cold weather starting

Mad Farmer

Well-known Member
Location
Northeast
I found this out a couple years ago and seems to work better than a block/oil heater.

Take an old hair dryer and a small bungee cord, direct the hair dryer on HI at carb, go have a cup of hot coffee.

When done with the coffee the Ford will start up like summertime (don't flood).
 
The engine's spark plug ignites gasoline vapors, not the liquid. Warming the carb/manifold vaporizes the gasoline. Good tip!
 
(quoted from post at 07:18:01 12/12/22) I found this out a couple years ago and seems to work better than a block/oil heater.

Take an old hair dryer and a small bungee cord, direct the hair dryer on HI at carb, go have a cup of hot coffee.

When done with the coffee the Ford will start up like summertime (don't flood).

When needed this is my tractor heater. Warms more than the manifold and does it in a hurry.
Snow be gone too! ;-)

TOH


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This post was edited by TheOldHokie on 12/12/2022 at 04:27 am.
 
For lack of another method years ago, my Dad would take a teakettle of scalding water out and pour it over the intake and carb. As mentioned by RM-MN, it makes the vapor HAPPEN. (Dad was east central MN.. so cold it was hard to get the transmission to turn... having the clutch DOWN was a MUST!!)
 

My N lives outside under a big heavy military tarp.

I sucks clearing the snow off the tarp, then flooding it. Having to take out all the plugs and clean them........

Besides the hair dryer, another thing that helps with flooding.

When you park it, turn off the gas and let it run a bit. Keeps the fuel in line from running down to carb if it sits a long time.
 
Cold affects battery life more than fuel. Using a float charger on the battery is advised when tractor is idle all year. Carb and gas doesn't freeze unless it contains water. I don't like or advise placing a light bulb or heater next to battery or carb overnight when unattended. One winter snow storm I once was called by a neighbor who couldn't get his 9N running and said he had put a light bulb on his battery overnight. When I got to his barn, the bulb had melted the battery and the entire top was gone exposing the inside and all else. It could have been a major disaster. I kept my 8N parked outside for a few years, tarped well, and with Michigan winter temps at Zero plus or minus 10-20 degrees, but always pulled the battery and connected the float charger so it was at optimum condition when needed and it always started right up. One other issue when parking tractor outside is getting the distributor wet with rain and snow -that'll hinder performance as well. Keep tarp snug especially on the front and sides to protect from weather. Use tie downs and bungy cords and check everyday as wind can loosen up the tarp easily.


Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 02:47:26 12/13/22)

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim, I've got original 6V + ground system. Battery is ~ 6 years old. Tractor sat for a couple months since I last used the rotary cutter. I went to start it a couple of days ago, to take off cutter/put on tire chains and back blade. We were getting snow, it was 15 oF that night before.

I forgot the hair dryer warm up. It turned over fine but flooded. I got out hair dryer and warmed things up when I was cleaning the plugs. With clean plugs and and a warm carb it fired right up.

Next day I warmed up the carb, started right up. Then I plowed the snow.

P.S. I've shoehorned the largest 6V bat with most CCA I could buy into the N.


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I remember my Dad lighting a hog pan full of corn cobs, letting it burn to coals, then putting it under the belly of our 8N. It was always parked inside, but in the alleyway of the corn crib - what I thought was the coldest place on the farm!
 
If you cover the entire machine,it will rust fairly quickly. Mine stays outside,covered on top,but allowing
air circulation. The problem with covering the whole thing is that the ground transfers moisture.
 
I went out this morning,not too cold,but around 35. I was about to start it using my normal procedure,but decided to try the hand crank. The battery was fully charged,but I wanted to see if it would still crank that way. It fired the first crank after priming it with the key off.
 
(quoted from post at 07:19:23 12/16/22) If you cover the entire machine,it will rust fairly quickly. Mine stays outside,covered on top,but allowing
air circulation. The problem with covering the whole thing is that the ground transfers moisture.

The military tarp I have is a heavy vinyl coated SOB, has lasted ~20 years so far. I usually don't bungee it down unless it will be sitting a while or VERY strong winds expected.

It's about perfect size as when the tractor is covered there is about a foot of space on the sides for air circulation. The tractor looks about the same as it did when I bought it in the 1980s.

I've stored cars/trucks outside under tarps. Always try to get some air circulation. To minimize moisture from the ground I park it on a HD plastic tarp.
 
I use a hand held propane torch to heat up the intake manifold when it super cold. I heat the manifold real good ,then turn the gas on ,set the throttle 1/2 way pull the choke,push in the clutch petal and start her up.Keep the clutch petal down till it warms up some.
 
If your tractor sits close to electricity put in this Kat's (16600) 1.5" Lower Radiator Heater Hose. Plug in for at least 30 minutes and it starts like it is 50 degrees out. Tight fit but works.

