Clutch release sleeve on Super C does not stay in place

[ER23]

I am restoring a Super C and have found that the clutch release sleeve (the one that the throwout bearing carrier rides on) does not stay in place and can travel backwards into the bell housing (see pictures). Does anybody know what is supposed to hold it in place? You can see in the pictures that it is not tight to the hole so it cannot be press fitted unless something is missing...

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Thank you for any help!

 

[Mrfred54]

Should be press fit. I have seen it before and I would puncture wound punch the casting and the
tube to snug it up and then brass it to the casting.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

No offense, but it looks like a good 1/8" gap all around the tube. I don't think you're going to be able to stake that with a punch.

 

[used red MN]

Hello ER welcome to YT. The proper repair would be to
swap out the ..torque tube.. meaning that whole cast
piece between the engine and transmission. You could
see if the bore that it is supposed to press into is wore
fairly concentric to its original position then have a
machine shop turn a spacer bushing to press on the
tube. The problem I think you will find is that the worn
ID of that bore is not really acceptable to hold the tube
straight with the shaft. A rigid hone may be able to
help ..square.. the bore but there is no way to hold the
hone in the proper position. If it is at all possible to get
a nut or nuts on the back side of those holes my fix
would involve a plate bolted to those holes and then
the tube welded to that. It would take quite a bit of
..guess and by golly.. to get it to work. Then not sure
that it may just be a problem that wears things funny in
the future causing the need to replace the T tube at a
later date anyway.

 

[Jim Becker]

(quoted from post at 11:37:14 09/11/23) . . . A rigid hone may be able to help ..square.. the bore but there is no way to hold the hone in the proper position. . . .

ou might have a chance if the hole should be exactly centered between the two other holes. They would give you a workable reference point and maybe a way to position a fixture. But i don't know if centered between those holes is even the right place.

 

[Janicholson]

Take the sleeve out, make a sheet metal shim to wrap around it, (or a tube turned or expanded to fit around it tightly. Braze that shim to the end of the sleeve where it enters the casting. Make it thicker than the gap so it just doesn't fit. Grind or turn the OD of the shim to press fit into the oversize casting hole. If you are lathe friendly, a new sleeve could be made to have a fatter end to fit the casting and smaller for the TO bearing carrier to slide on with .020 inch clearance. Jim

 

[wore out]

Is it possible that someone swapped an incorrect piece of tubing in there?

Here's the ''spec's'' (IF correct) from a competitor's website... 1.470" O.D., 5.067" long, 1.280" I.D..


If it IS the correct part and fits that loosely it would be a simply matter to make a tube with an oversized end on the lathe, which should work well IF the hole in the casting is not worn out of round or is not concentric with the pilot shaft.

 

[ER23]

Thank you everyone for the helpful information and suggestions!

I have confirmed that the sleeve has the expected OD (1.47") and have measured the ID of the hole in the housing as approximately 1 5/8" in diameter. So 5/32" of gap between them.

I plan to implement an idea from this thread and will report back on progress.

Thanks again!

 

[ER23]

Hello ER welcome to YT. The proper repair would be to
swap out the ..torque tube.. meaning that whole cast
piece between the engine and transmission. You could
see if the bore that it is supposed to press into is wore
fairly concentric to its original position then have a
machine shop turn a spacer bushing to press on the
tube. The problem I think you will find is that the worn
ID of that bore is not really acceptable to hold the tube
straight with the shaft. A rigid hone may be able to
help ..square.. the bore but there is no way to hold the
hone in the proper position. If it is at all possible to get
a nut or nuts on the back side of those holes my fix
would involve a plate bolted to those holes and then
the tube welded to that. It would take quite a bit of
..guess and by golly.. to get it to work. Then not sure
that it may just be a problem that wears things funny in
the future causing the need to replace the T tube at a
later date anyway.

I'm in the midst of implementing your suggestion of bolting a plate into the holes. However, those holes originally had the throwout bearing return springs going through them. My springs are in rough shape and are not going to fit in the new configuration regardless. Does anybody know whether simply leaving out the springs is going to make a major difference?

 

[caterpillar guy]

the pedal will not come up to the top and let the throw out bearing drag on the pressure plate or just ride enough to wear out the bearing. New generic springs could be had at a hardware store for the close to correct length then modify what is needed to hold one.

 

[used red MN]

Oops! Made a mistake. Nothing to add at the moment.

 

[560Dennis]

I wonder what else is loose that made the sloppiness in the housing ?

 

[used red MN]

Maybe fashion some type of hooks out of heavy wire that hook around the center cast part that has the holes in it the spring originally went through. I am not sure what back side of that section looks like in the terms of it having any ledges etc. to hook the springs on to stay. If needed you could use the heavy wire to may a large sort of U shape that rests behind the cast center an gives you a hook on both top and bottom for a spring. Again I do not know what the access is to the back side of that center cast area. If you could get a drill in there maybe you could drill 2 shallow holes one top, one bottom to hook the end of a spring hook in.

 

[ER23]

We have fashioned a plate, welded the sleeve to it, and bolted it into the bell housing. So far this approach seems to be working. We wound up using springs from the hardware store.

 

[Janicholson]

Thank you kindly for following up on this issue. Looks like a nice permanent repair. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Absolutely, thank you for the report. Hopefully, it is centered well and the input shaft does not drag on the I D of the tube. The problem is the shaft only finds it true running center when it fits into the pilot bearing in the flywheel when the tractor is slid back together. Looks good otherwise!