Converting 706 remotes to joystick for loader

[706_from-da_woods]

I have a gas Farmall 706 I bought with a loader. It's plumbed into the rear remotes and isn't very graceful. Would it help to get a joystick to plumb it through? Which remote would I use? The inside one locks in the up or down position, the outer one bounces back to center.

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you want to use the rear remotes at the same time, or when the loader is on. I would go with a power beyond plate. You will have to change the one valve to facilitate this but will be happier in the long run. If you go to just a joy stick from one of the remotes you will have to tie that lever back for constant use as the detent will trip when you reach the end of the loader cylinder stroke whether it is lift or bucket. This will also cause more heat to the oil as the lever will be tied all the time. Heat will be your enemy to the components.

 

[706_from-da_woods]

I don't need the other remotes for anything, the goal is just to get a single joystick mounted up instead of under the seat. The power Beyond has always sounded like an option, but I have never found any documentation how to plumb it in on the older tractors such as this 706.

I was concerned that simply plumbing an existing remote to the front and tying it open would lead to oil overheating....

 

[caterpillar guy]

Those are pretty much your 2 choices. The power beyond goes on the end of your valve stack under the seat then you would run hoses /lines to your joystick valve wherever you mount it. If your valve on the outside does not have an end plate you will need to change that one valve to be like the first one on the stack so oil can flow to your power beyond plate then oil will then get to your joystick valve. Or just tie the one lever open while using the loader then let it loose when not in use. There are lines you can get that still run off from the valve that go to the front on the casting holding the steering column and fuel tank if you look at the side there are either 2 couplers or 2holes there. They may have a plug in them but they are there. They were for use with front mounted implements like cultivators and such. You would still have to tie a lever though. They just fasten on to the top of the valve like the rear lines do.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

If you use an OPEN CENTER joystick valve rated for at least as many GPMs as the tractor can produce so there are no restrictions, the oil will not get appreciably hotter than it already does.

The oil is already flowing continuously through the valve stack under the seat. All you would be doing is sending it on a slight detour through your joystick valve. It is only under pressure when you are operating the loader, and pressure is where the bulk of the heat is generated.

The truth here is, the power beyond setup might be the most elegant way to do this, but it is also the most expensive. Those middle valves aren't getting any easier to find or any cheaper, and the power beyond plate is going to run you at least $210. You're looking at an easy $800 just for the power beyond setup, before you even look at a joystick valve. The old end valve has no resale value because every tractor has one.

If you're lucky you have two middle valves and an end plate, but that was mostly on the real early 06 series. Another option is to eliminate the second remote and install the power beyond in its place. Of course net result is the same as if you just used one remote for your joystick valve.

You can always add the power beyond later. Connecting the joystick to one of the valves and tying the lever back will work just fine for now, or forever if you want.

 

[the tractor vet]

IF you run from a tied back valve to a OPEN CENTER Joy STICK valve there should be no extra heating of the oild qas it will be free flowing when not in use , same as when i hook up my flow rator the oil just flows thru and really does nothing till you start to load the flow rator then i can BUILD HEAT for proper testing and setting of operation pressures . . You can also adjust the detent trip of the valve to hold past a dead headed cylinder for manual trip out that will requier a sharp slap of the lever to kick it out . When you say change the main pressure relief you need to go and readjust the trip of the remotes or they will trip out so soon this is best done on a flow rator. On his tractor if he has the side dash sup[port outlets he can tap into the one for the joy stick supply and leave the other for out the back use and if needed he can just pop the hose for the joy stick plug in and use both for out the back when needed and Block the load up with a NO LOAD blockage for ease of rehooking Or he can dig into his piggy bank and get the other open faced valve and the power beyond drill two holes in the left seat support and have it all. Back when these tractors came out the hyd. system was state of the art and having TWO valves you were a BTO , now as time moves on the )^on up till the late 86 tractors has moved forward and now days ya need 2500 PSI and 50 gal. a min and that is for the little stuff . Case in point my thick headed friend and i have battled over hyd. issues for years , he wanted to mow hay with and old J D 720 ( he is and EX bleed green and yellow guy that went belly up buying GREEN paint and had to stoop down to keep on farming With old red iron . ) anyway the 720 would not lift the 1219 Hay bine with it's skinny one cylinder , now i had both flow rated the system HO and pressure tested it and it is with in specs and i did up the pressure to what i was comfortable with and still not joy , then he wanted to plant corn with it as it does not drink fuel and here again the 720 with a std 3 inch x 8 inch John Deere cylinder with the planter EMPTY it will not life a 7000 No TILL . The 706 at the time when were were still able to get the gas was slow to lift and after testing it was found that at working temp i was down to 8.7 GPM on the pump and the pressure relief was tripping out at just under 1500 so a new 13 GPM pump and a new 2000 Psi relief was upgraded . That would snap the planter up fast and also pop the haybine fast , the old PUTT PUTT ever set up to 1450 was not cutting the mustard . My S/MTA will do 12 GPM at 1450 and it barly will lift the 1219 , I will not use it as it puts way tomuch strain on the key and gear . In days of OLD heavy stuff used larger dia. cylinder and were SLOW due to the LOW GPM of the OLD pumps . But Hyd power back then was vary limited , they raised plows , disc, Culitavtors light corn planted and small grain drills and loaded SMALL buckets of manure . So 10-13 GPM or less was fine and 1200-1400 was enough Make and modle of equipment makes a difference Deere since the 3010and 4010 have had higher Hdy pressure and build there implements as such and OFF color stuff struggles . You get into the 66 sires and they had higher pressure from the get go . BUT here again i have had to go change out the main pressure valve so Farmer X can lift some new piece along with instaling a new pump as the old one was a little on the low side but worked ok on the OLD stuff.

 

[706_from-da_woods]

So it sounds like I'll tie back the right lever (feels like no detent - unless it's out of adjustment) and use the two ports on the right/center column to run a single joystick with an open center. It's just loop out and back in - about a 2 foot total run. It's also got the 17GPM pump.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The valve detents are either worn or out of adjustment, but even if the detents worked, they would not hold the lever as you operated the joystick.

Other than that, sounds like a plan. I think you'll like the joystick control.