D 14 Ring gear

waner

Member
We want to put a new ring gear on our 1957 D14 . I see there are two different ones available, the one which comes up is a 93 tooth or 97 tooth or 116 tooth after 19001.
 
We want to put a new ring gear on our 1957 D14 . I see there are two different ones available, the one which comes up is a 93 tooth or 97 tooth or 116 tooth after 19001.
Well you have got to pull the engine to change it so you can count the teeth then, measure the diameter etc.
 
Your 1957 D14 would be prior to SN 19001 which is where they changed to 12-volt systems. That change included the starter and ring gear. The 1957 D14 6-volt starter (even if the rest of the system has been converted to 12-volts) should use the 93-tooth ring gear, part number 780233305.

Likely Dr Allis will be along to confirm my thought.
 
We want to put a new ring gear on our 1957 D14 . I see there are two different ones available, the one which comes up is a 93 tooth or 97 tooth or 116 tooth after 19001.
cant you remove the starter and mark one tooth then have it turned over bit at a time counting the teeth. i would have that info confirmed not just what the book says before hunting a ring gear. or yes pull it apart.
 
Factory 12 volt is the 100 plus gear tooth count I think. Whatever a D-15 gas is will be the same as D-14 factory 12 volt. The other ring gear with less than 100 teeth is factory 6 volt.
 
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We are going to split the tractor hopefully before Christmas then we can get a proper count on the teeth.
 
We did get our D 14 split which is an easy tractor to do. We ordered a new ring gear from Agco before Christmas but it still hasn’t got here. Amazing how much fuzz was in the bell housing from the mice.
 

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We did get our D 14 split which is an easy tractor to do. We ordered a new ring gear from Agco before Christmas but it still hasn’t got here. Amazing how much fuzz was in the bell housing from the mice.
So, what was the tooth count on the ring gear?

Are you replacing the clutch while you are in there?
 
the ring gear is a 93 tooth. the clutch disk and pressure plate are good. looks like they were replaced not long before we got the tractor so its going back together.
 
well after getting the ring gear on and one different rear tire then the tractor back together with a new distributor cap and different 12 volt internally resisted coil. we go to start it. I would start and idle good but not rev up. The guys who used to use it said it did have carburetor problems. so we changed the carb to a new Chinese made one and it was worse. I took that carb apart and found the gas jet had some swarf in it so drilled it out a wee bit more put it back on and it was the same, try and rev it up and no go just popping and farting out the exhaust. put the old carb back on and same thing again so I found another carb put it on and same thing. I said it sounds like maybe a broken valve spring. Over morning coffee with a friend who is a mechanic said yea could be a valve spring but do a compression test first. we did and all 125 plus but the tappets were a bit tight so I adjusted them to 12 thou. Still wouldn't rev up. I said to Bill lets put the old coil back on and where did you get that one anyway?. He said he brought it from home it was from some project but don't remember what. We did test it with a meter before putting it on and it was good. So put the old one back on and it started good and revved up real nice. Now when we were cranking it over before it wouldn't fire till just as you released the starter button. So then we put the Chinese carburetor back on and it starts and revs out perfect. we took that other coil and threw it in the garbage. we probably have about 20 of them sitting on the shelves here that nobody remembers what they came off of or if they are any good.
 
From the D14 manual, .012" for valve lash is the minimum, hot. If it was not up to operating temperature .015 would be a better setting.
 
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