Clutch Disengagement

[TB in MN]

My 9N sat garaged for a couple years before I reassembled the rear end after repairing various issues. Before I tore it down the clutch properally disengaged in order to shift into gear.

Ever since I reassembled the tractor I am unable to shift into gear from nuetral because the transmission is spinning (clutch is not completely disengaging). Instead, I shift into gear by starting the tractor in third gear (with the brakes on) rather than nuetral. This keeps the transmission from spinning and allows me to shift from third to the gear of my choosing.

I have played with the threaded adjustment that controls the pedal height to no avail.

1. I dont plan to split the tractor before winter but what is the likely correct fix for my problem?

2. Is there a bandaid I can apply without splitting the tractor? I've read posts about spraying carbuerator cleaner through the starter opening. Also applying talcom powder to the clutch plates(Where do I apply, or does this require a split?). Will either of these items help my symption?

3. Someone recently suggested it is a good idea to block the clutch pedal down if the tractor is going to sit unused for more than a couple days. This sounds extreme. Does it do that much good?

Thank you,
TB

 

[souNdguy]

I almost didn't reply as you don't seem to want to hear the answer, based on #3 in your post, thinking that this is 'extreme' is a tad odd...

would you believe some tractor manufacturers provide you with a wood block on a string for blocking clutches when the tractor will be setting up? My NH 1920 did.. as many others do.

also.. if you can start it in gear, sound slike you have disabled the neutral safety interlock mechanical start switch. not a smart idea.

if your clutch is properly adjusted, but dragging, I'd say the disc is wet with trans fluid and sticking...

a spray down with carb cleaner and making sure it is not overfull will help. also make sur ehte bellhousing drain is open.. lastly...

BLOCK YER CLUTCH when not planning on using her.

soundguy

 

[Jim Phillips]

I thought the 9N didn't have a neutral safety interlock?

 

[TB in MN]

Soundguy,
I appriciate your response and dont mind hearing the answer of #3 just never heard of blocking the clutch before. I'd like to understand what is beneficial aboout blocking the clutch.

If my tractor has a neutral safety interlock mechanical start switch it was disabled by someone other than me.

The trans fluid was overfilled by a helper which I drained to the level of the bottom bolt on the inspection port when I became aware.

Meanwhile, I will take your advice start blocking my clutch.

Thank you

 

[BillM (OH)]

Well, if you can start it in gear with the brakes on, it's just sticking, not stuck solid. You may be able to do the brake cleaner trick and then let it slip (may polish off the oil, may not) a good bit when you start it in gear and it may free up. And blocking it down when parked is a must.

 

[souNdguy]

blocking the clutch is a common , no, very common 'fix' for preventing sticky or stuck clutches. again.. many manufacturers build in the ability to do this or provide external means to do so.

the ide is to keep the clutch from either rusting up to the media, or from oil making it drad or stick ( disc can swell from oil as well... )

very early 9n did not have an interlock.. is yours one of these very early models?

soundguy

 

[souNdguy]

only very, very early models didn't. they would have had a dash switch, past that, there was a thumb button that pushed a mechanical linkage thru the base of the steering column to the starter switch aft of the column.

soundguy

 

[TB in MN]

late 1945... not very early.

TB

 

[souNdguy]

then it's a 2n, not a 9n, AND it came with a safety mechanically interlocked start switch on the tranny top / steering column base, and pushed a start switch ont he back side of the steering column.

soundguy