Cornhusker aftermarket 3 point

[8NHENRY]

I recently purchased a 88 Oliver with a Cornhusker 3 point. Is anyone familiar with these? To me the biggest difference I see between this one and the Oliver 3 point is the Cornhusker has 2 cylinders rather than Oliver’s 1 cylinder. Just trying to figure out what I have. Thankyou

 

[Janicholson]

The aftermarket systems, in all cases I know of, do not have any provision for draft control. I do not know if OEM Oliver systems do have it. That hitch system looks well designed and stout. Jim

 

[Hayfarmer]

I have a Cornhusker 3 point on a 560. It works ok for what I have used it for. Mine has 2 one way cylinders on it. As mentioned no load and depth control just lets you use 3 pt stuff on tractor that didn't have it. I also have a Worksaver 3 pt conversion on an SMTA. I like it a little better. A couple years ago I replaced the lift arms (adjustable part) on Worksaver as they were still available, I used the same on on the Cornhusker with a little modification. Worksaver can be set to use down pressure. If you used 2 way cylinders on Cornhusker it could have down pressure but would have it all the time.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Just trying to figure out what I have.

What else are you looking for? There's not much more to it than "Cornhusker 3pt."

In addition to the lack of draft control the geometry is not ideal for pulling a plow. Notice how the 3pt arms extend straight back on this hitch whereas on a factory hitch they are much closer together where they attach to the tractor, and wider at the implement. If you extend an imaginary line forward along each arm to where they cross, they will NEVER cross on this 3pt, but on a factory 3pt they will meet under the belly of the tractor. That point is where you're pulling from. With parallel arms, that point is somewhere out in the depths of space, so a lot of the tractor's power is being used to mash the front end of the tractor into the ground. You want that pull point to be just slightly ahead of the rear axle if I'm not mistaken. About where your drawbar attaches.

Probably way too technical for the purpose of discussion here, but it's all I can think of to add beyond "Hitch goes up. Hitch goes down. Hitch lifts heavy things." LOL.

For a scraper blade, a bale spear, anything but a plow, it really isn't a concern.

 

[8NHENRY]

Thankyou for the replies and you’re right it was really vague. I’m just trying to figure out what I have. I haven’t even got the tractor home yet and haven’t decided if I am keeping the 3 point on or not. We really don’t have much use for the 3 point and it’s a pain in the butt to climb around getting on the tractor. I do like the fact if I remove it the tractor still has the original hitch on it so if I remove it I still have a usable tractor.

 

[used red MN]

With parallel arms, that point is somewhere out in the depths of space, so a lot of the tractor's power is being used to mash the front end of the tractor into the ground. You want that pull point to be just slightly ahead of the rear axle if I'm not mistaken.

Not to argue with you, but I would need some more convincing by geometry or mechanical theory to agree that the lack of intersection of those pull points requires the tractor to expel “a lot” of its pulling power into holding down the front end. The weight transfer and offset of mechanical leverage is far more dependent on the radius of the rear tires and where the pull point is placed on that radius, more commonly referred to as drawbar height, also the anchor point distance behind or in front of the axle centerline. Additionally, in the case of a mounted 3 point implement the distance from the rear axle too the final connection point to the implement and how much lift is being exerted to it is another large factor. Again, in my opinion all the things I mentioned have far more to due with whether the front of the tractor wants to raise. As far as how all these factors use the tractors power I have another whole laundry list of considerations towards that. I could see where the wider spacing of the lower tug pull points could effect the pulling characteristics of the setup while cornering or pulling a draft implement around a curve. Beyond that I don’t think it is going to be terribly detrimental to how it functions. I think a lot of your reply may be based on an “ideal” design.

 

[stevieb49829]

Thankyou for the replies and you’re right it was really vague. I’m just trying to figure out what I have. I haven’t even got the tractor home yet and haven’t decided if I am keeping the 3 point on or not. We really don’t have much use for the 3 point and it’s a pain in the butt to climb around getting on the tractor. I do like the fact if I remove it the tractor still has the original hitch on it so if I remove it I still have a usable tractor.

I understand your point about the add-on 3 point being in the way. But ask yourself if you will, in the future want to use implements that attach to a 3 point, like a back blade, a bale spear, a rotary mower, or anything else that isn't just a "hook it to the drawbar and pull it" implement. steve

 

[paul]

Thankyou for the replies and you’re right it was really vague. I’m just trying to figure out what I have. I haven’t even got the tractor home yet and haven’t decided if I am keeping the 3 point on or not. We really don’t have much use for the 3 point and it’s a pain in the butt to climb around getting on the tractor. I do like the fact if I remove it the tractor still has the original hitch on it so if I remove it I still have a usable tractor.

Once you have a 3pt, you will find many uses for it.

Say what you want but I would plan on keeping it.

Most folks see it as an upgrade.

Paul