Gear grinding new clutch

[Jmoody]

Hi guys. I just completed a clutch replacement on a Farmall Super A. Replaced clutch, pilot bushing, throw out bearing and new bearing carrier (replaced original graphite bearing). Initially the clutch rod and yoke were making contact with clutch finger adjust screws when fully depressing clutch pedal so I adjusted a little. I know there are mixed views on whether fingers come pre set, but just sharing this step as FYI in case it could have anything to do with my new problem. The new problem that I have now is that when I start the tractor and try to shift into gear from a stationary position (with clutch disengaged) there is an awful gear grind. However if I shift into gear with tractor off and then start the tractor with clutch pedal down, then I can release the clutch and drive and depress clutch to stop tractor movement, so I know it is not a stuck clutch I understand that it is not a synchronized transmission and takes slight pause to shift, but that does not seem to be my issue because even on first shift and with plenty of shift delay, there is continuous grind When attempting a shift. Welcome any analysis ideas. One thought I have is that when I press the clutch, even though the clutch is disengaging, possibly the clutch shaft is stuck on the pilot bushing and still spinning? I was thinking that if while tractor was running in neutral and clutch depressed by a helper, I could look up at the clutch adjustment inspection hole and see if the clutch shaft is spinning (which I assume it should not spin when clutch is disengaged by pressing clutch pedal) which might support the idea of clutch shaft is being grabbed by pilot bushing and spinning. I don’t have any other ideas. Welcome thoughts and ideas, seems like I should be able to somehow diagnose without re-splitting, even though I may go there in the end. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions. Jim

 

[Janicholson]

If the clutch driven disk got a little bent when mating the tractor together, the disc can rub on both the P Plate, and the Flywheel, On opposite edges. If the pilot bushing was lubed when installed, and not tight on the Shaft snout, that should be OK. What is the pedal freeplay? Jim

 

[Mrfred54]

How much free play do you have. If too much you could be just on the verge of releasing the clutch that it will disengage when starting in gear but have enough drag on the clutch that you can't shift when starting in neutral. One to two inches of free play should be plenty for your tractor. Don't know for sure what the exact spec is but one inch should be fine

 

[Jmoody]

I don’t have hardly any pedal free play. That is one last adjustment I need to make, didn’t think that would / could have that impact. I will make that adjust tomorrow. I know this should be an inch or so of free play.

 

[Janicholson]

I don’t have hardly any pedal free play. That is one last adjustment I need to make, didn’t think that would / could have that impact. I will make that adjust tomorrow.

It won't help the grinding, but the TO bearing needs to be away from the fingers to allow full PP pressure, and TO bearing life.

 

[rustred]

Hi guys. I just completed a clutch replacement on a Farmall Super A. Replaced clutch, pilot bushing, throw out bearing and new bearing carrier (replaced original graphite bearing). Initially the clutch rod and yoke were making contact with clutch finger adjust screws when fully depressing clutch pedal so I adjusted a little. I know there are mixed views on whether fingers come pre set, but just sharing this step as FYI in case it could have anything to do with my new problem. The new problem that I have now is that when I start the tractor and try to shift into gear from a stationary position (with clutch disengaged) there is an awful gear grind. However if I shift into gear with tractor off and then start the tractor with clutch pedal down, then I can release the clutch and drive and depress clutch to stop tractor movement, so I know it is not a stuck clutch I understand that it is not a synchronized transmission and takes slight pause to shift, but that does not seem to be my issue because even on first shift and with plenty of shift delay, there is continuous grind When attempting a shift. Welcome any analysis ideas. One thought I have is that when I press the clutch, even though the clutch is disengaging, possibly the clutch shaft is stuck on the pilot bushing and still spinning? I was thinking that if while tractor was running in neutral and clutch depressed by a helper, I could look up at the clutch adjustment inspection hole and see if the clutch shaft is spinning (which I assume it should not spin when clutch is disengaged by pressing clutch pedal) which might support the idea of clutch shaft is being grabbed by pilot bushing and spinning. I don’t have any other ideas. Welcome thoughts and ideas, seems like I should be able to somehow diagnose without re-splitting, even though I may go there in the end. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions. Jim

never adjust the fingers when u get a rebuilt p. plate. its all done at rebuild time. so if u pla1yed with th fingers its hard to know now whats happening without eyes on the subject. and also the less freeplay the more you deprees the p. plate which means u have more clearance between flywheel and p. plate. as soon as you step on the clutch it should be shifting. have u tryed the pilot brg. for fit to the clutch shaft before installing it. as thats a standard procedure. so without seeing this and whats happening its hard to say.

