Coil

[Clapped 2N]

My 6 volt ford 2n was had no spark ut has power to the coil. I presumed it to be a bad coil and replaced the coil. Still no spark. Help.

 

[Sean in PA]

Have you checked the points and condenser? The coil merely steps the voltage up, but the points and condenser have to be working properly to create the lower voltage pulse on the primary side of the coil.

If you are getting a good spark at the points when the engine is turning, then the rotor or plug wires may be at fault.

 

[kenbob]

Did you replace the condenser lately? IF so do you have the old one? put it back in. New ones have a rep for being junk.

 

[Clapped 2N]

checked continuity on the plug wires and replaced the spark plugs last week. Im still learning lol.

 

[used red MN]

In you previous post in Tims reply he shows a picture
of the distributor with the cap off and a yellow A & B
on it. Not being a Ford guy can you remove the cap
and still have the coil mounted to the distributor? If so I
suggest you test for NO power on the spring contact
from the coil labeled ..A.. with the engine turned to a
position where the points are closed. And conversely
showing power when the points are open. An
eventually get it to flash a definite on and off while the
engine is cranking. I believe you are working fairly
close to the fan so a jumper wire would be in order to
use for this. If you cannot buy one make one with some
alligator clips on the end, see 2nd link. Just FYI in your
other post you said when testing the power to the lead
the wire to the coil you said it flashed when you
cranked the engine. I presume what you were seeing
was actually the test light changing between bright
and dim. A 6 volt system is very susceptible to
showing this reaction while cranking due to the
amperage the starter draws fluctuates as it cranks the
individual cylinders through the compression stroke.
Just for fun and learning put your test light across the
battery post and watch it while cranking. I will bet you
see the same flashing or actually bright to dim
alternation there. This reaction is also amplified when
testing at the coil feed wire if you have a resistor as
shown in Tims second to last post. When testing at the
coil contact spring for on.. off power make sure you
are watching that a definite turn off of the light is
occurring when the points are closed.
Previous post

example alligator clips

 

[Jim L WA]

Here is a trouble shooting guide for a front mount distributor. I give credit to Bruce VA.

Trouble Shooting "No Spark" On A Front Mount Distributor

The first thing you need to check is for battery voltage at the coil. With the key on, you should see battery voltage battery with the points open and about half that with the points closed. If you do not see either, the problem is between the battery and the coil, e.g., the resistor, ignition switch or a bad connection.
Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok (*see below), & that you have correct voltage to the coil , the most common reasons for no spark or a weak spark on the front distributor are below. Check each one carefully. Even if you find a problem, check all 10:
1. The insulator under the brass concave head screw & where the copper strip attaches. (it's fiber & will wear out; poke & prod w/ your meter leads to make sure it still works) If you need to replace the insulator, use a .250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores.
2. The pigtail at the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the concave head brass screw inside the distributor. (With the coil on, the pigtail must firmly contact the brass screw. No contact = no spark) Check for continuity between the top of the coil and the pig tail; a 6 volt coil will be around 1 ohm & a 12 volt coil should be 2 to 3 ohms.
3. The copper strip is broken or grounded to the plate. (look very carefully for cracks & breaks) .
4. The distributor is not grounded to the block because of paint or grease acting as an insulator. Or the points plate is covered in oil.
5. The tab on the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the brass button on the cap. (With the cap on, the tab must firmly contact the brass button. No contact = no spark.) Check for continuity between the top of the coil and the tab; you should see about 6k ohms.
6. A grounding issue inside the distributor: Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground. (the open part of the clip goes between 7 & 9 o'clock on the plate. That puts the straight part of the clip opposite of the timing screw at 3 o'clock) or the condenser wire is grounding to the plate or side of the distributor.
7. Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor due to a loose bail or no gasket.(the coil must not move at all; if it does, replace the gasket or bail. Or stick some cardboard under the bail).
8. Water/moisture inside the cap due to gasket failure or the absence of a gasket. (the cap AND coil have gaskets)
9. Dirty/corroded/burned/incorrectly gapped or misaligned points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* *see below). If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (*** see below) If the tractor has been sitting unused for a few months, it s highly likely that the points are glazed. Dress them with brown paper or card stock. Do NOT use a file or sandpaper. That removes the thin metallic coating on the surface and reduces point life considerably. With the points closed, you should have continuity between them; high resistance means they are glazed.
10. Burned rotor, cracked/carbon tracked cap. Brass "dust" in the cap is a sure sign of bushing wear.
After find the problem & re-check the point gap, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.
With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:
1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.
2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.
3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!
4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!
At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a 'no spark' problem.
It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.
* Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move. The tracks should not be wallowed out.

** Yesterday's Tractor kit:
Premium Blue Streak points (A0NN12107ABS), rotor, condenser, and gauge Part
No: APN12000ABSR

** Distributor cam lube NAPA:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHML1
*** There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:
1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30. Resist the temptation to buy a new plate; most are pot metal and the threads will wallow out about the third time you change the points.
2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.
3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop
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