Considering a Ford 3000

I'm considering a Ford 3000, diesel, found in the attached photos.
The Good:
Starts right up using one battery, and comes with a lot of implements (4). Tires are fair.

The bad?:
It has been sitting for 7 years, and hasn't been run for two.
The engine smokes when you abruptly engage the throttle. (no blowby from the dipstick)
The lever for the locking rear (at your right heel) is locked up
The PTO will not engage without grinding, with the H/L selector and gear selector in neutral. (adjustment?)

I'm curious if any of the "bad" are show stoppers?
 

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Last edited:
I'm considering a Ford 3000, diesel, found in the attached photos.
The Good:
Starts right up using one battery, and comes with a lot of implements (4). Tires are fair.

The bad?:
It has been sitting for 7 years, and hasn't been run for two.
The engine smokes when you abruptly engage the throttle. (no blowby from the dipstick)
The lever for the locking rear (at your right heel) is locked up
The PTO will not engage without grinding, with the H/L selector and gear selector in neutral. (adjustment?)

I'm curious if any of the "bad" are show stoppers?
That tractor should have a 2 stage clutch and if you can't get the adjustment right with the clutch rod it will require splitting the tractor to repair or replace the 2 stage clutch. As for the smoke when throttled up it depends on the color of the smoke. Some black smoke is normal. Is the diff lock engaged or is the pedal just hanging down and not engaging the diff lock?
 
I'm considering a Ford 3000, diesel, found in the attached photos.
The Good:
Starts right up using one battery, and comes with a lot of implements (4). Tires are fair.

The bad?:
It has been sitting for 7 years, and hasn't been run for two.
The engine smokes when you abruptly engage the throttle. (no blowby from the dipstick)
The lever for the locking rear (at your right heel) is locked up
The PTO will not engage without grinding, with the H/L selector and gear selector in neutral. (adjustment?)

I'm curious if any of the "bad" are show stoppers?
You dont have the "two hole" clevis on the clutch arm, meaning that its be changed out....... or its NOT a live pto, but a transmission pto. Its got a feb 11 1966 build on the date code you show, for that particular part and it got the wrong decals ( later ones, instead of the early ones.) It should blow black when reving up as normal... How does it start cold?? Are there any bubbles in the radiator with the engine running? what color is the oil? and posting the serial number, model number and dated code will tell us more... on the flat spot just behind the starter, facing up will be the 3 numbers we need. It might be a very nice tractor, just need to see how its equipped.... Sitting does not necessary hurt them.. the diff-locking pedal is often stuck and needs a lot of wd40 and working back and forth to get it loose to where it will pop back up again...seen that before. and the external enclosed spring on this pedal can also be rusted up... Instrument panel has been changed out...
 
I’m far from a tractor expert, but from my short stint on this site, this tractor checks many boxes and avoids others. Just recently a member posted about looking at a similar vintage Ford with a SOS trans. Completely different story (avoid like the plague, by and large.)

From what I’ve gathered in reading a lot on this forum, this tractor with these options is hard to beat. A great value overall and very reliable. What I like is there are a ton of resources that help owners repair-maintain-solve problems. It isn’t such a rare breed to which it makes a nightmare to own.

If you don’t mind me asking, what is the asking price on this tractor, and if you’re willing to say the ballpark area it’s in? Just to get a feel for price.
 
That tractor should have a 2 stage clutch and if you can't get the adjustment right with the clutch rod it will require splitting the tractor to repair or replace the 2 stage clutch. As for the smoke when throttled up it depends on the color of the smoke. Some black smoke is normal. Is the diff lock engaged or is the pedal just hanging down and not engaging the diff lock?
The smoke is white, not black.
 
You dont have the "two hole" clevis on the clutch arm, meaning that its be changed out....... or its NOT a live pto, but a transmission pto. It’s got a feb 11 1966 build on the date code you show, for that particular part and it got the wrong decals ( later ones, instead of the early ones.) It should blow black when reving up as normal... How does it start cold?? Are there any bubbles in the radiator with the engine running? what color is the oil? and posting the serial number, model number and dated code will tell us more... on the flat spot just behind the starter, facing up will be the 3 numbers we need. It might be a very nice tractor, just need to see how it’s equipped.... Sitting does not necessary hurt them.. the diff-locking pedal is often stuck and needs a lot of wd40 and working back and forth to get it loose to where it will pop back up again...seen that before. and the external enclosed spring on this pedal can also be rusted up... Instrument panel has been changed out...
If I get back to the tractor I’ll see if I can get another pic. The smoke when revving is white, and I didn’t check the radiator. The oil was new.
 
