Comparing saw chains,

[onefarmer]

I found this interesting.
YOUTUBE

 

[Steve@Advance]

That's about what I expected to find.

I'm glad y'all talked me out of the carbide a few years ago!

Now he needs to test them again after a resharpen.

 

[544hydro]

I like that channel, he does a lot of good comparison videos.

 

[onefarmer]

I never thought of a carbide chain for everyday wood cutting. More for emergency use and cutting other than pure wood. I was surprised by the Carlton chain. I thought it would be a higher quality than that. I use only Stihl chains after all these years I found them as being the best. I only use the full chisel non-safety chain

 

[Loosehandle]

Yup non safety tickled with a file will out cut anything sharpened with a grinder

 

[Dean]

Interesting.

I buy only Stihl chains but have bought mostly semi-chisel chains.

I often get my chains into the ground as I usually cut trees flush or below ground so that I do not hit remnants with my mowers which are set to mow as closely as possible without scalping.

Because I often get my chains into the ground, I bought my own electric sharpener years ago and sharpen my own chains.

Still, it has become annoying to grind down the drag links so often. Doing so on my bench grinder takes longer than does sharpening the chain on my sharpener.

No more semi chisel chains for me.

Wish that I could buy non safety chains.

Dean

 

[kcm.MN]

I bought half dozen of the UpStart chains when I bought an Oregon CS1500 corded electric saw. I've been pleasantly thrilled with both the saw and the chains. From my experience, the UpStart chains performed equally to Oregon - on my saws anyhow.

The CS1500 comes with this new-style chain with a swept-forward tooth design. Gotta be REAL careful handling a sharpened chain!! But those chains are also very expensive. So I got the UpStart, but only paid about $7.50 each, including tax and shipping.

 

[zuhnc]

I have a Stihl 023L, 16" bar, and all I use is carbide. For me, they stay sharp longer, and I have the diamond wheels and sharpener to resharpen. Rocks are not too detrimental, but they don't like chain link or woven wire fencing or the T-posts! Tends to knock the carbide tooth off. Lots of oak where I live, and the saw cuts it very well. zuhnc

 

[Bret4207]

I've watched several of that guys vids. Don't care much for his "testing" methods. IMO any major name chain will work if it's sharp and set up right AND is appropriate for the saw in question. Carbide is not for the everyday wood cutting needs. It's a waste of $$$ for most people. Much of the "safety chain" is limited in it's application too. Even a soft chain can cut well if you maintain it and know what you're doing. Most people cannot sharpen a chain at all and the number that can do it freehand is probably below 1% of saw users. A decent file guide will help most folks, as will a properly set up grinder. For a poorly set up or made grinder (like mine) a touch up with a file after fixing the rocked teeth is still needed.

 

[Texasmark1]

Stihl for me too. I like the easy start, easy chain tightening 180 I think is the number...16" guide bar. running 91 octane gasoline and their synthetic grey bottle of oil. If the log/limb is too big I just come back from the other side.

 

[Nordic]

Interesting topic for us that use chainsaws quite a bit. I don't have a Stihl chainsaw but I had a new Stihl carbide tooth chain given to me. I must say I am very impressed with it. I have done lots of work using it since this last spring. I totally heat a 3000 sq. ft. house plus my shop with wood and I live up north. It has not ever been sharpened even once yet. Now that we're at the end of the year if you tried my saw and looked at the teeth and on pretence I would tell you I put it on new three days ago you'd have no reason to doubt it. The chain has not been in dirt or rocks. Seeing that the Stihl chain in the "Project Farm" video was the winner I wish he would have also tested a Stihl carbide tooth chain as well for fair comparison. The quality of "carbide" may vary between different manufacturers.

 

[Billy NY]

I'm not sure if I missed if he said what specific Stihl chain he used. My preference in saw chain is Stihl RS (yellow), seems perform remarkably well for work I do which has been lots of dead elm firewood and or felling, which is usually dead elm, which can be dry and hard. I put on a new chain to cut what I figure was a full tri-axle load of elm. It needed a touch up at the end of that pile, but was still cutting well. I've used Husqvarna & Oregon, both very satisfactorily, just seem to like the Stihl RS the best.