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When we lived on the farm in Central IL, I used a magnetic heater - two, actually; one stuck to the hydraulic sump, and one stuck to the intake manifold. Worked great, and didn't have to wait for the hydraulics to warm up to plow snow.

Before I figured out that system, my record low temp for a successful start (without any heating aids) was -4*F. Took a few attempts, with judicious use of the choke, but it did start!

es

This post was edited by Ed S. (IL) on 12/22/2022 at 07:40 am.
 
Just yesterday I needed to move my Ferguson, so put a work light, one of those rough surface bulbs, 60 watts I think against the intake manifold for about a half hour. It was 6 degrees at the time. It started right up and never died. I did have to feather the choke two or three times.
 
Had to start my 48 -8N . It was -6 (36 w chill ) she turned over slowly but she started the 3rd time over. I let it run 20 min to warm up. Performed very well.
 
the last time i had to, i used a light bulb. but my N and i have a pact. i don't ask it to start when it's cold, and it doesn't.
 
(quoted from post at 18:21:23 12/23/22) Had to start my 48 -8N . It was -6 (36 w chill ) she turned over slowly but she started the 3rd time over. I let it run 20 min to warm up. Performed very well.

That's a good N!

-6 oF? or oC

Put a newspaper over grille housing
 
(quoted from post at 17:45:51 12/29/22) A simpler option is to convert to 12v and EI.

Just walk out to the tractor any time you like, start it up and drive away !!

Simpler yet, stay with 6V original configuration.

Just walk out to the tractor any time you like, start it up and drive away !!

Has worked for me since 1987. If it isn't "broke" don't "fix" it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:53:20 12/29/22)
(quoted from post at 17:45:51 12/29/22) A simpler option is to convert to 12v and EI.

Just walk out to the tractor any time you like, start it up and drive away !!

Simpler yet, stay with 6V original configuration.

Just walk out to the tractor any time you like, start it up and drive away !!

Has worked for me since 1987. If it isn't "broke" don't "fix" it.

Lol, yeah, I knew I would get that response. This entire thread is about the things people do to start their tractors in the cold. We've covered using light bulbs, burning corn Cobbs , hand held propane torches, full sized kerosene heaters, etc.

But let's forget about the facts and go with that comforting emotional thought that 6v breaker points are perfectly fine.

Ahh, so soothing and reassuring...
 

i don't use any of those. i just start it in any weather when i need it. nothing emotional about that, just factual.

whatever works for you though.
 
(quoted from post at 04:38:23 12/30/22)
i don't use any of those. i just start it in any weather when i need it. nothing emotional about that, just factual.

whatever works for you though.

You must have a nice warm barn.

I've run my N outside since the 1980s. It stays outside under a military tarp.

It is original 6V + ground. As said above it will foul plugs < oF most times, heat he carb it strarts every time. GOT THAT!!!???

You flood it you are pulling all 4 plugs. Winer in he snow

Show us a picture, of your N, starting, at - 0 oF, outside.
 
(quoted from post at 12:11:24 12/30/22)

You must have a nice warm barn.

I've run my N outside since the 1980s. It stays outside under a military tarp.

It is original 6V + ground. As said above it will foul plugs < oF most times, heat he carb it strarts every time. GOT THAT!!!???

You flood it you are pulling all 4 plugs. Winer in he snow

Show us a picture, of your N, starting, at - 0 oF, outside.

i did show a picture - a video in fact. there's a u-toob link above. it was -15*F when i took the video. during my ownership, it has never been in a barn, covered, plugged in, etc. it sits outdoors 24/7/365.

it starts using its 6-volt battery and the choke; no ether, ever.

This post was edited by wallytoo on 12/30/2022 at 11:29 am.
 

I have a 52 8n, still 6 volt. The only time I ve not had it start was when I had issues with the points/condenser and coil, or when the battery was getting bad, or when the plugs were finally too far fouled from burning oil, etc. I ve never needed to pre-heat any part of my tractor to get it to start - and last week I started it at at 6 degrees F.

I understand how a block heater works, by heating the oil so it flows better. I know a sure way to stall my tractor immediately after startup on a cold day is to just lift my foot off the clutch quickly- the UTF in the transmission needs to get moving around some.

So what, exactly, does putting a hairdryer or other heat source on the intake manifold or carburetor do? So it s 12 degrees out, and you put a hairdryer on the intake manifold to heat it uphow "warm" is it going to make the 12 degree air being pulled through it? Same with the carb. Carbs, by their very nature, get cold during operation. I would think that the air being sucked into the engine is still 12 degrees, with or without the use of the hairdryer. Or am I missing somethiing?
 
Dell was the first one I remember talking about that, something he learned on a old car or something. Just warming up the manifold just for the initial start vaporizes the gas better. I put a heat lamp on the manifold and a magnetic heater on the oil pan.
 
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