easiest way to test is to take a voltage reading with the ignition off directly from the battery terminals. Then repeat with the engine running at approx. 1500rpm. You should see an increase in voltage up to about 13 -13.5 volts. If no increase the problem is with the regulator. I am not familiar with the regulator on the 155, but I am sure the more learned members of the forum will be able to help.

Mike
 
"i found out the generator was getting REALY!! hot even off"

I would address this issue for starters.
 
One I want to say thank you for everybody's help. So yes I had it wired 100% to the diagram shown. Fired it up and I was getting 13 1/2 V at 2000 RPM. A week goes by as I finish restoring the tractor. But the whole time I had the battery disconnected. I install the battery about a week ago and the next day the battery is completely dead. I also want to note the battery is brand-new I bought it for the tractor of month ago. So I had it sitting on the charger. Still attached to the tractor. An hour goes by in the Chargers not done but I smell some hot wires. Found out my generator was hot enough to cook a steak on. I thought I wired the generator wrong. But knowing AC current it shouldn't matter. It shows in the diagram I should have a Redwire but I have to yellows. Tried flopping the wires and still nothing. So now I get voltage out of the generator but I don't get charging voltage out of the voltage regulator. Did order regulator and going to install it but I'm not sure if the wiring is correct. It is very hard to find information for 155 d online. I happened to stumble across that diagram on another form. And it looks to me to be correct. I really want to keep everything original. I'm even leaving the dance for the three point hit the rear fenders. I want character in it <E>:)</E>. So I don't want to put an alternator retrofitted on. I don't know if anyone has any other ideas but I'm in a try the voltage regulator when I get it in. Still haven't received a tracking number from you guys though. I just don't want to fry this new one if there's a problem with the generator. Again thanks!!
 
"I install the battery about a week ago and the next day the battery is completely dead. "

You have a short to ground somewhere, which only you and your volt/ohm meter can find. I would determine that before sacrificing a new VR.
 
if the dynamo(generator)gets hot and discharges the battery,you have a faulty or wrong regulator,grounded stator winding in the dynamo,or wrong wiring-letting the battery discharge through the stator winding.I refurbished the dynamo on my 1500 and the insulators on the ends of the 3 stator coils had distorted with age and fallen off,letting the coils move around and come close to grounding out-made new insulators from a piece of fiberglass circuit board
 
Yes i think its the right regulator. It ad a 3 wire one so i got the same My gen had 3 wiers 2 yellow and 1 red the yellows where the point leeds and red a ground for something. But i remove the red. I will check out the groud prob. I rewired the hole thing and got new lights and ignition. I will let you know what i find. Again thank you everybody

37040_0e8526a066fa5987c6e7d289b00ada91.jpg
 
So I don't see any shorts. I sent my Voltmeter. To conductivity. I got no beeps anywhere but the starter. Tell me if this is normal. Black lead to ground. Red lead to sarter lead on solenoid i got a beep. And on trigger wire at solenoid i got a beep. To remove the solenoid from the starter. I tested the selenides lead separately and still got a beep. As well as the same two points on the solenoid bench testing it. But this would mean it would only be grounded out when the starter is engaged. I don't think that was the problem. Here's a photo of my generator after I remove the Redwire. I don't know what the purpose of these 4 points are in it?? But I did remove the brackets they are sitting on an insulated them with rubber grommets. Is there anyway to bench test a voltage regulator.

37040_65af692c3ee47e2b98cf80c81cf92db4.jpg
 
In post #1 you stated with a drill you are getting 20ac volts out of your dynamo. That would indicate your dynamo should match with the 4 wire regulator that has the diodes in it.

The 3 wire regulator is to match with the dynamo that has the diodes in it. At least that is the way I read Hoye's instructions. I am probably not understanding correctly.

I don't even claim to understand the picture showing the dynamo wires. Supposing that is wired back as original?
 
Yeah I have no idea. Why got it it had a three wire regulator. The entire tractor was wired completely different compared to the wiring diagram above. For example. One lead of the generator was running to the thermal injector. The charging system didn't work and that's why decided to completely redo it. Yes there's two leads coming from the back of the generator. Each one goes to the point on the back of the generator than that goes to another point then out to the lead wires to go to the track. Yes I can spend my generator with the drill around 2000 RPM I get about 14+ Volts. If i max out the drill to about 2700 RPM I can get 20 Volts. My generator does look identical to the one for the three wire voltage regulator. I load tested the tractor just pulling 0 Amps just sitting there. I'm pretty confident that it's something to do with either the generator or the voltage regulator. Or possibly the way I have it wired. Don't quite understand when you convert AC DC in this type of application. One lead of the regulator goes to the generator. The other lead goes to a key on hot. And the other leader the generator goes to a Ponson hot connected to the starter. And of course the ground wire is grounded on the regulator. Are these points in the back of the generator the diodes ? And if so does that mean I need the other regulator (the 4 wire one)? Lastly I want to note is I believe the starter and solenoid are new. Or at least looks that way. Yes I know even new parts could be faulty. They're very shiny and clean even before I cleaned the tractor
 
With pos. batt. lead disconnected check for continuity between the pos. lead connector and ground. If battery is discharging there has to be a short. Begin disconnecting stuff in sequence until you lose continuity.
 
