Correction: Rotor binds on Distributor Cap

Sorry typo in subject line last Post:

Just want to put this out for some more feed back. Just got home from work and ready to tackle this issue. Any other thoughts.....I posted this last night also. Thanks !

I"ve changed my points, condenser and rotor and cap on my front mount distributor for 1941 9n. I notice that by turning the the shaft by hand with the cap on, the rotor gets hung up on the 3 and 4 contacts on the bottom half of the cap. The shaft does not seem to have excessive side to side play. In examining the old cap there are small groves on these same contacts which seems to indicate that the rotor "self" adjusted the contacts. The top two contacts are not grooved. Should I file down the contacts on the new cap? Is my explanation of the problem clear.?

Thank You

JIm
 
I just rebuilt a distributor that had some binding issues. I put new bushings in it and when I would tighten down the timing screw to secure the breaker plate I couldnt turn the rotor by hand. I finally put the assembled distributor in the drill chuck and clamped the drill in a vice and used a dial indicator see what was out of line. It was the bracket that holds the top bushing it was bent out of alignment
 
(quoted from post at 03:47:36 05/28/10) Sorry typo in subject line last Post:

Just want to put this out for some more feed back. Just got home from work and ready to tackle this issue. Any other thoughts.....I posted this last night also. Thanks !

I"ve changed my points, condenser and rotor and cap on my front mount distributor for 1941 9n. I notice that by turning the the shaft by hand with the cap on, the rotor gets hung up on the 3 and 4 contacts on the bottom half of the cap. The shaft does not seem to have excessive side to side play. In examining the old cap there are small groves on these same contacts which seems to indicate that the rotor "self" adjusted the contacts. The top two contacts are not grooved. Should I file down the contacts on the new cap? Is my explanation of the problem clear.?

Thank You

JIm

I've recently run into a couple of those almost right aftermarket caps that have the contacts machined off center. You can remove a little material from the offending contacts or get a different cap. Since they are machined off center, be aware if you remove a little material from the two contacts that hit it will work ok, but the other two contacts will have an excessive gap. Probably never be noticeable as long as you have a strong spark, but those 2 contacts and the rotor tip may suffer increased burning from the arc.
 
I also have one of those "almost-right" caps from this web site. One of the four contacts hits the rotor. Never would have noticed it except for the fact that I had a new distributor in my hand at the time. Put the cap on and found the problem. I'm still using the old Motorcraft cap on my '51 as a result. Go figure .. .

Dave Erb
New Holland, PA
 
In these old machines,almost anything can and eventualy will happen,especialy when almost all parts are foreign made.I had the same prob with Eclin parts,bought a new cap& rotor,and rotor broke,had to put old pts back on[cleaned up]Napa exchanged,but thy're still in the boxes.---lha
 
The least expensive to fix reason for that is the screw locking the timing adjustment can be too loose, or perhaps too tight and keeping the breaker plate out of line. Try tightening or loosening that screw a tad and see if that FREEBEE fixes the problem.

Another one is the "cheap cap" problem already mentioned. Simple, put old cap back on and buy a better replacement next time.

Make sure you are running a gasket under the cap and it is not crooked or kinked.

Then we get into bent internal parts, bad bushings, etc. Hopefully yours will respond to one of the cheap fixes.
KL
 
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