Cockshutt 550 / Zenith 267 carb rebuild / purchase?

Hi all,

Just finished checking the oils and fuids, put 10 bucks in just to get the tank topped up, only to find gas POURING out the carburetor.

Cockshutt 550 with the gas hercules GO198 engine, assuming its a zenith 267j8 (according to the service manuals).

Assuming its nearly impossible to buy a pre-built replacement carb?.. Would anyone suggest a reliable rebuild kit, or is there a direct replacement for the zenith 267?

Always appreciated!
 
Hi all,

Just finished checking the oils and fuids, put 10 bucks in just to get the tank topped up, only to find gas POURING out the carburetor.

Cockshutt 550 with the gas hercules GO198 engine, assuming its a zenith 267j8 (according to the service manuals).

Assuming its nearly impossible to buy a pre-built replacement carb?.. Would anyone suggest a reliable rebuild kit, or is there a direct replacement for the zenith 267?

Always appreciated!
Take it apart, clean it up and put a kit in it. Just count how many turns on the adjustment screws and install with the same number of turns. Lots of times if your careful taking them apart you can put them back together without a kit. Or just shut the valve off under the tank.$20 bucks will buy an electric shut off to install in the fuel line. If it ran good before I'd just put an electric shut off valve on it.
 
Replacement carbs cost a fortune, kits don't. Ger the numbers off the carb, then check with Phil Heisey. Otherwise I would use someone like Carb Dr., etc.
 
Take it apart, clean it up and put a kit in it. Just count how many turns on the adjustment screws and install with the same number of turns. Lots of times if your careful taking them apart you can put them back together without a kit. Or just shut the valve off under the tank.$20 bucks will buy an electric shut off to install in the fuel line. If it ran good before I'd just put an electric shut off valve on it.
Thanks super. I dont kow if installing an electric shut off will remedy this. This was a steady, uninterupted stream coming off of the bottom of the carb. picture the fuel flow coming through the line, and just exiting out of the carb. there would be raw gas on the side of the oil pan and block while operating in this scenario. I 'think' its coming from a split in the gasket that is between the top and bottom pieces of the carb.

I do have another carb, however it has been sitting on a donor tractor (non-running and dry) for about 2 years. Hoping that one doesnt leak and hasnt corroded inside.

Will still be looking for a rebuild kit in the meanwhile.
 
Thanks super. I dont kow if installing an electric shut off will remedy this. This was a steady, uninterupted stream coming off of the bottom of the carb. picture the fuel flow coming through the line, and just exiting out of the carb. there would be raw gas on the side of the oil pan and block while operating in this scenario. I 'think' its coming from a split in the gasket that is between the top and bottom pieces of the carb.

I do have another carb, however it has been sitting on a donor tractor (non-running and dry) for about 2 years. Hoping that one doesnt leak and hasnt corroded inside.

Will still be looking for a rebuild kit in the meanwhile.
Check the fittings where the gas line attaches, might have a crack in one of them. From your first post I thought maybe the float was sticking open. Take the top piece off of your other carb and look inside. Blow air thru the passages and some carb cleaner if needed, put it back together and try it out, won't cost you anything but time. Good Luck!
 
Thanks super. I dont kow if installing an electric shut off will remedy this. This was a steady, uninterupted stream coming off of the bottom of the carb. picture the fuel flow coming through the line, and just exiting out of the carb. there would be raw gas on the side of the oil pan and block while operating in this scenario. I 'think' its coming from a split in the gasket that is between the top and bottom pieces of the carb.

I do have another carb, however it has been sitting on a donor tractor (non-running and dry) for about 2 years. Hoping that one doesnt leak and hasnt corroded inside.

Will still be looking for a rebuild kit in the meanwhile.
if the float and needle valve are working right no fuel will come out between top and bottom parts of the carb, first most likely is that the needle valve is not working, either bad seal or debris in the valve, second is that the float is bad, take it out and float it in fuel and see if it floats.
 
I second going to Carb Dr. (or somewhere similar). The last thing you want to do is buy a replacement carb. You'll either spend oodles of money on a really good one (which will probably be a rebuilt OEM one - which you can do yourself for a fraction of the cost), or you'll spend less money on one of the knock-off ones.

Although you can occasionally get lucky with the knock-off ones, about 80% of them don't work. Or if they do work, they'll run really, really rough and you won't be able to get it tuned right, no matter what you do: Usually the machining and porting in the cheapo ones just isn't accurate enough to get well-metered flow. A rebuild of the original is going to be both the best quality and the cheapest.

Sounds like your float's sticking or not sealing at the needle: Even if the gasket was cracked like you suppose, the needle would shut off the flow before it reached the gasket level (as long as the float's working properly).
 
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Rebuild it. You probably will not find an aftermarket replacement as good as the original. I just got parts from McDonald carb for four carbs I have on the bench, TSX, TSV and IH for a Cub. The online catalog is a bit confusing and most parts have not pictures. I emailed them with some questions and got a prompt and detailed reply.
 
THANKS J. Wondergem and flooder1997 !!
YES, We have the correct carb. kits and floats on stock for each COCKSHUTT BRANTFORD built COCKSHUTT TRACTORS'....!!!!! Phil Heisey...eastern, PA. USA 215-256-8651
 

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