For hand filing, the Stihl tool that does both the cutter and the depth gauge seems to work very well, just keep it true to the angle and or level when filing. It will cut better than one that was done on the grinder at the very trustworthy saw shop here in town. It seems to get the depth gauges proportionally correct to the cutter. I don't think the grinder, for whatever reason, gets this right, never seems to pull into the wood as well. I can take care of rocked teeth with a clamp on file guide, it's accurate. I've got an old Stihl grinder that I have yet to use, kind of like the speed of those, but hand file seems to perform better.

 

[Bret4207]

Billy, a guy that understands his grinder can produce a lot sharper chain that a guy that just chucks things up and makes sparks. And, not all grinders are created equal! A well ground chain will cut nicely, but not all chains are well ground. Just the nature of all sharpening I suppose.

 

[Billy NY]

I'm glad you commented as this has had me wondering, why aren't they like that when I got them back. I had thought they should be
trued up like a new one, should cut like a new one, maybe there is more to it ? The $39 Stihl hand file that also does the depth
gauges was well worth the cost, I could never get those depth gauges right. I could always accurately file the cutters with a
clamp on file guide, depth gauges, either too much off and the chain rattled in the cut, no good, not safe, or not enough and they
don't pull in or make a decent chip. With this tool, if you can stay close to the angle line on each cutter when filing, keep it
level, seems to work very well. I have not trashed a chain in a long time so have not tried to true one up with it.

No matter what, the saw needs to pull into the cut, throw a decent size chip, not rattle in the cut and stay straight in the cut,
not pull to one side, + the other maintenance items, clean the air filter regularly, oil passage to the bar, bar groove, chain
tension, wear on sprocket to monitor etc. People don't all seem to get that, course that has nothing to do with chain types/this
post, there is a lot of little things to keep any saw performing well.

This shop is well known for sharpening chains correctly etc. Doesn't add up, now mind you, they do perform well, but not as well
as one I've filed with the tool that does both the cutter and depth gauge. My neighbor owned the shop, did most of the sharpening
for years, he sold to his partner and finished there semi-retired. I'll have to ask him about it. This shop has done this work for
probably 50 years now, their work has always been very good, repairs on all models of saws etc.

 

[jaoneill]

I agree completely with your take on it. It's all in the end result and a goodly number of shops that don't deal with loggers don't have anyone with a clue as to what a sharp chain is. With our local logging industry most shops are pretty good. Although I only cut about 10 cord a year these days that is still enough that I am not about to waste time with a chain that isn't throwing a stream of chips. I hand file, doing a quick touch-up with each gas fill. I have a grinder that I haven't used in years. I use only non safety chain and have been buying from Bailey's online for years.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 20:15:40 11/28/20) I agree completely with your take on it. It's all in the end result and a goodly number of shops that don't deal with loggers don't have anyone with a clue as to what a sharp chain is. With our local logging industry most shops are pretty good. Although I only cut about 10 cord a year these days that is still enough that I am not about to waste time with a chain that isn't throwing a stream of chips. I hand file, doing a quick touch-up with each gas fill. I have a grinder that I haven't used in years. I use only non safety chain and have been buying from Bailey's online for years.

I've had good luck with Randy Constance out to Country Club Stihl, not so good luck with Woodchop Shop, no exprience with Sullys. I've been thinking about getting a good grinder since I have 2 boys that seem to be magnets for rocks, wire, nails, etc. in any hunka wood on the farm.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 13:29:08 11/28/20) I'm glad you commented as this has had me wondering, why aren't they like that when I got them back. I had thought they should be
trued up like a new one, should cut like a new one, maybe there is more to it ? The $39 Stihl hand file that also does the depth
gauges was well worth the cost, I could never get those depth gauges right. I could always accurately file the cutters with a
clamp on file guide, depth gauges, either too much off and the chain rattled in the cut, no good, not safe, or not enough and they
don't pull in or make a decent chip. With this tool, if you can stay close to the angle line on each cutter when filing, keep it
level, seems to work very well. I have not trashed a chain in a long time so have not tried to true one up with it.

No matter what, the saw needs to pull into the cut, throw a decent size chip, not rattle in the cut and stay straight in the cut,
not pull to one side, + the other maintenance items, clean the air filter regularly, oil passage to the bar, bar groove, chain
tension, wear on sprocket to monitor etc. People don't all seem to get that, course that has nothing to do with chain types/this
post, there is a lot of little things to keep any saw performing well.

