cooling system again

[ThundermanND]

It says "no hate speech" but I'm really getting to hate my Ford 8N. As I mentioned before my tractor is overheating so I bought a new thermostat, 160 degree, installed the precious part, and after a few busted nuckles getting the darn hood back together, I just took it out for it's maiden voyage. Dam thing is boiling over so it's back in my garage. This is a new radiator, second thermostat (I know it works because I did the hot water test on my stove). Here is the clicker. I took the hose clamp off the lower hose on the bottom of the radiator and slowly started removing the hose and found the antifreeze is cold, yet the radiator was boiling over. SO, with that being said, I'm looking for help from the braintrust here. I'm now thinking I have a bad water pump. I'm really getting tired of taking the hood off this tractor because nothing fits worth a hoot. What say you smarter than me guys.
Thanks
Alden

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 17:20:32 09/08/18) It says "no hate speech" but I'm really getting to hate my Ford 8N. As I mentioned before my tractor is overheating so I bought a new thermostat, 160 degree, installed the precious part, and after a few busted nuckles getting the darn hood back together, I just took it out for it's maiden voyage. Dam thing is boiling over so it's back in my garage. This is a new radiator, second thermostat (I know it works because I did the hot water test on my stove). Here is the clicker. I took the hose clamp off the lower hose on the bottom of the radiator and slowly started removing the hose and found the antifreeze is cold, yet the radiator was boiling over. SO, with that being said, I'm looking for help from the braintrust here. I'm now thinking I have a bad water pump. I'm really getting tired of taking the hood off this tractor because nothing fits worth a hoot. What say you smarter than me guys.
Thanks
Alden

I'd guess you are overfilling the system and it's simply dumping the excess. Are you SURE it is overheating????

TOH

 

[HFJ]

alden, when i got my 2N, it did the same thing. that, and the sound of boiling when i shut it off, convinced me it was overheating.

i went out and bought a temp gauge, but i also read what the hokie just said - that it was probably just overfilled. i quickly learned what consisted of overfilling, and by not overfilling it, it stopped doing it.

as a result, i put the temp gauge on the back burner. had the hood off this past winter for a variety of tasks, and i thought wtf, might as well install that temp gauge anyway, while it's convenient. i got an upper hose adapter for the sender and put it in.

imagine my surprise to see that gauge NEVER goes above 160 degrees while running.

 

[wellmax99]

Did you buy the hand held temperature gauge.

When it indicates it?s hot, run the red dot in a number of places on the radiator water lines etc,
You may have a stopped up radiator

However if you do not see coolant moving around in the top of the radiator when at operating temp you may have a bad water pump,

Just replace the pump anything but letting that motor get to hot and ruining the motor,

Just leave the hood off until you solve the overheating problem

Let us know what you find wrong, others may need that information in solving their overheating problems,

Is your gauge working properly

 

[JMOR]

Simple/easy/quick check for a clogged radiator is ti disconnect the bottom hose and insert garden hose in filler neck.
Ns run about 15-20 gallons per minute thru radiator.

 

[ThundermanND]

forgot to mention, the radiator is new

 

[ThundermanND]

Positive it is not overfilled. The reason I think it's a pump is that the coolant in the bottom of the radiator is cold. It never even got hot/warm. I took off the bottom hose immediately after the the
boiling stopped. Even if the radiator was overfilled, yes, the excess should come out the overflow but the coolant should be somewhat warm. I'm thinking it's a pump.

 

[Ultradog MN]

No help on your overheating
troubles here.
I just wanted to ask where in ND
are you?
I was kinda, sorta out your way
yesterday - in Brookings, SD.
Picked up a tractor I bought out
there.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:50:06 09/08/18) Positive it is not overfilled. The reason I think it's a pump is that the coolant in the bottom of the radiator is cold. It never even got hot/warm. I took off the bottom hose immediately after the the
boiling stopped. Even if the radiator was overfilled, yes, the excess should come out the overflow but the coolant should be somewhat warm. I'm thinking it's a pump.

nce thermostat is hot enough to open (or no thermostat installed) is is very easy to look into the filler neck and observe the pump flow. Done it many times. You can also remove the top hose and start it & see all the flow you want as it empties radiator in a jiffy (done that too).

