Correct timing mark and rotor?

Hey guys. Picked up a new 40 AC B on barter the other day that’s a hand crank model. It hasn’t run in year or decades not quite sure. So I took a day tinkering. Flushed fuel system, cleaned cap and rotor, plugs looked good so just checked their gap and cleaned them and cleaned the points and intake which was gross.

So I got spark and got a little pop a few times. I went back and retimed it as it looked a bit off and put it back together and got it to pop off a few times maybe 2 seconds max. Minus the hand blisters lol I can’t figure out why I can’t get her running. Fresh gas, used ether and checked fuel line going to carb and it was fresh gas coming in. Bowl is held on by a radiator clamp but I don’t think that would effect it as it’s not leaking.

I’ve attached pics of timing and it’s the same as my other B which runs great. Compression stroke, fire line marked up center in hole and rotor pointing approximately to the 10 o’clock position. Hoping my pics come through. It’s not 180 out as it’s for sure on compression checked with my finger.

Any pointers would be great. Getting it to fire at all is a success for me as it might not have run in 5-15 years no one really knows. Sadly she’s farmall red and I bleed Persian orange haha.


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How much tension is in that magneto. If you take it off does the couple want to turn backwards a smidge? If there is now tension that would make the mag pop at the right moment you might now be quite timed right yet. Otherwise, I would clean the carb out really well. If fuel is getting to the carb and you have spark then the carb is your issue.
 
I agree it might need a thorough carb clean and gasket set. Trying to get it idling for a tad longer before I get the rebuild kit. Man hand cranks are a bear. Wonderful when they are maintained but when trying to fire one that hasn’t started in a decade or more they are a bear.

Had to take a break from it today and I’ll get back to it tomorrow.
 
there are times you can crank all day, but give it a pull and she will fire right up. when sitting you need to oil the cyl's to build compression to start it. plus it lubes the rings as everything is bone dry... not good. my WD45 sat for 30 years. was lightly stuck, oiled the cyl's for couple days got her loose checked points and plugs checked timing ,cleaned carburetor and gas tank and she started by hand crank. you should not have to worry about timing being out of wack as it must have been parked running. still should start .
 
Going to rebuild carb. Took it off last night and it was totally clogged up.

I will order a rebuild kit today and hopefully be up in business in a few days.
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You might not need a rebuild kit. If the carb is clean and all passages are open and the float is set right and doesn't have a hole in it it is probably OK. Set the mixture screws at around 1 1/2 turns and it might be OK. If you have any doubts about the magneto take it to Mark's Magneto in Colchester CT. He is the best and will check it out on a test stand while you are there. He has been doing it for years and everyone around here CT,RI takes their mags to him when they have a problem. I had one on my WD last year that had a spark that seemed good but was almost impossible to get the engine running, turned out to be a weak magnet.
 
Thanks Tom

Are you in CT also. I took car off and float pin was seized so that certainly wasn’t helping. I may see mark. I haven’t had a mag checked out in years and didn’t know he was still there. He probably wouldn’t recognize me I had hair then and no white hairs lol

If you in CT or nearby give me a call sometime. Would love to pick you brain
860-554-4111

Sal
 
Well not in CT, but only a mile or two from the CT RI border in Foster RI. Go back down and read my post to your previous post about your B. Will call sometime. If you haven't been to Marks in years he may have moved since your last visit. He is now in Colchester, used to be Lisbon I think, call before showing up to confirm he is open that day.
 
ooh my, I don't even try to start an engine till I clean the carb. buying a gallon of carb gunk is more important than the kit. long as the float is good and not heavy and the needle and seat is good you can make that gasket. that is what I do. soaking it over night is the key , then rinse with water blow out with air and check passages with brake clean.
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Thanks rustred. I already took most apart and it’s rough. I may try making my gaskets as I’ve done that for years on my Oldsmobile’s. Sadly the float pin is totally stuck but float isn’t heavy or look perforated. Soaking the pin now in pb blast then going to totally disassemble and soak in carb clean.

Wish me luck I’ll try to get more pics ASAP if float pin
 
FOREVER
You can check the float by submerging it in hot water for a minute or two. If no bubbles come out of it your good to go.
 
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