Continental F244 issues

JohnHine

New User
Hey guys, I am new here. I have a vintage Clark lift truck with a Continental F244 6 cylinder engine with issues. Ever since I can rmember you had to run it half choked or it would quit. As you accelerate it has always sounded as if it is missing, lacking power. Certainly not smooth powerful acceleration. I took the Zenith carb completely apart (model 163285 / 13340A), found lots of rust and sediment, now all clean and all ports\passageways are clear. The carb bowl fills fine with the inline fuel pump installed. Interesting note on the fuel pump, and it has always been this way, it never ever stops running, but I see no bypass line to the tank. Following the carb cleaning I could run the engine with the choke completely open for the first time without it quitting, even at idle. ok...so some progress.
Next I thought it best to replace the spark plugs and set the gap. I noticed there were three different number spark plugs installed out of six, wow. So they are all the same, tried it, still acts like missing and lacks power when accelerating. There is only one adjustable jet on the carb, it makes no difference to this symptom.
So I pulled the distributor cap, filthy. I cleaned all (7) contacts (each wire and the center for the rotor connection) and filed and gapped the points. no change to symptom.
I then decided to do something I probably should not have. I did a lot of digging online and came up with a replacement distributor for the original Delco Remy model 1110060, a new coil, and new plug wires. These parts are all Pertronix brand. I very carefully marked my plug wires at both ends and swapped them out. I found very burned connections at terminals 3 and 5 on the distributor, the spark plug wires have been arcing big time. I paint-marked then removed the distributor only to discover I need an extension shaft to make the Pertronix replacement distributor fit. I reinsalled the distributor with the tang aligned so the rotor was in the same position it was in originally. I did not replace the coil, only the wires, and cleaned the cap, rotor and points (gapped). Now the engine will not stsart. Go figure, dummy. I have everything back to my marks, all the wires are proper, and I have good coil spark and spark at all 6 plugs. I started second-guessing myself and verified the carb bowl is filling with good new clean gas. I wonder if the new wires are having an effect on this, also, when cleaning the center contact inside the distributor cap I may have actually damaged it. I do have spark at all 6 plugs, but perhaps it is poor spark now.
So I am waiting on the extension shaft (per the Pertronix instructions) and plan to replace the coil and new elctronic distributor. I am afraid it will not start but hopefully I am borrowing trouble.
After this small novel I have a few questions, because I work on machine tools for a living not engines, but love learning this stuff. On this engine, is cylinder number one at the water pump\fan end? Need to know so I can time this engine. I also noticed a 1.5 ohm power resistor in the original coil primary circuit, the Pertronix instructions say this resistor is not needed. I also see the original coil is supposedly 20k volts and this new Pertronix is 40k volts, will this be an issue or just make a hotter spark?
Bottom line, what is cylinder number one on an f244 engine? Will I need the 1.5ohm resistor with the new coil? Is a 40k volt coil going to cause issues?
Thank you for your time.
 
Welcome to YT forums and Parts ASAP. #1 is at the water pump end. If the new Pertronix coil measures about 3 ohms across the small terminals, it does not need the resistor. (especially if that is the Pertronix suggestion.) plugs fire at what ever voltage jumps the gap. You lift will not ever see 40K unless a plug wire pulls off! S no grief there either. Jim
 
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Thank you for your quick response, Jim. I want to be sure I get your message though, what did you mean by "!3 is at the water pump end"? Thanks again, this is great.
 
