Clear paint vs. lacquer??

[Greenfrog]

On some of my restoration projects, I like to clear coat some of the new bolts and nuts so as not to discolor. I usually use some clear paint. The other day I happen to get a can of clear lacquer by mistake. (I am talking spray cans here) I used it anyway on a few places. Which is best? How should lacquer be used? I really kind of like the way it covers and looks when done. Any discussion on this? (Odor is not a bad either)

 

[Greenfrog]

Let me add a bit more to my own post........

What should I use as a clear coat? What brands? What works best? I have had some problems with the solvents in the clear coats reacting with the underlying paints?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Thirty to forty years ago lacquer finishes were very common. They are easy to use and dry fast. The fact that they dry fast is especially appealing for people which have to paint in poor conditions where dust and bugs are likely to get into the paint. The draw back is they are better used over lacquer paint in which the strong solvents are designed to soak into and re-wet the paint it is covering. When used over enamel the strong solvents in the lacquer clear can soak into and lift the enamel off like putting paint and varnish remover on it. Even using lacquer clear over lacquer paint the finish is not as durable as most other clear coatings. If you talk to any paint and body guy they will tell you to stay away from lacquer today and any retail rattle can stuff. It just won't last and when it fails you have a mess trying to fix it.

As far as the smell. You should be wearing a chemical respirator. Paint is harder on a person than cigarettes.

If you talk to six different painters, you will probably get six different brands so I won't go there. Regardless of brand I like a urethane clear coat.

 

[El Toro]

I used yellow lacquer on the moldboard plow and rims on this Farmall A back in 1975-1976. Our paint shop gave me some leftover paint that they were going to discard. I used an old Devilbiss spray gun. Hal

 

[CNKS]

Lacquer is the worst paint you can use, clear or otherwise. Either paint them with the same paint you used on the tractor, or clear coat them with something else. I have rattle can clear coated a few nuts and bolt heads, but not with lacquer. They have held up well, but the tractor is inside 99% of the time. I wouldn't recommend it over large areas. Probably best to use a urethane lacquer out of a spray gun. Remember you are using it without primer or any base coat under it, it was not designed that way so you are on your own.

 

[showcrop]

If you want your clear coat to stick to new plated fasteners, etch them first with a dip of about two minutes in acid. Phosphoric is readily available and I have found that it works well for this. Rinse it off well before they dry or you may get some white residue.

 

[DScott]

I have used Eastwood's Diamond Clear and it has held up good. It is fuel resistant and is OK up to 300 degrees ( the Extreme Diamond Clear is OK up to 600 degrees). I have used it on brass parts after I rebuild carbs and other bare metal to keep it from tarnishing/rusting. Also, it does not yellow after awhile like some of the cheap clear I have used before. It comes in aerosol and brush on (I use both).
Eastwood also has several other types of clear coat finishes depending on what kind of paint or finish you are trying to clear and what results you are looking for.

 

[DScott]

(quoted from post at 19:02:16 01/29/12)
If you want your clear coat to stick to new plated fasteners, etch them first with a dip of about two minutes in acid. Phosphoric is readily available and I have found that it works well for this. Rinse it off well before they dry or you may get some white residue.

I agree. I have not used acid to etch with but I do lightly glass bead blast them and it makes a big difference. Paint goes on and sticks much better. I think that some of that plating is so slick that the paint can't get a grip on the metal.

 

[Red Ford]

Most paint/lacquer needs to be applied to primer. Adhesion is poor when applied to bare metal. So, no ordinary paint is going to last well as you are using it. There are all sorts of coatings that are good for fasteners, some of those are:
- E-coat
- Plating with cad, nickel, zinc, chrome, etc
- Coating with zinc phosphate, magnesium phosphate, iron phosphate
- Ceramic coating
- Painting after assembly