This shop is well known for sharpening chains correctly etc. Doesn't add up, now mind you, they do perform well, but not as well
as one I've filed with the tool that does both the cutter and depth gauge. My neighbor owned the shop, did most of the sharpening
for years, he sold to his partner and finished there semi-retired. I'll have to ask him about it. This shop has done this work for
probably 50 years now, their work has always been very good, repairs on all models of saws etc.

Billy, if the grinder wheel isn't profiled correctly, if it isn't "fresh" and is glazed, if the angles are wrong for the cutter style, or if someone just isn't paying attn you get a chain that is obviously ground, but it may not cut. And then there are the rakers/depth gauges to figure in. I will readily admit I'm a terrible filer, but I know why and I take pains to avoid cutting from the left more than I do on the right. Even with a file guide I cut more from one side than the other. A grinder, properly set up, might be a good thing for a klutz like me!

 

[jaoneill]

The last time I brought a chain in to be sharpened was probably back in the seventies, the chain had been rocked, Woodchop shop did an ok job then. Not sure about having Sullys do one, but I have heard through the grapevine that his son, even as a teenager, was unbelievably good with a file, better than anyone else around.

 

[onefarmer]

Bret...That is exactly why I bought a grinder years ago. First I bought an old worn out one just to help me keep the correct angles. I had to adjust amount of cut for each side to keep that even. Then I bought a Speed Sharp with a hydraulic clamp. That was a game changer for me. I had to learn to dress the wheel and even keep a certain profile on the wheel. I grind everything now. I do cut my rakers more than recommended. I want to pull logs not dust. Works for me anyway, I'm terrible with a file.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 11:51:10 11/29/20) The last time I brought a chain in to be sharpened was probably back in the seventies, the chain had been rocked, Woodchop shop did an ok job then. Not sure about having Sullys do one, but I have heard through the grapevine that his son, even as a teenager, was unbelievably good with a file, better than anyone else around.

Ok, I've only had about 3 sharpened in the last 25 years up here when the saw was in the shop because I was straight out and had too much going to do anything. I thought by your post you had experience, maybe through friends or family, with the job done locally.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 12:16:39 11/29/20) Bret...That is exactly why I bought a grinder years ago. First I bought an old worn out one just to help me keep the correct angles. I had to adjust amount of cut for each side to keep that even. Then I bought a Speed Sharp with a hydraulic clamp. That was a game changer for me. I had to learn to dress the wheel and even keep a certain profile on the wheel. I grind everything now. I do cut my rakers more than recommended. I want to pull logs not dust. Works for me anyway, I'm terrible with a file.

I have a little one I got off Northern Tool years back but it doesn't give any hook at all. I also have a Foley 308 but it's a mess and I'm still looking for parts to fix it. Auction buy, you know the story. I can file alright, it's just that the boys seem to hit a awful lot of stuff that "rocks" the chain. Too set in their ways to change them now I suppose.

 

[jaoneill]

(quoted from post at 09:47:38 11/30/20)

(quoted from post at 11:51:10 11/29/20)

Ok, I've only had about 3 sharpened in the last 25 years up here when the saw was in the shop because I was straight out and had too much going to do anything. I thought by your post you had experience, maybe through friends or family, with the job done locally.

I wouldn't be afraid to give Sully's a try. I bought my last two Jonsereds from him and find him honest and easy to deal with.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 07:09:59 11/26/20)
I've watched several of that guys vids. Don't care much for his "testing" methods. IMO any major name chain will work if it's sharp and set up right AND is appropriate for the saw in question. Carbide is not for the everyday wood cutting needs. It's a waste of $$$ for most people. Much of the "safety chain" is limited in it's application too. Even a soft chain can cut well if you maintain it and know what you're doing. Most people cannot sharpen a chain at all and the number that can do it freehand is probably below 1% of saw users. A decent file guide will help most folks, as will a properly set up grinder. For a poorly set up or made grinder (like mine) a touch up with a file after fixing the rocked teeth is still needed.

Yeah, as usual, it's all IF this and IF that and IF the other thing and IF the stars and planets are all aligned and IF you wear a hat made out of the exact right amount of tinfoil and IF you stand on your left foot with your right foot in your shirt pocket...

You're right, not all people have the skills and most don't have enough use for a chainsaw to develop those skills. He was not testing chains for loggers, he was testing chains new out of the box for regular folks, many of which believe that you throw away a chainsaw chain when it gets dull.

It was a test of best bang for the buck out of the box, because most people could not make a dull chain sharp again.