completely and totally confused

I started my old B this spring, and it ran good for about 15 minutes, then died. Coil was SUPER hot! Bought a new coil. Same thing. Put in new points, no go. New condenser, same. Swapped it out with the one on my A. B runs great, A won't start now. Sent distributor in to be checked over and rebuilt if needed. Shot $215 there for no progress. Another new coil from NAPA. Ran great for 1/2 hr., then died, now won't start. I have fuel, completely cleaned the carb, same thing. It runs great on a mag, but I'd rather have the distributor. Anybody got any great ideas before I abandon this whole mess and put a mag on it?
 
"Swapped it out with the one on my A. B runs great, A won't start now."

Did you swap out the coils, the condensers or the distributors? B's were 6 volt from the factory, late A's were 12 volts. A 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system needs a resistor to step down the voltage after starting. Today's new condensers are often bad right out of the box.
 
Always trouble shoot then parts never the other way around
#1 check that you have a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more from the coil wire and at both plug wires.
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes and 2 if better
 
If as coil is as you say SUPER HOT it could be due to 12 volts being applied to a 6 volt coil. It would run a while until the coil overheats and points will burn up soon. Have you checked for spark ??

John T
 
I would try using a new 12 volt coil, the distributor cannot cause the coil to overheat while the engine is running. The only cause of coil overheating, with the engine running, is over voltage.
 
Here's a summary regarding coils and your overheating problem that may help you understand:

A typical full true 12 Volt coil (NO external ballast required) would have around 2.5 to under 4 ohms (many around 3 ohms) of LV Primary resistance as measured between its two small + and - terminals

A typical 6 volt coil would have around 1.2 to 2 ohms (many 1.5 ohms) of LV primary resistance as measured between its small + and - terminals

On a 12 volt tractor you can use EITHER a full true 12 volt coil (no ballast required) orrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a 6 Volt Coil PLUS an external series voltage dropping (12 down to 6) ballast resistor

If you applied 12 volts to a 6 volt coil with no ballast THE COIL WILL OVERHEAT BADLY AND EVENTUALLY FAIL

A coil labeled "12 Volts" or "12 Volts NOT for use with ballast" or "12 Volts no ballast required" is a true 12 Volt coil

HOWEVER if labeled "12 Volts for use with or requires ballast" its more like a 6 Volt coil and needs ballast like it says on a 12 volt tractor OR IT WILL OVERHEAT AND FAIL

A Magneto DOES NOT USE ANY BATTERY VOLTAGE to operate and doesn't care if the tractor is 6 or 12 volts

A Magneto may have an external kill switch stud/terminal that kills the spark if its wired to frame ground HOWEVER DO NOT APPLY HOT BATERY VOLTAGE THERE as it can damage the coil and points etc

Some B's have a Wico Magneto, maybe an X series, maybe a C series, maybe an AP,,,,,,,,,,,
Some B's have a Wico XB battery powered distributor (NOT a magneto, uses battery voltage) which resembles an X series mag,,,,,,,,,
Some B's have a Faribanks Morse Magneto

There's more the other fine gents can add to this but nuff said for now

John T
 
if you apply 12 volts to a 6 volt coil (without a ballast) you will burn up another one too. Read my post John T PS above for an explanation

John T
 
OK, let me start over. My "A" and my "B" are both on 12 volt systems. I converted the "B" several years ago.

My point is this---I have one distributor that works like a top! No problems. It works on either 12 volt tractor.

I had a distributor that had been working on the "B", but the coil went bad. I put on a new coil, and it got so hot you couldn't touch it. I swapped distributors with the "A" and the same thing happened. The "A"'s distributor burned up the coil. The distributor was a little bit loose internally, so I sent it in to be either overhauled or exchanged. The distributor I got back was all new parts inside. I set the points,the condenser was new, and I used new wires from the switch to the spark plugs. It burned up a brand new NAPA coil within 1/2 an hour. I put on a Wico X magneto, and it runs great.

Now, I think I've explained it better and more accurately so that all can understand the problem. Why am I burning up coils?????
 
Sounds like your missing a ballast resister on the B which will cause th coils to get super hot and also cause the points to burn out fast. You either need a ballast resister or a TRUE 12 volt coil that says right on it no external resister needed
 
(quoted from post at 12:03:23 09/14/20) Sounds like your missing a ballast resister on the B which will cause th coils to get super hot and also cause the points to burn out fast. You either need a ballast resister or a TRUE 12 volt coil that says right on it no external resister needed

They have both burned up coils, all were no ballast needed coils.
 
(quoted from post at 11:01:17 09/14/20) Too much amps!

What would cause that, and how can I cure it. The coils have all been listed as no resistor needed. Would electronic ignition cure the problem, or would it burn up also?
 
How many amps are going to the coil? What is the voltage? Is the charging system such that it can't get to the battery so it pushes way too much to the coil? Bad connections at the battery?
 
(quoted from post at 09:33:26 09/14/20) I've already burned up 3 coils!

You have seen on this site with similar prior circumstances. To measure voltage, resistance and current. Does the 12V coil state "12V with ballast resistor " ?
 

Measure the coil's resistance, measure the current through the coil and measure the voltage applied across the coil when the points are closed.
guessing isn't accomplishing anything .
 
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