Corn planter

DeltaRed

Well-known Member
I've come to the conclusion that I need to update
my corn planter.It's a 1960 +/- JD #70
unit(6row)'.Been a good planter,but starting to
have some issues.I'm done for the year,so a newer
one is not an 'emergency'.Been thinking that maybe
a pull behind might be the way to go.Thinking a JD
7000(4 OR 6 row is fine).Notill is not an
issue.But I need/want disk openers.And I want to
continue to use the SuperM to plant with.I am
going back to 'pre-marking'(bedding),so the
planter will(or should) follow the
marks/furrows.Any suggestions?I was also thinking that an 'older' (small) planter may not be to expencive.There are no pulltypes here(everything is 3point),so it would have to come from 'back east'/midwest here is a pic of
the 'old' one. Thanks,Steve
a157952.jpg

a157953.jpg
 
All our ground is that dry at planting.This field is much clodier than usual.We rely 100% on (mostly) furrow irrigation.A few 'clods' are good,the water 'subs'/soaks better. Too fine it can seal off and not soak,just run through.The 'dobie' soil here tends to make clods.they usually melt down when we irrigate.
 
If the SM will pull the planter with 7 'marker shovels' with ease,it should have no problems.I only plant in 2nd.3rd has enough power,but is too fast.This Sm is turning 55+ hp,wts,fluid,duals....If I need more power,then a turbo 706 or 826 are available.Even a 1256.
 
My dad pulled a 4-row 7000 with dry fertilizer with a 53 super H with belly pump back in the day. He had to stop and shift out of gear to lift it at the headlands but the tractor had no problem pulling it in our hills. In your flat land I would think a Super M would have no trouble especially if you have no fertilizer attachment.
 
Paint it up a bit, cut the bar into 3 weld on three point ears,mount a pair of your units on each, and you can sell that planter to 3 deer plot folk for more than a 7000 costs.....

I'm not really kidding on that.....

Do you want 30 inch or 38 inch rows? Wide is cheaper.

Hyd will be a problem. With fertilizer, my 300, 960, and S77 all could not lift the planter. Took the 2000+ psi of the newer tractors to lift it. All woulda pulled the 4 row, I even put a 4 inch cylinder on and still wouldn't pick it up. Planted corn one year with the NH 1720, 27hp it pulled it ok, lifted it great.

Paul
 
From your pictures, it looks like you broadcast your fertilizer. I don't see why 1000 lb hydraulic pressure would not lift it with just seed in it. They came with double disc openers for the seed. I bought one of the first 7000s that came out and still have it. Mine is a six row. Around here they still bring $3000 to $4000. One good corn crop and they came down quite a bit in price.
Parts are available from Deere.Shoup has some OEM quality parts for significantly less.
Just look it over good. Rebuilt mine a few years ago, it cost $3000 for parts that incluced new dry fertilizer tanks. But it had a lot of acres through it.
 
1250 multiply by the area of the cylinder piston will give how much force you can excert to lifting the planter big enough cylinder it would lift but might be slow
 
A 7000 has issues with the cylinders that lift it. If they go over a hump that is big enough to cause one cylinder to max out on length, it will push out of the barrel and dump it on the ground, till you put the cylinder back together. Was told the 7200 will not do that. Can also get it with either the finger pick up or in vacuum.
As long as you keep the liquid fert on the tractor you might be able to lift it with the SM. I think the 3pt models would be more suited to your corrugated irrigation ground. Since you want to just turn right around and go back next to the last pass. The big guys are buying up the 6-12 row models in the midwest to plant odd shaped fields and small fields driving the price up. If you can use an off brand model like a New Idea or a White you can buy some of those for a bit less. Still have the similar openers to a Deere.
 
I had a 7000 six row 30 for probably 10 years or so and my A Deere and 88 Oliver lifted it with no problems. The lift cylinder was a plain old 3x8 cylinder same as what is on any other implement. Jim
 
Delta , Don,t know how Far east you would come but good pull type 7000s are around and fairly cheap. I am in Tennessee but we run trucks as far west as Oklahoma pretty regular. Will be glad to see what I can find if you want. You will love disk openers after what you have been running.
 
Steve, as Jim (Fixerupper) said his and most of the 4 and 6 row 7000's lifted with the single cylinder although some of the 7000's labeled "conservation" had cylinders that lifted at every wheel.
 
I mainly see pull 7000s in my area (ks). The 6 rows that are field ready generally go for about 5k. There was a guy north that had one all dolled up with Yetter sweeps and extra springs. It was a cream puff. It doesn't look like you need sweeps or anything. Looks like you need rain!
 
In my part of northwest Iowa you can get 7000 6 row's with basic seed and insecticide boxes for somewhere in the $500 per row area or less. They are popular for sweet corn gardens and replanting wet holes but that's about it. In this area we have planters six and eight times bigger than a six row. Jim
 
I have a 4RW 7000. Have used it now for 13 years. But only about 50 acres per year. I upgraded a lot through the years. Better components from Shoup and yetter. Heavy downsprings, yetter 13 wave coulter, bullseye tubes.
It also works well on beans, sunflowers and sorghum. Get one and don't look back.
 
First I"d change those duals to straddle duals so the tires don"t pack the outside row. You can buy spacer bands that clip onto your existing hardware. I don"t understand cat g post on splitting cyl. I"ve had the 8r30 with 4 wheel lift cyls and never experienced any kind of bottoming or blowing out. Running 6r30 now with dry fert.....I"m sure your M would handle bare 7000. Lift is a function of cyl size and pressure. Fert boxes hold 550 lbs each, lifting may be an issue then.
 
We are so dry here we have no compaction problems like you guys do. When I plant onto 'beds',yes the duals come off.The single tire just follows the 'marks'(corrugates).When I plant on top with the furrowers/'marker shovels' on the planter,the duals really help stabilize the whole outfit
 
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