Cracked block and wrong carb

[Brodes]

Hello all,
There has been a couple of recent posts concerning cracked blocks and I guess that I have a question about repairing mine. I have a TEA-2085 and my block has a crack on the right side of the engine that was brazed at some point in time by someone. How or why it is cracked is ancient history but now that I am running her more often I notice that coolant weeps from the attempted repair which I do not care for.
I am familiar with several types of repair mediums as we use similar materials in the marine industry but my concern is stopping the crack. I know that I need to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from continuing but how deep? Do I just break the surface or drill until I strike water?
Also you will see in the pictures that my carb is different. At least I am assuming it is wrong since it looks different than all of the photo's I have seen on this site. Again, I don't know why or how and it seems to be working alright though I have a strange little skip every now and then and I wonder if it is the carb.
Any advice or comments are always apreciated.

Mark

 

[Jerry/MT]

The purpose of stop drilling a crack is to put a relatively large radius at the end of the crack all the way through to the depth of the crack. The larger radius of the drilled hole (~1/8") , relative to the crack tip radius(thousands of an inch) reduces the local stress and keeps the crack from propagating.

It looks like yours was a brazed repair,which should be pretty good IF the repair was done properly. The crack should have been stop drilled, ground out a bit and cleaned well, then brazed. If its in an area where there is just a water jacket, then an epoxy repair is just as good.

Sorry can't comment on your carb. But I would advise you to make sure that you have FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, before you blame the carb for the problem. Most problems with poor running are found, on investigation, to be caused by a weak spark.

 

[Brodes]

Thanks for the reply. I am assuming the braze was good at one time but with the crack extending past it, I also assumed that a stop hole wasn't done.

I have also taken your past advice and I do have a great spark after replacing a few of the electrical items. The skip is more of a flutter and it may only be me listening too closely.

I will try the epoxy repair once it warms up outside.

Mark

 

[Brodes]

Thanks for the reply. I am assuming the braze was good at one time but with the crack extending past it, I also assumed that a stop hole wasn't done.

I have also taken your past advice and I do have a great spark after replacing a few of the electrical items. The skip is more of a flutter and it may only be me listening too closely.

I will try the epoxy repair once it warms up outside.

Mark

 

[Jerry/MT]

What is the condition of the distributor shaft/bushing? They wear and if the wear gets large enough the shaft wobbles and it can effect the point dwell. Rotate the engine until the points are closed and the push radially(from the side) on the distributor shaft, observing the points. There should be no motion at the points. Push side ways from several directions, observing the points. If you see motion at the points then your distributor may need to be rebushed.
Are your valves adjusted properly? If the lash is off on a valve it can effect the performance of the cylinders with the incorrect valve lash.

You can also try to adjust the idle mixture screw incrementally first enriching by 1/8 turns and then trying to lean it by 1/8 turns.

These propblems are somewaht nagging and usually don't effect the part throttle performance where it's more important to not have a miss.

I'm sorry I can't give a more direct answer to you question.

 

[Brodes]

That seems pretty direct to me. I have never checked valve lash before but the other items I can do quite easily. I will give them a try, thanks.

Mark