Clutch adjustments

Nimrod77

Member
so I’ve adjust clutch all over the place. It’s all new components. Still grinding into gear. No matter how close I have it to what my manual says has anyone had this issue? I adjusted the fingers even 9/32 too tight and it still does the same thing what am I missing? Any other thoughts? Would it be appreciated? Thank you.
 
Most of those had a brass bushings instead of a pilot bearing. That could be the culprit if it's binding up.
 
I think bushing or release bearing... "All new components" meaning what? Give us a list of what was replaced. Also, fleetline 88? Super 88? What's the serial number?

I'm assuming your clutch pedal free play is adjusted correctly as well.
 
It does not have a serial number plate over the years it got ripped off I guess it’s just a regular 88 row crop. 1954.
So I got new clutch discs new pressure plate. The shaft is tight going into the splines. I adjusted pedal play as manual says. 1”. And 3/4 free travel before touching. Still seems grinding to get into gear. Sometimes have to shut tractor off to get into gear.
 
It does not have a serial number plate over the years it got ripped off I guess it’s just a regular 88 row crop. 1954.
So I got new clutch discs new pressure plate. The shaft is tight going into the splines. I adjusted pedal play as manual says. 1”. And 3/4 free travel before touching. Still seems grinding to get into gear. Sometimes have to shut tractor off to get into gear.
My first guess would be your splines. They should be lose enough to slide a little by them selves. Also a 1954 could be a super.
 
only time I've ever had that happen was when I put a clutch disc in backwards, in my defense it was labeled incorrectly and it was my double disc clutch job, I had the rear one in correctly but the front disc was backward
 
I’ll double check disk. Thought single it did t matter. And clean splines up so it travels smoothly. Then put engine back In and see if anything changed. Anyone adjust the. Fingers? If so. 9/32 like manual says?
 
Make sure the drive shaft turns smoothly and freely in the pilot before you even put the clutch back in.
 
I’ll double check disk. Thought single it did t matter. And clean splines up so it travels smoothly. Then put engine back In and see if anything changed. Anyone adjust the. Fingers? If so. 9/32 like manual says?
Yes, I bought a new clutch from here... It didn't have any info in box, family member said you better adjust it, so I called them and he sent me an email and I adjusted it. Still working on other parts to get this back together on the 58'. 880 diesel GG Wes
 
Yes, I bought a new clutch from here... It didn't have any info in box, family member said you better adjust it, so I called them and he sent me an email and I adjusted it. Still working on other parts to get this back together on the 58'. 880 diesel GG Wes
Parts of clutch set ups may vary, based on the tractor they are used in. A pressure plate or clutch disc for example could be used in a few different machine clutches. Adjustment methods and settings could be different for each machine; therefore, I would not expect the box to have the adjustment procedure and settings for the machine I was working on, in the box. I would go by what the tractor's service manual, or a service bulletin for it, has for clutch information.
 
I’ll double check disk. Thought single it did t matter. And clean splines up so it travels smoothly. Then put engine back In and see if anything changed. Anyone adjust the. Fingers? If so. 9/32 like manual says?
Reducing your pedal free play to 1/4 inch will give more throw on release levers. Those early tractors didn't have a spring loaded clutch plate. Might look at old disk and see if the hub is different on flywheel side. If you don't have a belt pulley can replace clutch without removing engine. Also was the yoke for the release bearing removed? It can get put in backward if you had it apart.
 
Parts of clutch set ups may vary, based on the tractor they are used in. A pressure plate or clutch disc for example could be used in a few different machine clutches. Adjustment methods and settings could be different for each machine; therefore, I would not expect the box to have the adjustment procedure and settings for the machine I was working on, in the box. I would go by what the tractor's service manual, or a service bulletin for it, has for clutch information.
Thanks for sharing. I hope I followed the instructions deep enough. I used the end of my caliper dial gauge to check the spring "frogs" protrusion like he shared me.
That's what this forum is for, great information! GG Wes
 
Yes yoke was removed. There’s an idea
Any pics of front vs back?
Goes on like this
Edited. Sorry, I misunderstood. Thought you were looking for clutch disc picture.
 

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i'm guessing you had a problem and decided the clutch was it. If you had the right parts and did it right it should be smooth. You didn't list a throw out bearing, is there not one? If there is and you didn't replace it, bummer. I've done a few clutches long time ago. What you are describing is a bad clutch, yours is new.
 
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