I’m far from a tractor expert, but from my short stint on this site, this tractor checks many boxes and avoids others. Just recently a member posted about looking at a similar vintage Ford with a SOS trans. Completely different story (avoid like the plague, by and large.)

From what I’ve gathered in reading a lot on this forum, this tractor with these options is hard to beat. A great value overall and very reliable. What I like is there are a ton of resources that help owners repair-maintain-solve problems. It isn’t such a rare breed to which it makes a nightmare to own.

If you don’t mind me asking, what is the asking price on this tractor, and if you’re willing to say the ballpark area it’s in? Just to get a feel for price.
Just under $10k. I am looking for a reliable working tractor, so thank you for the comments. And specifically, what options are you seeing?
 
Just under $10k. I am looking for a reliable working tractor, so thank you for the comments. And specifically, what options are you seeing?
Just under $10k is at least twice what that tractor is worth, unless every system has been completely rebuilt to factory specifications, and even then it would be at least 50% over priced. So if the implements that are included aren't worth at least half of that $10k asking price, I would negotiate down to a fair price or walk away.
 
Just under $10k. I am looking for a reliable working tractor, so thank you for the comments. And specifically, what options are you seeing?
8 speed trans, posi-pedal, nice seat. Some folks are not fond of the field fire horizontal exhaust, but I like it. I tried looking for the power steering pump but don’t see it? The diesel I’m hit or miss on, mostly because I don’t have diesel fuel in my garage and the power difference over gas is minimal I believe.

Price seems steep, especially for a unit that has been sitting for as long as this. Someone has worked on it over the years, gauges reflect that. Sean is accurate with his pricing. And I am forgetting about the implements, what does it come with? The condition of this tractor reminds me of auction machines, and those prices are incredibly less.
 
Just under $10k is at least twice what that tractor is worth, unless every system has been completely rebuilt to factory specifications, and even then it would be at least 50% over priced. So if the implements that are included aren't worth at least half of that $10k asking price, I would negotiate down to a fair price or walk away.
Thank you for the insight on the tractor and pricing! The implements included are a brush-hog, finishing mower, picking boom, and tiller.
 
8 speed trans, posi-pedal, nice seat. Some folks are not fond of the field fire horizontal exhaust, but I like it. I tried looking for the power steering pump but don’t see it? The diesel I’m hit or miss on, mostly because I don’t have diesel fuel in my garage and the power difference over gas is minimal I believe.

Price seems steep, especially for a unit that has been sitting for as long as this. Someone has worked on it over the years, gauges reflect that. Sean is accurate with his pricing. And I am forgetting about the implements, what does it come with? The condition of this tractor reminds me of auction machines, and those prices are incredibly less.
Thank you for the insight on the tractor and pricing! I appreciate you detailing the "options"!
 
Just under $10k is at least twice what that tractor is worth, unless every system has been completely rebuilt to factory specifications, and even then it would be at least 50% over priced. So if the implements that are included aren't worth at least half of that $10k asking price, I would negotiate down to a fair price or walk away.
Those tractors go for 3k to 6k pending on condition and how many people are biding... Sean is correct in that is double the price. That is a NO_GO... And it does not appear to have a live pto for a 1966 model. A 3000 with a front end loader will go for around 7.5k.... White smoke,,,, if very much, is not a good sign... either low compression or bad injectors... Lots of white smoke could be even more problems.... Dont walk, run... away from this tractor.
 
Unless the implements are in like new condition $10000 is way to high, that’s a very early model with no power steering, clutch pedal is to low for live pto, here if the rear tires are good its a $3500-4000 tractor at best
If you want a really good tractor that size look around for a 4000SU, well worth the search
 
Besides being over priced big time, power steering is almost a necessity and a factory rear remote helps too. The white smoke is water vapor and needs to be burned out....hooked to a good plow and work it for a couple of hours. The oil could be clear possibly because the tractor sat for a long time and the crud that detergent oil collects will settle out over time and wind up on the bottom of the oil pan........ besides the comments others have made.....my advice is to keep looking and I am a long time Ford owner/swapper with 2 3000s (one currently) over the years.....and the current one has aftermarket PS and rear remote that I installed.
 
Just under $10k. I am looking for a reliable working tractor, so thank you for the comments. And specifically, what options are you seeing?
I would sell you 2 Ford 3000s for $10,000. Both gas, 8spd, power steering, differential lock. One has a rear set of hydraulic remotes and brand new tires and rear rims on it.
 
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