will-max dairy
Well-known Member
And this would agree with my "smell tests"Assumption 1: This heating element is in fact three phase, and is intended to be used with a phase-to-phase voltage of 208 volts.
Assumption 2: We'll assume that the heating element is delta, although what it looks like internally doesn't matter. It could actually be wye with a disconnected neutral.
Assumption 3: You wish to power it with three phase power with a phase-to-phase voltage of 240 volts.
When performing three-phase calculations, we always convert a delta configuration to its wye equivalent. That way we can just work with a single phase. The wye equivalent of 208V phase-to-phase delta is 120V phase-to-neutral wye. (208 divided by the square root of three)
Checking our work against the published specs for your heater, at 66.6 amps the power per phase is 8040 watts. (120V times 66.6 amps) The total power is 24,120 watts, which agrees with your 24 kW spec.
The wye-equivalent phase resistance is 1.8 ohms. (120 divided by 66.6)
The wye-equivalent phase-to-neutral voltage for 240 volts phase-to-phase is 139 volts. (240 divided by the square root of 3).
The current per phase is 77 amps. (139 divided by 1.8)
The power per phase is 10,700 watts. (139 times 77). Total power will be 32 kilowatts. (10,700 times 3)
For power, power is proportional to the square of the voltage.
240 squared over 208 squared is about 1.33... multiply that by 24KW and you get 32KW.
For current, current is proportional to the voltage.
240 over 208 is about 1.15... multiply that by 66.6A and you get 77A
And yes...
The current should go "UP"... and yes... it SHOULD be as simple as what you just calculated.
With some big IFs...
IF the internal wiring of the equipment can safely accommodate the different configuration.
IF the OP can correctly identify the equivalent phases to connect to.
IF there is no other chance for botching a connection
Math is simple, but not everything in life is reduced to math alone.
We haven't seen a picture of the pot... or even a picture of the wiring box on it... you know, like when you wire up a motor... you open up the junction box on the side; and there are detailed instructions for how to wire it for 120, 240... whatever. We can make assumptions about how it's connected to make the math work. But we need to say that they are assumptions and they need to be verified.
I've said my peace. It's time to let others roll their dice and move their mice.
PS... no baiting was ever intended...and I've done plenty of wiring as a non-electrician... so, I get that we all do a little cowboy engineering...but when people start throwing actual numbers at a non-electrician...then all assumptions should be stated clearly. This is a serious amount of power, the consequences of a miswiring are much more catastrophic than wiring the ammeter on the dash of your 2N Ford backwards...
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