I will try when i get home from work. I have the generator and the voltage regulator disconnected out of the tractor at the moment. The battery is hooked up normally and I was seeing if it would discharge overnight. Still haven't checked it yet was going to check it when I get home. I don't think there's a problem with my wiring unless there's a problem with the voltage regulator or the generator. If the battery isn't discharged when I get home I will install them both back in and do that test. I will keep you up-to-date thank you
 
I have been thing about your problem.

I would try a few simple tests: When you have reinstalled the alternator and the regulator, disconnect the battery positive lead and then reconnect it, if there is a spark you have a short somewhere. Next remove the fuses and replace each one in turn with the ignition on and off, this will indicate which circuit is the problem if you get a spark when you reinsert the fuses. Have you a work light on the rear mud guard (fender), this or the wiring as the on off switch is on the lamp, and has caused problems on other YM tractors.

Winston is right if you are getting good voltage from the alternator the problem is with the regulator. I have just thought if the alternator did not get hot when you tested it on your drill, the short must be else where.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
the dymamo pictured in reply#9 is different from the one in my late '75 built 1500:the dynamo pictured has 4 diodes built in for unregulated DC output(though the way the wires are connected at the diodes,you will have AC output on the yellow wires)on my 1500's system the dynamo is AC output with the regulator/rectifier doing the ac-dc conversion.Depending on if either of the diode heatsinks in the pictured dynamo are grounded,could be getting a current drain through those...Not really sure what regulation method would be used on a DC output dynamo,but most likely just a cut-out type regulator to open the circuit when voltage is high enough.
 
Ok this is what i got. Got home and tested continuity as you guys said. Tested several ground points and got nothing. I reinstalled the generator and voltage regulator. And repeated the process and got nothing again. I still only get battery voltage. I also tested continuity with ignition on and off. So those four points in the generator are diodes is that correct. Do they look wired right and what exactly do they do. I bench tested the generator once more wile in the tractor and running at max rpm i was getting 24-25 volts a/c. I'm really really lost with this project and I appreciate everybody's help. I still haven't heard back about my voltage regulator I ordered I'm hoping to get it soon and try it out. Everything is hooked back up at the moment the way it should be. I started the tractor Several times and shut it off. It's been about 30 minutes in the generator is not getting hot. So I don't know what happened that time
 
the diodes are doing nothing the way they are wired now-originally the diodes were connected as a "bridge rectifier"circuit,putting out ~20-24vDC at maximum engine RPM. The diode wiring can stay as it is now if you use an AC input rectifier/regulator-if you cannot find an original type,many motorcycle or small air-cooled engine rectifier regulators will work great with the 24-25 v AC you are getting out of your generator-I have often used regulator meant for onan 18hp opposed twin in these situations.
 
the way diodes are connected now is actually mostly right-just the two yellow AC output wires have been added,and probably a DC output wire has been removed-would have connected to the diode plate insulated from the generator body and connected to a cutout regulator or other charge regulating method.The other diode plate likely was (is?)screwed directly to the generator body for the negative polarity
 
That sounds pretty much how it was. Is there way you can draw a little picture something to show me how it should be wired. I was just confused because I have two yellows. I did remove a red that went to the diode body.

This is the way it was before I don't Redwire and insulated all diode plates.

37040_2a9f53aae9910400c7027271165684d0.jpg
 
Ok still very confused. I purchased a brand-new Generator three wire regulator style. And a brand-new voltage regulator three wire style. Installed them and it worked great at 13.6vdc. Took my kids for a ride for 10 minutes. Came back tested the voltage again. And got 12.3vdc. I have no idea what's going on
 
OK, was 13.6 the charging voltage read at the battery, or the battery voltage, not running? Same question for 12.3 volt reading. If 13.6 was chargintg voltage and 12.3 was static, non-running voltage, what was battery voltage before charging? Apparently heat problem, (short), has disappeared.
 
