cub won't start

need some help to make the parade! 1950ish farmall cub: had no compression so removed head and reworked the valves that were sticking. all together now with new points, plugs, wires, coil as well. I reset timing as described in manual. Have compression now and will backfire very loudly when cranking but will not start and run. what am i missing?
 
Did you check for a good blue spark?
With your hand over the carb inlet, Do you have good suction?
Has the oil bath in the air cleaner been cleaned and also check the screen on the breather cap sticking out of the hood.
Do you have good gas flow when you pull the drain plug on the bottom of the carb?
 
i did remove the distributor. I kinda believe there is something in this as well. I reset the distributor according to manual but again no start except for the backfire blast. As i moved the distributor more to the right to where the grease fitting is almost pointing at ground the backfire is getting louder but my wire from distributor to coil is out of slack.
 
Just went thru this on a 1957 Loboy. I had carefully marked my plug wires with what I thought was a logical marking code. Except that a year later I misread my logic and put the wires on out of sequence which puts it out of time no matter what you did in putting the engine back together. Check your wires and start over on the basic timing of the assembled engine per the manual. Mine backfired like crazy when I cranked it over.
 
You need to remove No1 sparkplug near the radiator. Hold a thumb over the plug hole while a helper slowly hand cranks the engine until you feel compression against your thumb.

Have the helper to keep cranking the engine until your timing marks are aligned. If you're able to drop a long plastic straw on top of the piston when you feel pressure watch the straw rise until it quits rising and your piston should at TDC on the compression stroke.

Remove the cap on the distributor and see where the rotor is pointing. If it's not pointing at the No1 plug tower you need to pull the distributor and rotate the rotor so its at the No1 plug tower around 2 o'clock and reinstall it. The wires should be in this firing order on your cap: Hal

2-1
4-3 as the rotor rotates CW
 
(quoted from post at 00:18:20 10/04/11) You need to remove No1 sparkplug near the radiator. Hold a thumb over the plug hole while a helper slowly hand cranks the engine until you feel compression against your thumb.

Have the helper to keep cranking the engine until your timing marks are aligned. If you're able to drop a long plastic straw on top of the piston when you feel pressure watch the straw rise until it quits rising and your piston should at TDC on the compression stroke.

Remove the cap on the distributor and see where the rotor is pointing. If it's not pointing at the No1 plug tower you need to pull the distributor and rotate the rotor so its at the No1 plug tower around 2 o'clock and reinstall it. The wires should be in this firing order on your cap: Hal

2-1
4-3 as the rotor rotates CW




FYI, his description of the firing order above is as if you were looking directly at the distributor cap mounted on the distributor (looking toward the front of the tractor). Good Luck!!!!
 
thanks i will check.. just to make sure on the rotor button/cap which side of this should point to 2 oclock...is it the short side or the side with the longer metal arm extended out?
 
Hal,
I am a little fuzzy on the TDC. I have been using TDC as to have the valve closest to the raidiator in the up position? Should i not be using the valve but instead the Piston next to the radiator? just to be clear i have 8 valves and only 4 pistons. Help clear the cobb webbs on this one as i think i am close to the fix.
thanks
 
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