Clutch issue

[fairlandfarmvt]

I've got a Case 530CK with the dry clutch that I had split (long story - ended up with the engine from one tractor on the back half from another). Anyway, the engine turns easily (and ran great before becoming part of franken-tractor) and continues to turn easily until the bell housing is about 1/4" from being fully attached to the back of the engine. Once you tighten that last 1/4" the engine becomes really hard to turn. Rolled it back apart and it turns fine and there is no obvious sign of where something might be hitting.

The front half was a Case 530CK and I don't know for sure what the back half was (might have been a 430 and not sure whether it was a CK or AG tractor - the castings and parts in the torque tube are the same according to the books online), but I'm using the flywheel and clutch that came from the back half. This mix and match shouldn't matter based on looking at what part #s were used on the 430/530 AG and 530CK.

Any ideas of what else to check? I'm about to go back out and try putting it together with the pressure plate and clutch disc removed to see if it still binds up (I bet it won't). Scratching my head here!

 

[DKase]

Welcome to the forum, Is this that footwear fella?
Sounds like it could be a pilot bearing issue. I would start by measuring everything up from the bell housing surfaces for length and clearance, do not forget the splines for length. Then measure the diameters of all the parts that fit. Clutch disk fit on the spline would be a good place to check while off the engine. I have had engines that I have had to turn while tightening the last inch or so to get together without binding. Good luck DK

 

[casecollectorsc]

Did you put the disk in correctly...hub out?

 

[tomturkey]

We had that with a IH 986? DUH we had the clutch disk in backwards. gobble

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I haven?t done a clutch on 530CK but have on early 430 and several 00B series. The pics are an older tractor not identical to your 530 but just for orientation if you have the internal hydraulic pump in the torque tube.

In mating the block and bell housing when you get to the position in the pic, the drive shaft end is started in the pilot bearing and in mesh with the friction disc splines. At this point you need to have very good alignment and turn the engine to get the hydraulic pump drive shaft splines in mesh with the pressure plate splines. If they are not in mesh and you close up using the fasteners the end of the hydraulic pump shaft will impact and deform the pressure plate hub and in turn the friction disc hub into the flywheel binding the crank.

The deformation of the pressure plate hub and to a lesser extent the friction disc hub is permanent unless pressed back to original shape. What I am saying (IF THIS IS YOUR SITUATION???) even if you now get everything in mesh, do the mating successfully w/o reshaping or replacing these items the clutch will be engaged but will not disengage.

Joe

 

[fairlandfarmvt]

Joe and others - thank you! I came to the conclusion that what Joe describes is EXACTLY what happened - bound the hyd pump shaft up into the back of the pressure plate, deformed it, and the friction disc a is a little bent too. Determined this by making the measurements suggested by another poster here and laying them on a thick, flat piece of steel in my shop.

Lesson learned! New pressure plate ordered, trying to figure out if I can re-use my disc.