Cyl sleeve/liner install tools?

[docmirror]

I have two of the liners out of my IH model H engine, and will have the other two liners out tomorrow. However, I haven't found the sleeve/liner install tool and I'm not really interested in pounding the spit out of it with a block of wood. Do you have the proper install tool needed? Will you rent it to me? Where can I buy it?

Before you ask, I've contacted several engine shops and they can only do Detroit Diesel 53, 71 or Cummins diesel engine found in the common 6 cyl truck engine.

If I have to use the 4x4 and hammer, is there something I should know, or do in advance of pounding the spit out of it? Should the liner be left in the freezer for a few days? Dry ice soak?

 

[Janicholson]

I have two of the liners out of my IH model H engine, and will have the other two liners out tomorrow. However, I haven't found the sleeve/liner install tool and I'm not really interested in pounding the spit out of it with a block of wood. Do you have the proper install tool needed? Will you rent it to me? Where can I buy it?

Before you ask, I've contacted several engine shops and they can only do Detroit Diesel 53, 71 or Cummins diesel engine found in the common 6 cyl truck engine.

If I have to use the 4x4 and hammer, is there something I should know, or do in advance of pounding the spit out of it? Should the liner be left in the freezer for a few days? Dry ice soak?

I have had complete success warming the block with a heat lamp or blow drier so it is nice and warm to the touch, then pulling sleeves out of the freezer and putting them in. I was not in a hurry and did one at a time. I select fit them into the native bores before heat/cool to get a best fit for them and marked them so they were as uniform as possible for the pre-fit. I found no issue getting them solidly down into the flange with the last inch on a few tapped in with the wooden handle end of a 1# ball Peen hammer. I believe speed of placement and cleanliness were paramount to this. Jim

 

[Harold Hubbard]

Get a cooler full of dry ice, put the sleeves in it. Heat the block up, weed burner torch or set your gas grill under it. Don’t overdo the heat, but 200 degrees won’t hurt it if it is heated evenly.
Use heavy gloves to pick the sleeves out of the cooler, they should almost drop in.

 

[560Dennis]

Link to press install about 20 , they started with a bearing driver .

 

[rustred]

nice job !

 

[docmirror]

It's sounding like the proper install tool is temp delta and the whack method. That machining video shows hours of work on a bore machine and special sleeves that I'm not going to have. If I find that much damage in my block bores, I'm going to start over with a different block I have standing by. Doubt it will come to that.

Sounds like there's no use or value in getting the right install tool. I could use a press to install, but I don't want to manhandle the engine around that much as it's still in the framed cradle of the grader it came off. I'm doing more or less an 'in frame' job here, with the crank not coming out of the block.

 

[Janicholson]

It's sounding like the proper install tool is temp delta and the whack method. That machining video shows hours of work on a bore machine and special sleeves that I'm not going to have. If I find that much damage in my block bores, I'm going to start over with a different block I have standing by. Doubt it will come to that.

Sounds like there's no use or value in getting the right install tool. I could use a press to install, but I don't want to manhandle the engine around that much as it's still in the framed cradle of the grader it came off. I'm doing more or less an 'in frame' job here, with the crank not coming out of the block.

The video is showing repair sleeves, not the sleeves you will be putting in. A good video, but not germane. Jim

 

[docmirror]

I might try to make some kind of bearing press using the studs on the block and a threaded rod. Will still use the heaters on the block and put the sleeves in dry ice for a night.

 

[Gambles]

FYI:For those who don’t know, the IH H tractor engine is a dry sleeve, not a wet sleeve. So some installation procedures are different.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

FYI:For those who don’t know, the IH H tractor engine is a dry sleeve, not a wet sleeve. So some installation procedures are different.

.... which is probably why the Cummins and Detroit guys didn't want it. Was probably a repair facility where none of the technicians know how to drive a standard transmission.

 

[Welding man]

A piece of 3/4 all thread and some nuts and flat washers and a couple of pieces of heavy aluminum flat bar with a hole drilled in them works nicely. The dry ice and heat is not needed if the sleeves and block have the proper interference.

 

[montidale]

I replace the liners in at H years back. I put the liners in the freezer wrapped in paper. Took them out of the freezer ran to the engine and tapped them in. I did not heat up the block. You want to make sure the bore in the block where the sleeves go is clean. if I remember right, I set the liners on upside down to make sure there is a couple thousands of the liner is going to stick up above the block deck. I think there is a spec on how much it could stand above the block. I think the reasoning for that is so the head holds the liner down when it is torqued. You don’t want to clean the bores too much that the liners fit in their loose.