 

[used red MN]

First question is, at this point have you adjusted the fingers? You said “..so I adjusted a little. I know there are mixed views on whether fingers come pre set, but just sharing this step as FYI…” that seems to imply you have. You should have adjusted the fingers closer to the throw out bearing. Then adjusted the pedal linkage adding more free play, is this what you did? You seem like you have a pretty good head on your shoulders “mechanically” so I am going to give you the short version of the release test. I have a long version wrote out to copy and paste for real greenies and thick heads.
With the tractor idling, with it in gear and the clutch down move the gear shift to neutral and say “one thousand” now try to shift it back in gear. If you held the clutch down that entire time and it ground when you tried to put it back in gear, then yes your clutch is not releasing properly. If it didn’t grind the clutch is releasing properly.

 

[rustred]

I don’t have hardly any pedal free play. That is one last adjustment I need to make, didn’t think that would / could have that impact. I will make that adjust tomorrow. I know this should be an inch or so of free play.

It is a good idea to actually see your free play. The distance from the fingers to the brg. U want at least 1/4 inch of space between them. And make sure if there is a spring , it is pulling the brg away. Most manuals specify 1” or so at platform for free travel till the brg hits the fingers. Free play is to make sure the disc is fully clamped by the flywheel snd pressure plate. And to protect the release brg from turning when clutch is engaged. Is is not to be turning , only when u step on the clutch. Many tractors u can visually check this also.

 

[DaveBN]

Assuming you changed the transmission fluid, what did you fill it with. Should be at least 80W-90 or thicker. Level check is on the left side of the transmission kinda behind the brake rod. Fill thru the plug by the shifting lever. To light or water logged fluid will add to your problem.
Dave

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Does it eventually stop if you hold the clutch down long enough?

If the tractor doesn't grind when starting with the clutch pedal pushed, there can't be all that much wrong. Give things some time to wear in. Everything is new and stiff and has sharp corners.

 

[rustred]

Hi guys. I just completed a clutch replacement on a Farmall Super A. Replaced clutch, pilot bushing, throw out bearing and new bearing carrier (replaced original graphite bearing). Initially the clutch rod and yoke were making contact with clutch finger adjust screws when fully depressing clutch pedal so I adjusted a little. I know there are mixed views on whether fingers come pre set, but just sharing this step as FYI in case it could have anything to do with my new problem. The new problem that I have now is that when I start the tractor and try to shift into gear from a stationary position (with clutch disengaged) there is an awful gear grind. However if I shift into gear with tractor off and then start the tractor with clutch pedal down, then I can release the clutch and drive and depress clutch to stop tractor movement, so I know it is not a stuck clutch I understand that it is not a synchronized transmission and takes slight pause to shift, but that does not seem to be my issue because even on first shift and with plenty of shift delay, there is continuous grind When attempting a shift. Welcome any analysis ideas. One thought I have is that when I press the clutch, even though the clutch is disengaging, possibly the clutch shaft is stuck on the pilot bushing and still spinning? I was thinking that if while tractor was running in neutral and clutch depressed by a helper, I could look up at the clutch adjustment inspection hole and see if the clutch shaft is spinning (which I assume it should not spin when clutch is disengaged by pressing clutch pedal) which might support the idea of clutch shaft is being grabbed by pilot bushing and spinning. I don’t have any other ideas. Welcome thoughts and ideas, seems like I should be able to somehow diagnose without re-splitting, even though I may go there in the end. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions. Jim

What’s the verdict? U get it shifting ?

 

[teddy52food]

I never tried it myself, but push foreward with the shift lever in the position above reverse before sliding it to 1st gear. I heard this was supposed to slow the gears down??????????? Let us know if it works or not.