Hello John, welcome to YT! First the number one cylinder is by water pump/fan. Not clearly defined, but you also marked the distributor housing so it is “clocked” back to the original position? That is also part of the equation. I like to use a test light with its lead on a ground and probing the distributor side terminal of the coil. With the ignition on when the points are closed the light should be out. When the points are open the light should be on. When you crank the engine the light should flash on and off. Once you get there it a matter of checking if the coil is putting out a spark that will jump a 1/4” gap and if so, if that is making it to the plugs through the rotor and distributor. What you left out is whether the system is a 6 or 12 volt. I assume since it has a resistor it is a 12 volt system it has a 1.5 ohm coil, this along with the 1.5 ohm resistor make the circuit 3 ohms required for a 12 volt system. Are you trying to get the old forklift to burn rubber? If not the stock coil that has worked for will continue working just fine.
Beyond that you said it ran much better after the carb work. One thing that would be a good idea would be run a compression test. If you think it is misfiring the compression test will assure you that all the cylinders have the capability to carry their part of the load.
 
Thank you for the speedy reply, used red! My bad, it is definitely 12volt system. I love it "burn rubber" ha ha ha, ya and pop a wheelie, ha ha ha. I believe I have the distributor back to within a degree or so of original, i used a paint marker, could be a little error. I did try to rotate the distibutor both ways by great amounts (like 5 degrees or maybe more), no change, no start now. I am really trying to figure out cylinder #1 for timing is really my big question. I get the compression question and can check that for certain. The only part difference from starting to not starting are the new plug wires. I am 100% I put them back to original at both ends, very careful with these things. I am fairly sure the coil throws a 1/4" spark as is. Just trying to do the "easy" stuff to see if I can get it to run smoother. I do believe #3 and #5 cylinders were not getting the same spark due the condition of the connectoions at the distributor cap, they were quite burned from arcing. Thanks again, this site is very cool.
 
Firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4, memory jogger for this is 15 is to young, 36 is to old and 24 is just right. :D Do you know if it had any spark out of the coil after you put it back in?
 
Good question; yes, I had coil spark after I put everything back in, also at all 6 plugs. Carb bowl is full of fresh trusted gasoline. I pl an to replace the distributor when I get the extension shaft, we will see what kind of difference that makes. I can't believe it is that far out of time to make it not start, but I am definitely no engine guy.
 
Good question; yes, I had coil spark after I put everything back in, also at all 6 plugs. Carb bowl is full of fresh trusted gasoline. I pl an to replace the distributor when I get the extension shaft, we will see what kind of difference that makes. I can't believe it is that far out of time to make it not start, but I am definitely no engine guy.
I came across some info I shared with you in a PM “Conversation” see your letter or envelope icon at the top of the page at the right.
 
Accelerator pump...is that like a small "piston" that fits in a bore, it has a shaft that protrudes outside the body of the carb with a hole in it that attaches to a linkage. I can't remember where the other side of the linkage connects at the moment. I do know that part is clean and smooth now. It does seem this is more fuel-related, but I really thought I had the carb cleaned pretty well. But again, I am no carb guy, just learning.
 
Accelerator pump...is that like a small "piston" that fits in a bore, it has a shaft that protrudes outside the body of the carb with a hole in it that attaches to a linkage. I can't remember where the other side of the linkage connects at the moment. I do know that part is clean and smooth now. It does seem this is more fuel-related, but I really thought I had the carb cleaned pretty well. But again, I am no carb guy, just learning.
Yes, or linkage could be internal. Assuming it has one, you should see gas squirt into the barrel every time the throttle is depressed. If it is worn out, cleaning will do no good, and they do wear out.
 
Accelerator pump...is that like a small "piston" that fits in a bore, it has a shaft that protrudes outside the body of the carb with a hole in it that attaches to a linkage. I can't remember where the other side of the linkage connects at the moment. I do know that part is clean and smooth now. It does seem this is more fuel-related, but I really thought I had the carb cleaned pretty well. But again, I am no carb guy, just learning.
The accelerator pumps on many governed industrial engines use a vacuum-operated accelerator pump with no mechanical linkage.

Dunno if that is the case here, but certainly a possibility.
 
An easy way to check distributor placement is to pull the #1 plug and slowly turn the engine over with your finger over the plug
hole. When you feel the compression coming up check the rotor position how it compares to the distributor cap.
 

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