 

[docmirror]

Well, I had to go a bit medieval on jug #3. It just would not come out of there. Finally, I took the rod cap off, rotated the crank out of the way and got my engine hoist out. I bored holes through two sides of the sleeve sticking up, and put a grade 8 bolt through there with a chain link. After maybe 400Lbs of force, I hit it with a hammer and it came out like a rocket! Number 2 came out much easier. I haven't worked 1 and 4 yet, but they seem to be somewhat more loose than 3.

However, I now have a few more questions for the experts on IH. There is a stamping right in the deck of the crankcase, directly in front of each cyl. From front to back they are stamped: D, A, C, B. I'm concerned that this may be some kind of sizing code relating to the finished bore of the block, and is needed for an interference fit. It's hard for me to imagine machining a sleeve bore down into the ten-thousands of an inch, and subsequent sleeve bores that are so tight as well. The stamping is clearly related to each individual bore, as it's stamped right next to the ring of the liner and into the case deck surface. Strange. I don't have a cyl mic to check this.

Next, there is printing visible on the two sleeves I've taken out. It reads: "SL99M". 'SL' for sleeve? It's still visible after all these years. I do not know if this was a re-sleeved engine, but it appears to be original from 1939-ish. If anyone has an idea, opinion, or background on this, please share. See examples.

 

[Janicholson]

When I described the process in my first post I indicated selecting the fit of each in a trial without cool/heat applied. The letters are select fit from original installation, A being tighter (IIRC) progressing to D.
I do not know what the ink markings are. No cool/heat was used on assembly at IH. Jim

 

[docmirror]

My rod big end bearings look pretty good. There is no orange/copper showing, and aside from some small nicks the surface is quite good. I'm planning to re-use them unless someone convinces me that I should just repl the bearings because the rods are off. I'm of the opinion that the 'bathtub curve of failure' might bite me and one or more of the new bearings is either much too loose or much too tight, and could cause a catastrophic failure. I could buy some plastigauge and check it with that if I went with new bearings I guess. Could use the plastiguage on the original bearings too. Might show if they are within tolerance.

I have flat top pistons, and will be getting the flat top replacement kit from this site. Since octane back in pre-war was of the 73 to 83 range, and compressions were commonly 6:1, I will be planning to mill the head to increase my C/R a bit. Orig 5.9:1, I'd like to go up to about 6.8 to one. I will be doing the cc of the head chamber, and adding the cc of the cyl space of the head gasket to get my target cut. Off the top of my head, it's going to be about 0.080. I should have enough adjustment on the valve train to not require new shorter pushrods. That's the plan anyway.

I also might find a slightly bigger carb and manifold. I understand a 300 manifold and carb are bigger than my H, so I'm hunting around for that now.

 

[docmirror]

When I described the process in my first post I indicated selecting the fit of each in a trial without cool/heat applied. The letters are select fit from original installation, A being tighter (IIRC) progressing to D.
I do not know what the ink markings are. No cool/heat was used on assembly at IH. Jim

I was kinda expecting that, based on where the stamping is. Still a bit surprised it goes that detail for such an old engine. I'll do a pre-fit before icing them so I get the best case. Just my luck I got four different bore sizes in one block. Wondering if it would be wise to run a hone down the bores just a bit, That might make the surface just a bit too rough.

 

[Gambles]

I have flat top pistons, and will be getting the flat top replacement kit from this site. Since octane back in pre-war was of the 73 to 83 range, and compressions were commonly 6:1, I will be planning to mill the head to increase my C/R a bit.

I’m not an IH expert at all and I’ll never claim to be. That being said, if you plan to raise the compression, what aren’t you starting with some domed pistons? The H domed pistons were called firecraters, IIRC. I know i used them on the H that I overhauled many years ago. That overhauled really woke that tractor up.

 

[docmirror]

Are those called "stepped head" pistons here on this site? I was wondering about that. If they are the 'domed' I would use those and not have to mill the head to get better C/R. My current has flat head pistons giving 5.9:1 C/R

This is the kit I was looking at. I need to measure my valve height so I don't get piston to valve interference, but if I have the right valves, I would go with this, has the 'stepped head'.

Farmall H Basic In-Frame Engine Kit, C152 Gas, Stepped Head Pistons - BIFH1156A

International Harvester / Farmall H Basic In-Frame Engine Kit, C152 Gas, Stepped Head Pistons for sale, BIFH1156A. In Frame Engine Kit. (C152 CID Gas 4-cylinder engine) Overbore 3 3\8 inches to 3 7\16 inches. For tractors with stepped head high compression pistons-valve length 5-5\16 inches...

www.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[Janicholson]

Stepped head do raise the compression. They will not inter fear with the valves. You can still use 87 regular fuel and be happy. Jim

 

[docmirror]

Most excellent. Thanks to all. I'm going to have the head rebuilt locally, and I'm ordering the in-frame kit on Mon, with a gasket set. I should be buttoned up in a few weeks.