So, my PTO shaft only moves about 3/4 inch with prying and then stops hard... I have the monkey bar front loader that is in the way of getting a sawzall in the inspection cover hole to cut the shaft.. Has anybody used one of the vibratory tools with a metal blade to cut the shaft?
Forgot about extended reach air driven cutoff tools.. I picked up a cheap one at Harbor Freight with the 3 inch wheel.. I figured a 4 inch wouldn't fit and I was right.. The 3 inch gave me just enough room to work with it.. I laid over the back of the tractor (top cover is off) and put the cutoff tool in from the right side (dipstick) inspection port (I am right handed).. It took me about an hour and a half to get through it but it only used up about half of the first wheel. The 3 inch Harbor Freight tool was a little under powered so that was one reason it was slow going.. Just had to keep patient and work with it. I have a big 80 gallon twin cylinder compressor and it had to cycle quite a number of times..
Next up is to drop the pump and clean/rebuild as needed. It looks like it has been done in recent past as clean as it looks...
Next up is to drop the pump and clean/rebuild as needed. It looks like it has been done in recent past as clean as it looks...
Thanks for letting me know that.. I hadn't seen that anywhere.. I guess I thought the PTO shaft stopped just in front of the pump... Back to the drawing boards.. Will put the transmission cover and have a look see there.. I will go back and try to find a cutaway view of the tractor gears and shafts...
Got it... It was really only the hydraulic top cover that needed to come off and I already had that off for the rebuild of the lift mechanisms... I found a bit more info on cutting the shaft and studied a bunch of the assemblydrawings.. I see what was meant about cutting it in front of the pump.. At this point, I don't know what was holding it but according to an old thread, Zane seemed to infer that it might come out without cutting in front of the pump, just behind them pump like I have already done.. Anyway, I will start by trying to pull the pump and if it won't come out, I will look at cutting in front of the pump... Looks like the pump needs to move back a little anyway to cut in front....
his from Wild Horse post ~2009:
Generally the twist is ahead of hyd pump where PTO coupler slips over shaft. This twist keeps the shaft from sliding reward through the hyd pump splines. Due to close spacing of pump to PTO coupler, you can't access shaft ahead of pump to cut it, so you have to cut it aft of pump and remove the pump with the cut off piece of shaft still in it. Then once out of tractor, cut it again in front of pump, but aft of twist, so that you can then remove the cut off piece out the rear of pump. Often, if not always, the pump still will not come out with the length of shaft sticking out the front, so then the tractor must be split and then cut the shaft (front of pump), with torch or saws-all once drive shaft removed to allow saw access. Save removing top cover, by grinding splines away, since no saw access needed with spline grinding approach.
I checked it out more tonight. It got dark too early to see if I could get the pump out but I was able to move the pto shift rail back and forth easy so with it forward I assume the coupler is disengaged from the remaining piece of PTO shaft in front of the pump. I guess that is one piece of good news.. Tomorrow I try to pull the pump out and see how far I get with that...
Agreed.
I had the transmission cover off when I did my 51, apparently for a different reason. Cannot recall.
It was necessary to remove the PTO engagement mechanism in order to remove the pump after torching the PTO shaft aft.
After pump removed, could not remove PTO shaft stub from pump so cut PTO shaft in front of pump, tapered both ends a bit with an angle grinder, and drove it out with a 12 Lb. sledge on a hedge stump. Took
best part of an hour. I expected the hammering to destroy the pump but nothing to loose at that point and, being properly backed up, it did not hurt it.
Not a fun project and will not do it again.
Dean
I had the transmission cover off when I did my 51, apparently for a different reason. Cannot recall.
It was necessary to remove the PTO engagement mechanism in order to remove the pump after torching the PTO shaft aft.
After pump removed, could not remove PTO shaft stub from pump so cut PTO shaft in front of pump, tapered both ends a bit with an angle grinder, and drove it out with a 12 Lb. sledge on a hedge stump. Took
best part of an hour. I expected the hammering to destroy the pump but nothing to loose at that point and, being properly backed up, it did not hurt it.
Not a fun project and will not do it again.
Dean
Cannot the details of cutting the shaft in front of the pump in order to get the pump out but do remember that iti was necessary to unbolt (remove?) the PTO engagement mechanism to gain clearance and do remember that it was not necessary to split the tractor.
Shaft was cut with a torch fore and aft by someone who know what he was doing (not me).
Dean
Shaft was cut with a torch fore and aft by someone who know what he was doing (not me).
Dean
Success, the pump is out and the piece of shaft is out of the pump... I did not have to split the tractor.. What I did was take the bolts out of the pump cover and slide it back.. I couldn't get it back far enough for the front of the shaft to pull out of the PTO coupler.. After studying it for a while, I removed the valves and the valve rocker arm at the back of the pump. That let me slide it back enough to see the shaft between the pump and the PTO coupler.. It still did not give me enough room to cut the shaft in front of the pump as it hit the valve rocker pivot pin. Fortunately, the pin can be tapped out once you remove the cotter pin on the bottom of it. Once the pivot pin was out, I was able to slide the pump back far enough to get about 1 1/4 inches of clearance between the pump and the PTO coupler.
I didn't have enough room to get a saw in there so it was time to break out the torch.. To avoid too much heating of surrounding parts, it took several passes with the cutting torch and of course I had to periodically put the fire out in the oil and sludge at the bottom.. Anyway, I used water so that I could periodically cool down the pump and the PTO coupler in between cuts on the PTO shaft piece with the torch... Once the shaft was cut it took a bit of wiggling to get the pump out.
I then used a sawzall to cut the shaft as close to the pump as I could. It still took quite a bit of grinding the end of the shaft to be able drive it back out through the pump...
The biggest concern I have is whether the PTO coupler got to hot in the process. The slide seems to be more stiff and I am not sure what there are for bearings or seals in there.. Back to the books to see what I can find... I am not too worried about the pump as I will be rebuilding it anyway...
I didn't have enough room to get a saw in there so it was time to break out the torch.. To avoid too much heating of surrounding parts, it took several passes with the cutting torch and of course I had to periodically put the fire out in the oil and sludge at the bottom.. Anyway, I used water so that I could periodically cool down the pump and the PTO coupler in between cuts on the PTO shaft piece with the torch... Once the shaft was cut it took a bit of wiggling to get the pump out.
I then used a sawzall to cut the shaft as close to the pump as I could. It still took quite a bit of grinding the end of the shaft to be able drive it back out through the pump...
The biggest concern I have is whether the PTO coupler got to hot in the process. The slide seems to be more stiff and I am not sure what there are for bearings or seals in there.. Back to the books to see what I can find... I am not too worried about the pump as I will be rebuilding it anyway...
You have my respect.
Your ordeal conjurs up memories that I would rather forget.
I would not worry about the coupler and there are no seals in the sump near the PTO coupler.
I would advise you to inspect your aftermarket pump parts well. I've BTDT and found that most used OEM pistons and chambers are better than the aftermarket replacements even ignoring the interference problems
introduced by aftermarket chambers.
Dean
Your ordeal conjurs up memories that I would rather forget.
I would not worry about the coupler and there are no seals in the sump near the PTO coupler.
I would advise you to inspect your aftermarket pump parts well. I've BTDT and found that most used OEM pistons and chambers are better than the aftermarket replacements even ignoring the interference problems
introduced by aftermarket chambers.
Dean
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