 

[Bill M. From Illinois]

I had a motor that I was rebuilding with acorns a critter had stashed in block behind water pump housing. They must of been there a long time.

 

[ThundermanND]

Just an FYI. The radiator is new so should be clean. I should get a temp gauge just so I know what temp it is running at. Before I took it apart and did the restoration, it did seem to run fine, maybe just sitting for a few months with no fluids in the block might have dried out the pump. The old radiator was a disaster so I did get a new one. The pulley on the pump is turning fine so my guess is that internally, it tired out.

Thanks

 

[ThundermanND]

Question. If I drive it down the road for 20 minutes, shouldn't the lower hose show some heat by touch??

 

[ThundermanND]

My father in law had an old John Deere with the steel wheels that he retired an tried running it once every year and found one year the chipmunks or some rodent stored acorns in the rusted out exhaust pipe and when he got the tractor running after pulling it, the crap came flying out the exhaust.

 

[ThundermanND]

We live just west of Fargo, small town of Mapleton. Been to Brookings many times in my days working for Cenex (CHS). Actually in my working days I covered 13 states totally, some Petroleum accounts and some doing architectural work. After retiring 3.5 years ago, for the first year I didn't get any further north from my home than the Fargo airport to pick up a friend, west 10 miles, east 110 (and that was to the farm where I had my tractor), and south 250 miles to attend a retirement party that Cenex had for me. To this day, I despise airports, hotels, restaurants and 10 hour drives. That was about 35 years of traveling.

Where you live?

 

[Indiana Ken]

The lower hose of the radiator is the outlet and even if the water started out at boiling it will be much cooler when sampled at the outlet.

Now, you stated it is boiling: that means when you remove the radiator cap (pressure type @ 3 to 4 psi) you will be greeted by a geyser of steam and boiling water. This is the result of lowering the pressure on water at or above 212 degrees F....is this what you observe? If this reaction is not present when the cap is removed you may be running the radiator in an overfilled state. I run the coolant level in my Ns approximately 1.25" above the radiator tubes; 3.5" below the bottom of radiator fill opening. This space is required for expansion of the coolant as it becomes heated.

If it is indeed boiling over and since your latest testing was conducted without a thermostat I would suspect the water pump.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:45:04 09/08/18)
The lower hose of the radiator is the outlet and even if the water started out at boiling it will be much cooler when sampled at the outlet.

Now, you stated it is boiling: that means when you remove the radiator cap (pressure type @ 3 to 4 psi) you will be greeted by a geyser of steam and boiling water. This is the result of lowering the pressure on water at or above 212 degrees F....is this what you observe? If this reaction is not present when the cap is removed you may be running the radiator in an overfilled state. I run the coolant level in my Ns approximately 1.25" above the radiator tubes; 3.5" below the bottom of radiator fill opening. This space is required for expansion of the coolant as it becomes heated.

If it is indeed boiling over and since your latest testing was conducted without a thermostat I would suspect the water pump.

ote, that I did tell him an easy sure way to determine if the pump is moving coolant. No speculation or guessing required.

 

[Den N Ms]

Thunderman,It could be that it is air locked and not letting antifreeze reach the thermostat to get it hot enough to open ,I have seen that many times some engines even have a air bleed on the thermostat housing.I drill a 1/64" ity bity hole through the stat flapper plate to let the air out of the engine block.Some thermostats have a air bleed hole from the manufacture.Just remove the top hose,take the stat out and drill the hole in it with out fighting that hood.Oh you could start it with the top hose off momentarily to check the water pump (unlikely) slip a curved hose on the head neck to keep anti off the distributor if it is a front mount.

 

[grizz02]

I've seen the impeller just spin on the shaft and not move water usually got froze then started up just throw a pump on it

 

[Ultradog MN]

I'm in the Cities.
Have property just about straight east of you in Aitkin, MN.
Do a bit of deer plotting with my tractors some and hunting there.