Cub 154 engine swap project

[Gumbert1542]

I?ve had a cub 154 for a year now that I picked up cheap. Runs ok but looking for a winter project and decided to do an engine swap. The new engine will be a four cylinder Isuzu diesel have from a genset. Size wise they are close. RPMs will be similar etc. My biggest challenge will be setting up the hydraulics. I plan on running a pump off the auxiliary drive. Question is is when I run the plumbing I plan on using a separate reservoir from the rear end. Will this effect the oiling of the gears? I suspect it?s more of a submersion oiling going on in the rear end vs. return flow bathing the gears? Sound right? Any help or interest would be greatly appreciated.

Ps.
Should have a decent running stock motor for a 70?s cub available soon

 

[Janicholson]

Cubs use 90wt gear oil in the trans and drop boxes. You would be putting a thin modern hydraulic/transmission oil in the trans. The seals may decide to leak, and the gears might spin for a long time when shifting. The trans would need to be cleaned out spiffy to avoid contamination. The best advice I can give would be to use the original hydraulic lift system. If it is in the road, a reservoir could be made to fit in that middle loction. Jim

 

[John M]

Jims info is incorrect, as you know, for the 154. My question would be why change what works, just use the transmission housing like it is? But to answer your question, the return line is on top of the shifter cover, so return fluid does bath the gears, BUT I get what youre saying. Those are the same gears in a regular Cub, so I would tend to think it would be ok.

 

[Gumbert1542]

The reason I?m asking is I?m weighing the options for hydraulics. The old system works well but the pump is about worn out on this one. So I was going to change the pump as I went along. Which like any project will be something aftermarket to mesh with the gearing on the engine. Was thinking between two options.

1- use the stock plumbing routing and reservoirs (fear with this is too much flow and fluid getting hot, and pumping heavy weight oil through a new high pressure pump has me nervous)

2- building a completely separate hydraulic system with its own reservoir and caping off the trans/ rear end with a breather. In this option the biggest question is will it lube the gears proper??

 

[Gene Davis (Ga.)]

An oil cooler would help with the heat from the excess use and flow. Some autos used to have an external cooler on the power steering that were connected by hoses in the line.

 

[John M]

1. Wouldn't be an issue if you got a smaller pump. Maybe find one close to the IH pump. Hytran is pretty thin. The only other issue would be the filter wouldn't be filter the fluid.

2. Should be fine. Youll have to rig up something on the return line on top of the trans cover, but that should be simple enough.The trans is basically the same as a regular Cub. Again, though, the fluid wouldn't be getting filtered.

 

[Gumbert1542]

Good idea there. Plus side to all this is the engine I?m swinging in has it?s own radiator and fan. Adding a hydraulic cooler shouldn?t be an issue. I?m new to the forums is there somewhere else I should be posting this type of thing? Haven?t found any cub 154 threads but didn?t really search that hard

 

[Duner Wi]

My IH manual for 154 says you can use 80 wt or Hy Tran for temp consistently below 40 F.
Or use 90 wt or Hy Tran for temps consistently above 40f. I have seen where not all IH manuals have exact same info in them for same tractor.

 

[Janicholson]

I didn't know a 154 used the transmission for a reservoir. Live and learn. Jim

 

[John M]

My doesn't say that. Well, it does. but it says if its not equipped with hydraulics either can be used.

 

[John M]

THeres really not that many "numbered Cubs" threads here, but most will be found on the Farmall forum. Many people don't consider the 154s, or their brothers, classics so not many threads. There was a group on Yahoo for the numbered series, but it may be gone now. There is also a numbered series forum on farmall cub dot com.

 

[T.R.K.]

Just use a separate hydraulic reservoir and put 90wt. (GL-1) in the trans. That's the same fluid that was in all the old Farmall Cubs had and since it has the same gearbox it should be fine.

P.S. I am thinking (actually I am pretty sure) that there is a return elbow in the shift cover on top of the transmission that you will want to plug off. You could even put a small wire bottle brush in the elbow to keep the mud daubers out and it would work as a vent.

I was looking at doing something similar with what I think is a 154, but may be a 185, except the engine I was putting it was a UC-60 power unit, which still has the Farmall A style grille with oversize radiator on it. I got it running but never worked the hydraulics out. Its still out in the shed and I may finish it one day. I even put independent brakes on it so it would be more like a tractor than a lawn mower.

It would be great if you would post some pictures when you finish.

