Coil Problems, Resistor and Wiring Diagram for 6V/12V conver

[Fat Daddy]

I have a 1949 Ford 8N (SN 238175) which I purchased about 10 years ago.

We used this tractor sparingly and about 3-4 years ago while making a food plot with a harrow the tractor seemed to lose power. The tractor died in the middle of the food plot. I think we could get it started again but after a short time it seemed to sputter and loose power.
About the same time I noticed the exhaust manifold had a leak that the previous owner used JB weld to repair....it eventually blew. I don't think this is the issue with the tractor loosing power but I could be wrong.

The previous owner converted the tractor from a 6V generator to a 12V battery / alternator.

Early next week I am headed north for Michigan's deer season and during my visit I would like to get this old tractor running again.
I purchased (online) a new exhaust manifold, gaskets, studs, brass nuts and a tune up kit....spark plugs, condenser, points, etc.

I also plan to install the 3 lights the seller gave me 10+ years ago that I never connected.
The lights that were on the tractor were nice so the seller snipped them off and handed me some cheap ones made in China.
I'm no collector so it didn't matter to me....I just needed a working tractor to help around the cabin ( in the day light ).

When I get to camp next week I plan to...
1.) Check the radiator and add some fluid if needed
2.) Drain the gas ( from the bottom of the carb )
3.) Clean the glass sediment bowl ( assuming it has one )
4.) Replace the exhaust manifold
5.) Replace the plugs ( after I check the gap )
6.) Remove the coil/distributor and take it into the cabin so that I can replace the condenser, points, etc
7.) Connect the 12V battery ( and bring my charger ! )
8.) I suspect I may have had a coil problem 4 years ago so I'm going to check the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors"
9.) Add Fresh gas ( with stable )
10.) Pray
11.) Pray some more
12.) Turn the key on, adjust the throttle, pull the choke and press the start push button.
13.) Take it for a ride.....hopefully and see if it starts to loose power like it did 4 years ago when it warmed up.
14.) Possible replace the coil
15.) Install 3 lights ( made in china )

Please review the attached pics that I uploaded
1.) WIRE-12-47-1w (Early 8N Ford - Front Distributor - 12V - 1 wire).jpg
2.) Dash - with lables.jpg
3.) 1 wire altenator.jpg
4.) front mount dist and coil.jpg
5.) BatteryPad.jpg
6.) starter solenoid.jpg
7.) Lots of Wires - with lables.jpg

BTW - I'm no mechanic and know little to nothing about motors / electronics so bare with me.......

Questions:
1.) My alternator has 1 wire. Does it look like I have the correct wiring diagram?
2.) Label R1 - Is this the "original" ignition resistor?
3.) Label R2 - Does this mean my tractor is using a 6V coil?
4.) Is there an advantage to use a 12V coil?
5.) Assuming the current coil is a 6V coil and I replace it with a 12V coil do I remove R2 ?
6.) The wiring diagram ( see attached photos ) indicates the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors" should be 3.5 to 4.0 Ohms.
a. Is this true for the 6V coil
b. Is this true for the 12V coil
7.) How do I measure the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors"?
8.) What should the spark plugs gap be?
9.) Is there an easy way to tell if a coil is good / bad?

Thanks !

 

[Fat Daddy]

Uploaded pictures again

 

[Fat Daddy]

(quoted from post at 23:25:14 11/07/16) Uploaded pictures again

 

[tracto-man]

I think you have to do say 10 posts or something like that before the site lets ya post pics due to spammers.

Might want to post this down in the Ford 9n 2n 8n specific forum. You'll find much more specific help there.

Not a pro with these tractors, but for a couple of your questions, if you have a 12v system, you only have to have one resistor before the coil. If you have a 6v coil with a 12v system, you'd need multiple resistors. Not really an easy way to see if a coil is good or bad. If it's cracked or has obvious damage, it's bad. If it looks good and voltage is getting through it, it still may or may not be good or bad. I did just fix a tractor simply by putting a new coil on, it was showing similar symptoms.

Just my thoughts, not a pro. Btw, welcome to the forums!

Where about in MI are you hunting? I'm in the southern part, but still Deer hunt as much as I can down here.

 

[Fat Daddy]

I will try and move / remove this post so that it is on the ford 8n/2n/9n forum. I'm hunting in upper Michigan (in the middle of no where ) which is why I'm trying to pull together as much Intel as possible.

Thanks - good hunting.

 

[Charlie M]

I like to check the simple, free things first. Things I would do is make sure your points are good and not badly pitted (file to clean metal, wipe clean and regap) and if I had a good stream of gas from from the carb. I have had several occasions of junk in fuel lines that cause what you are saying, especially if it starts, runs only a few moments, quits and starts again in a few moments. Hopefully your carb has a plug in it that you could remove. Could be your sediment bowl is full of water. Concerning the patch on the manifold, if its on the intake the tractor will probably run - just run crappy. If its on the exhaust side it doesn't matter concerning how the tractor runs.If it were the resistor gone bad I don't believe you're tractor wouldn't run at all. I've had those go bad and just couldn't start the tractor. If you're battery cranks the tractor and used to run OK then it can't be a wiring problem, even if the wiring is messed up. I guess it could be a coil problem, can't say I've ever had it happen. I believe a bad coil will work until it warms up which takes a bit of time.