Cylinder Head Questions

NCScott

Member
Hi Guys

A couple of years ago I bought a semi basket case side mount 8n. Ive been getting it back together and finally tried to start it (I did put MMO in a while back). It spun like it had no spark plugs in. I took the valve covers off and all the valves were working except one. I then checked the timing mark on the flywheel and it was ok. I pulled the head today and found that a PO had taken the head off and put it back on with no gasket. The cylinder walls feel very smooth except for some surface rust. My plan is to put a new gasket on, see what happens, and go from there. My questions are:

1. Should I use some 0000 steel wool the try to clean the surface rust off the cylinder wall?

2. Can I or should I use a small wire brush to clean around the valve seats?

3. Would a steel brush on a drill be too rough to clean up the bottom of the cylinder head?

I consider myself fairly intellegent but I cannot figure out how to upload some photos I took.

Thanks for any suggestions and/or help!!
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Great photos I have same problem but Im older then the wheel and thats my excuse. I use a paint stripper wheel on a drill to clean mating surfaces. Its not the grit kind but the real tough plastic of sort ones fast and easy.
 
NCScott,All of your items mentioned are good ways to get it cleaned up.
1. Should I use some 0000 steel wool the try to clean the surface rust off the cylinder wall? Yes

2. Can I or should I use a small wire brush to clean around the valve seats? Yes

3. Would a steel brush on a drill be too rough to clean up the bottom of the cylinder head? Nope

It looks like #2 cylinder was where the head gasket failed and was getting water in the cylinder.
Take the head to a machine shop and have it checked for being warped and have it planed if needed.
If it needs to be planed ,have them only take off enough to true it up.
Get the valves all cleaned and free and oiled up rolling the engine over after cleaning the cylinder walls up and oiled first.
If you have the head planed ,when you get it back lay it on the block and just start one bolt in each end to hold it in place and then roll the engine over and watch it for any movement.If it does move then more work will need to be done to the head.If it don't move then it will be ok the remove and put the new gasket on and back together.
 
The wear pattern on the cylinder sleeves look like this motor is well worn . Clean it all you want with a wire wheel and steel wool . Cleaning the rust and debris is going to be the hard job . If you are only out a few bucks on gaskets and oil then it looks like a fun job .

Personally I would rinse everything with gasoline letting it drain out of the oil drain , air dry for a while , then blow dry and follow with a quart of auto trans fluid around the rings , valves , and lifters .


I would rig a pressurized can into the rear oil line to prime the system for best results . Before , I have removed the drain plug and slipped a 4' piece of small garden hose over the oil pick up tube center with a funnel on the other end held above the height of the motor . With a drain pan underneath I used the starter to turn the motor over . At idle I could pour the oil faster than it would pump it . I was mainly looking for any crud that had been dislodged as the oil drained into the pan instead of being recirculated .
 
Since you have gone this far, why not drop the oil pan and pull the pistons so you can check for stuck rings etc?

Garry
 

Rusty valve seats would be my biggest fear..

Yes bursh'em clean blow out the debre... The check them for leakage... Bring piston up to TDC compression stroke and pour a little gas/Varsoil/mineral spirits are diesel around the top of the valve look for leakage in the intake/exhaust port any leakage is not acceptable !
 
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