 

[Gumbert1542]

Ok so calling it a night. What I got accomplished
-engine pulled
- old wiring removed
- frame notched
-motor mounts made
-new motor mocked up in frame
-driveline mounted

I added some pictures (ignore the mess). Still have a real long way to go but got a good start on it. Let me know what you guys think or if you have suggestions etc. always welcomed

 

[Gumbert1542]

(quoted from post at 19:32:14 12/07/19) Just use a separate hydraulic reservoir and put 90wt. (GL-1) in the trans. That's the same fluid that was in all the old Farmall Cubs had and since it has the same gearbox it should be fine.

P.S. I am thinking (actually I am pretty sure) that there is a return elbow in the shift cover on top of the transmission that you will want to plug off. You could even put a small wire bottle brush in the elbow to keep the mud daubers out and it would work as a vent.

I was looking at doing something similar with what I think is a 154, but may be a 185, except the engine I was putting it was a UC-60 power unit, which still has the Farmall A style grille with oversize radiator on it. I got it running but never worked the hydraulics out. Its still out in the shed and I may finish it one day. I even put independent brakes on it so it would be more like a tractor than a lawn mower.

It would be great if you would post some pictures when you finish.

Your right on the elbow return on top of the trans. Napa sells a case breather that would fit right in there for like 8 bucks. I ll add in a pipe adapter and it should work. Independent brakes would be nice. Once this engine swap is done I ll rip it back apart in the spring for paint.

 

[Gumbert1542]

May not be a classic but still a decent little work horse for pulling carts. I actually built a 3 point to fit a 5 foot box blade. Headed my driveway nicely. I will say though the engine in it was a little weak for that. Keeping in mind it s a tired old 73. Hence the diesel swap lol.

 

[Gumbert1542]

Drive line adaptor made from the flex plate off the diesel motor (losing my pto)

Other pics of the drop in if they load should show too

 

[Rex Simpkins]

Very interesting, we had a 154 lo-boy bought new, it really was the most comfortable mower to drive and sit on and did a great job of mowing (if you never let the grass get any higher that a golf cousre putting green). I always thought IH had a great idea and that if they could have used a 140 (C-123) engine it would have been a great machine. I am anticipating your final result

 

[John M]

Nicely done. I do have to ask, why would you be losing the PTO, no room for the pulley on the drive shaft? Also, looks to me like the oil filter, if that's what it is, may not come off, is clearance there an issue?

 

[dhermesc]

My fear would be sending to much power to the transmission. The tiny flat head 4 only had 13-15 hp - they didn't even put it behind the 16hp Kohler engines in the bigger cub cadets.

 

[Keith True]

I've owned a couple of those tractors,and have worked on a LOT more.The dealer used to say that IH took a nice little tractor,and butchered it into the 154.I think what you are doing will make a nice little tractor.My biggest gripe with those tractors is that stupid clutch setup.You can actually compress the pressure plate springs with your thumbs.I had a real sweetheart of one,cab,3 point hitch,mower,snowblower,front blade,rear blade and york rake.It belonged to a private school and had very little wear on it.They said it was too tedious to use because it was so underpowered. They bought a big Wheel Horse that would work circles around it.

 

[Gumbert1542]

That?s how it always goes though. Upgrade or modify something and the next weakest part will show itself. Not sure where this project will take me. Possibly a 4 cylinder diesel cub 154 with a 5 speed and rear end from an f250? Lol. That?s the fun of it though

 

[Gumbert1542]

I wish I could find deals like that!!! When I can?t I build my own lol. I really want to do a cab at some point once I get the majority of this tractor restored and beefed up. Was there actually room inside or is it like sitting inside a convection oven in the summer? And yes the clutch is a joke and I believe it?ll be the next weak point in this build. Luckily the guy before me had put brand new discs and bearing in it and the PTO. Along with a super clean deck with all
New bearings, spindles and blades.

Mine came from a farm in Maryland. Crazy part is a bad two of the Isuzu Diesel engines and the guy was looking for one so I traded it for the tractor. All and all with random parts and building a 3 point I?m into this tractor for about 300 bucks. Which makes it easier mentally to cut weld and modify on it

 

[Gumbert1542]

(quoted from post at 08:10:53 12/08/19) Nicely done. I do have to ask, why would you be losing the PTO, no room for the pulley on the drive shaft? Also, looks to me like the oil filter, if that's what it is, may not come off, is clearance there an issue?

