compression

[startin out]

46 2n front mount dis 70 lbs compression all 4 cylinders stuck valves?

 

[Ultradog MN]

Stuck valves would pretty much make it read zero.
More likely it's rings. How about a little history on the tractor. How long have you owned it etc? Was the tractor sitting for a long time?
Was it a runner and smoked bad?
It might be stuck rings too. So a treatment of MMO or ATF down the spark plug holes for a week then run the snot out of for a few hours might free them up.
Also, did you do the compression test right?
Fresh battery, all plugs out, wide open throttle.

 

[old]

Valves NO but sticking rings or and engine that has way to many hours yes. Do as Ultra said and fill the cylinders with ATF and let it sit for a week then pull the plugs back out, always put them back in to keep stuff out. Pull the plugs spin it over to clear the cylinders then do another compression check

 

[startin out]

Thanks guys redid compression test with throttle open all the way 95lbs pressure all 4 cylinders. Ijust purchased tractor it sat covered for 2 years the gentleman said he used it daily on horse farm. He converted it to 12 volt w/ei and inherited a kubota never got it running. I paid 300.00 for it w/ wagner loader i'll keep plugging away thanks again startin out

 

[Bruce (VA)]

That's plenty of compression for it to start & run.

Now, you need spark & fuel. And a set of manuals (tip # 39)

Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the plugs, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter. Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16" hex nut again, & use w/ 90w gear oil this time. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes).

Good luck & check back!
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