With tractor off I get normal battery voltage about 12+volts

When I first installed the new parts and started the tractor i got 13.5ish and was excited it was working. I took the kids for 10 minutes 15 minute ride. Came back and tested it again while still running and got battery voltage 12volts <E>:(</E>
If I start the tractor remove the battery while running I still get about 12 V from the generator testing at battery leads. If I read it up at max RPM i can get 12.9 ish. All wiring is brand-new including lights ignition and switches. I tested for shorts and found nothing. The new generator is color wired differently
Instead of having a red and yellow wire. I have a blue and red wire. I suspect the blue substitutes for the yellow. And that's the way it is.
 
Are you sure fan belt is tight,, (weak charging), and all connections are clean and tight? All you can do is start back at square 1 with troubleshooting. Was working properly, with no heat-up, (so you can assume correct hook-up).
 
If the dynamo was unplugged and you had both probes of your meter touching both wires on the dynamo and only got 12.7-13 ac volts then your dynamo is evidently bad.
 
<QUOTE author="craer"><s>
</s>Did that to and get 12.7-13.0 volts Ac i just dont see how likely is is that its bad<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

If what you say is fact, your alt. is bad, assuming belt is NOT loose. I would re-install old alt. and make same test.
 
You forgot that it has diodes,and puts out DC. Your old one is wired wrong,someone screwed it all up.
Put it back together,and try it again.(With the battery!!!)
 
<QUOTE author="Barry"><s>
</s>You forgot that it has diodes,and puts out DC. Your old one is wired wrong,someone screwed it all up.
Put it back together,and try it again.(With the battery!!!)<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

OOPS!!! good catch, (Winston threw me off <E>:wink:</E> ) should be reading 20-30 DC volts at the alternator, and not even be checking for AC voltage. If you got parts from Hoye, go through proper channels and assure you got correct, matching parts, and why different colored dynamo wires.
 
No doubt, I need to shut up. I do see you could have a dynamo with recitifiers or without. I don't understand why Hoye would send you a mismatched set? I'll butt out and listen for the conclusion to this. <E>:oops:</E>
 
Yes it does have diodes. They did send me the wrong dynamo at first. Normally I'm very good with electrical. But very confused on how the AC to DC works with it all hooked up testing out the battery I still only get battery voltage about 12.5-12.9 v dc. While tractors running at 2000+ rpm and belt is very tight. I thought the voltage regulator converted to DC. I get home off of work I will try it with DC at the Dynamo skin for all the help.
 
Ok so testing the Dynamo at the dynamos pigtail. Multi meter on DC volts. Engine running at max RPM. About 2500. Dynamo was pushing a little over 14 Vdc. What's my next step
 
<QUOTE author="craer"><s>
</s>Ok so testing the Dynamo at the dynamos pigtail. Multi meter on DC volts. Engine running at max RPM. About 2500. Dynamo was pushing a little over 14 Vdc. What's my next step<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

If one can believe what you say, that's a bad dynamo. I would install and test the old one; however at one time you did say it was putting out 20vac, (with rectifier), but 13.5v at the battery, which would have had to also be ac voltage, (no rectifier in reg.), so . . . . . .
 
No i am getting 13.5 vilts (DC) at the Dynamo.
I am getting 12.5 volts (DC) at the battery
Both when engine is running

Please note. I have a three wire voltage regulator
Which means my Dynamo contains diodes built into it
 
I was referring to the old dynamo, which may or may not be good. If the new one is only actually putting out 13.5 volts dc, it is bad. If the old one is putting out 20 volts dc, it is good.
 
The older One i dont believe is good anymore either. It was nnalerted up on my God it just abandoning it. So if I understand right. My Dynamo should be putting out around 20 V DC is that correct. Is there anyway to test the voltage regulator. Which is also brand-new installed the same time, the Dynamo was. Once again thank you for all the help
 
<QUOTE author="craer"><s>
</s>The older One i dont believe is good anymore either. It was nnalerted up on my God it just abandoning it. So if I understand right. My Dynamo should be putting out around 20 V DC is that correct. Is there anyway to test the voltage regulator. Which is also brand-new installed the same time, the Dynamo was. Once again thank you for all the help<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
. . around 20vdc to around 30vdc. Can't check the regulator nor do you need to. with good reg., you are working, with bad you are not.
 
I'm getting in on this conversation a few years too late. Does anyone know if the Dynamo should produce power from both of the wires coming from it.

Thanks
 
what is the model of generator fitted, there are 2, what are the colours of the wires from the generator, there is an early and late wiring diagram, and none of them match the later model of generator which requires the 4 wire regulator, the later one produces pure AC voltage and must be rectified to DC then regulated to be usable, if you have the wrong regulator, or any of the diodes are damaged the battery will discharge through te generator
 
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