Well the initial mock up has room for a PTO pulley it s just a matter of finding the right one and milling it out to receive the drive shaft. My original plan was to use as much of the original parts as I could and didn t realize till I pulled the engine that the engine pulley and harmonic dampener on the back were one machined piece.

Good eye on the oil filter too. That s another modification I m working on today. Notching and reinforcing the frame vs moving the oil filter location(hard to do)

The steering set up had to be dropped 4 inches as well to clear the oil pan on the new engine

 

[Gumbert1542]

Stay tuned. I ll be needing input from everyone. Once this is all done I plan on doing a build page and how to with all the issues I ran into. FYI for the cub 154 guys these little Isuzu engines are really easy to find and sometimes cheap to free. Every almand tow behind job site heater had one in it. And typically the heater and generator side died long before the engine gave up. With the price of parts and the move to safer "flameless" heaters especially in the oilfield a lot of them were sent for scrap. Gotta love getting perks from the safety minded side of the world

...safety squints engaged!

 

[Gumbert1542]

Tonight?s update. Engine is set temporarily drive shaft hooked up. Ran temporary fuel and electric for a start to see if this is even feasible. Took it around the field a couple times. Speeds are very similar to a stock cub. Steering feels ok so far a little heavier than stock with the added weight. Now to pull it all back apart and weld everything up neatly/paint etc. no real
Pictures to update but I?ll have more as I get further along

 

[Keith True]

That cab has plenty of room.It goes out to the outside of the fenders,so you have elbow room.The only tight spot is getting your feet in the lower part of the door.Once you're in you're fine.The heater could have been placed better,but that was done at the school,not the dealers.Front and rear glass was removable,as are the doors.So in the summer you really just have a sunshade over you.Because of the condition I got real good money for that tractor,when you get 30 calls in two days you know you advertised it too cheap.The IH dealer used to say that is a tractor everybody thinks they want and need to have until they own one.The only place that tractor really shined was pulling a york rake,scraper blade,and a yard cart.The snow blade worked well if you didn't let it pile up over 4 or 5 inches.And you HAD to use chains to do that.

 

[Gumbert1542]

(quoted from post at 06:39:01 12/09/19) That cab has plenty of room.It goes out to the outside of the fenders,so you have elbow room.The only tight spot is getting your feet in the lower part of the door.Once you're in you're fine.The heater could have been placed better,but that was done at the school,not the dealers.Front and rear glass was removable,as are the doors.So in the summer you really just have a sunshade over you.Because of the condition I got real good money for that tractor,when you get 30 calls in two days you know you advertised it too cheap.The IH dealer used to say that is a tractor everybody thinks they want and need to have until they own one.The only place that tractor really shined was pulling a york rake,scraper blade,and a yard cart.The snow blade worked well if you didn't let it pile up over 4 or 5 inches.And you HAD to use chains to do that.

Do you have any other pictures of that cab? It s a down the road project but something I want to fab up. Seems like a lot of the cabs are a little different. The one on yours looks the biggest I ve seen

 

[Keith True]

That is the only picture of that tractor I have.The tractor was ordered set up like that,I would assume the cab was installed by the dealer.It was a brand name,I remember the tag
on it but not the maker.it had fabric pieces fitted in front of the pedals and around the 3 point hitch.The hitch arms actually hit the fabric,and it went up and down with
them.Knowing what I knew about those tractors,I STILL bought that one because of the condition.In the dozens of those I worked on I can't remember working on any motors.Lots of
clutches,intermediate shafts and the splined flanges.Quite a few transmissions,but they are simple and the parts are(or were),pretty cheap.I've welded up quite a few of the
steering box mounts,and added another piece to support them better.Now I'm told there is an aftermarket piece available to do that.The dealer here in town sold a lot of them,but
he was pretty sour on them himself.He made lots of wise remarks to us mechanics.He would say if your grass looks like it needs cutting it is probably too late for the 154.

 

[Gumbert1542]

Quick update. Engine is mounted. Modified the fuel tank to fit in the way smaller space 4.5 gallons now. Driveshaft set up. Radiator in etc. drive it around for a few runs and found a worn tie rod end the hard way. (Hamilton bob to the rescue). Mocking up gauges and wiring now. All is going well at this point.

Also found the exact specs for the engine that I installed. It runs 38hp at 3k rpm and makes a max torque of 79ft/lbs at 2000 rpm.

The end game for this tractor will be a PF engineering home built front end loader and hoe for the rear end

Attached an extremely short video from the first test run. I have a lot of work to go yet but she runs and moves (ignore the garage mess it needs cleaned bad!)