" my local tractor supply"
That's your first problem. Many folks around here have had a lot of problems w/ ignition parts sold by TSC. The fact that they don't know the difference between the two should tell you something.
Chances are one is a "6v" coil & the other is a "12v" coil.
You have a number of options for vendors; this site, nnalert's, NAPA, etc.
But, you first need to figure out which coil you need.
If all you have for resistors in the ignition circuit is the OEM ballast resistor, the "12v" coil should work just fine.
If you have any other resistors, you will need to remove them & use the "12v" coil or measure the additional resistors & match them to a "6v" coil.
Technology & materials being what they were in the 30's, that square coil would melt if it ran on much more than 4 amps for any length of time. (see tip # 38 for an example). In order to get a hot spark at the same time the starter was drawing max current from the battery, a ballast resistor was added in the ignition circuit. What that did was add about .3 ohms of resistance in the circuit, added to the 1.5 ohms of the coil. That got you 3.5 amps or so at start up. As the voltage increased when the engine was running to about 7.5 volts, the resistor heated up, adding more resistance in the circuit. 1.0 ohms hot, plus 1.5 ohms of the coil got you down to 3 amps or so to keep from melting the coil. The same rule (actually, Ohm's Law) applies to a 12v circuit. I= E/R. Current equals voltage divided by resistance.
It used to be before the "Land of Almost Right" started making coils that you could count on a 12v frontmount coil as having 3 ohms of internal resistance & the 6v coils as having 1.5 ohms or less. Thus, thanks to Ohm's Law, you could calculate what additional resistance you needed in the circuit to limit coil current to 3.5 amps.
50 Tips