D-17 gas series I stalling

mywizbo

Member
Dear AC experts
I have a d17 series I gas that was having issues with black spark plugs not running well. After help in this forum I did some maintenance, including finally replacing the carburetor. I have fixed my plug issue, and I don't have to run on choke anymore, but now it started acting up again. It will turn over and start, but then sputters and stalls.
Plugs all were changed and look good now. It must be getting fuel or it wouldn't start right?
What should I be checking now?
Thank you
 
Dear AC experts
I have a d17 series I gas that was having issues with black spark plugs not running well. After help in this forum I did some maintenance, including finally replacing the carburetor. I have fixed my plug issue, and I don't have to run on choke anymore, but now it started acting up again. It will turn over and start, but then sputters and stalls.
Plugs all were changed and look good now. It must be getting fuel or it wouldn't start right?
What should I be checking now?
Thank you
You have a common problem regardless of brand
It must be getting fuel or it wouldn't start right?
What should I be checking now? Duh . Try This,,,,. I bet It will run with a rag at idle that was moistened with gas held over the air breather .To have power it takes Fuel Flow . You should be able to fill a pint jar in a minutes time ... Have You checked flow thru on the carb? and the sediment bowl which SHOULD BE under the tank ,,. More Than likely there is stoppage plugging the flow. Blow them out ,,. Please check back , For More advice and help ... I used not know what to do in a few messes i got into and these guys here have got Me thru it ,,.
 
Thanks for your response...I've started off knowing nothing about engines when I got this 1959 series I d-17 and, with help on this forum, I've worked through many issues and was just frustrated after finally having fixed the problems I thought. Sorry if my question was stupid and thanks for the advice. I've been hard at work but when I get a second I'll do what you suggested and report back.
 
I did take out the carburetor drain and run a flow test. I got good flow and
it filled up a 9 oz plastic glass in about 40 seconds. 16 oz to a pint, so I'm getting about
a pint a minute.
I then started it up again and it seemed to run when I removed the air filter cap. Maybe it's
not getting good air?
I'm going to clean out the air filter oil bath and see if that straightens it out.
Thanks
 
I did take out the carburetor drain and run a flow test. I got good flow and
it filled up a 9 oz plastic glass in about 40 seconds. 16 oz to a pint, so I'm getting about
a pint a minute.
I then started it up again and it seemed to run when I removed the air filter cap. Maybe it's
not getting good air?
I'm going to clean out the air filter oil bath and see if that straightens it out.
Thanks
With the oil cup off the air cleaner look down it and make sure it doesn't have a bunch of junk in the tube
 
Ok, I cleaned out the oil bath and it ran well for a while, purred like a kitten. Now, I've got stalling again. It starts up sometimes and will run at idle relatively well, but when I open the throttle it stalls. I thought I had a dirty oil bath again, so I cleaned it out - didn't help. Then I checked gas flow at the carb drain plug and there's good flow there. I disconnected the air line to the carb entirely, and still the same thing. Now I've taken the oil bath filter assembly off the tractor and trying to clean out the wire filter inside the air filter above the oil bath with carb/air filter cleaner. Anything else I should try?
 
Ok, I cleaned out the oil bath and it ran well for a while, purred like a kitten. Now, I've got stalling again. It starts up sometimes and will run at idle relatively well, but when I open the throttle it stalls. I thought I had a dirty oil bath again, so I cleaned it out - didn't help. Then I checked gas flow at the carb drain plug and there's good flow there. I disconnected the air line to the carb entirely, and still the same thing. Now I've taken the oil bath filter assembly off the tractor and trying to clean out the wire filter inside the air filter above the oil bath with carb/air filter cleaner. Anything else I should try?
When you have the air tube off the air cleaner start it up and briefly hold your hand over the air intake of the carb. Try to do so fast enough that you don't kill the engine and do it 3 or 4 times. Sometime the carb get a small clog in them and doing that pulls the clog out.
 
Ok, I cleaned out the oil bath and it ran well for a while, purred like a kitten. Now, I've got stalling again. It starts up sometimes and will run at idle relatively well, but when I open the throttle it stalls. I thought I had a dirty oil bath again, so I cleaned it out - didn't help. Then I checked gas flow at the carb drain plug and there's good flow there. I disconnected the air line to the carb entirely, and still the same thing. Now I've taken the oil bath filter assembly off the tractor and trying to clean out the wire filter inside the air filter above the oil bath with carb/air filter cleaner. Anything else I should try?
It's not clear to me if it will run with the air cleaner disconnected or not. If it will run with the carb disconnected the air cleaner may be clogged even though you cleaned the bowl. To really clean one you need to remove it and get inside. There is a way to take them apart but you can do a fair job by washing out with gas or another solvent, soaking and or pouring the solvent through to flush it. Dust and dirt can plug the metal screen/mesh above the oil cup.
 
Thanks to both of you. I'm going to try your suggestions. I took the air cleaner off and I'm trying to clean the wire mesh inside. With the air tube disconnected from the carb I'm getting the same symptoms. It started and then stalled when I opened the throttle. It did run a bit worse at idle and would stall itself at idle as well without the air tube connected. Now I'm thinking that without the air tube connected I introduce another variable and the engine is probably getting too much air so I would probably have to choke it to get it to run right. I'm going to clean out the inside of the air cleaner and put it back on the tractor, after first trying to block the air intake to the carb with my hand like Old suggested, and see if I have any luck. I'll report back. Thanks.
 
Thanks to both of you. I'm going to try your suggestions. I took the air cleaner off and I'm trying to clean the wire mesh inside. With the air tube disconnected from the carb I'm getting the same symptoms. It started and then stalled when I opened the throttle. It did run a bit worse at idle and would stall itself at idle as well without the air tube connected. Now I'm thinking that without the air tube connected I introduce another variable and the engine is probably getting too much air so I would probably have to choke it to get it to run right. I'm going to clean out the inside of the air cleaner and put it back on the tractor, after first trying to block the air intake to the carb with my hand like Old suggested, and see if I have any luck. I'll report back. Thanks.
Well I guess it isn't the air cleaner being plugged. It shouldn't make much difference how it runs if the air cleaner is connected or disconnected. I am thinking that now it might be time to take the carb off and take it apart and clean it. There may be dirt or old dry gas partially plugging some jet or small passage. Blowing air or carb cleaner through ALL passages and making sure you know where every passage and hole goes and is clean is the trick. You probably don't need a kit, just a cleaning. My brother had a WC that hadn't run in years and it wouldn't. Problem turned out to be mud from a mud wasp I guess blocking the hole before the choke plate that went to the carb bowl for a vent. You couldn't see it, blended into the metal perfectly but that vent passage had to go somewhere. These are not complicated carburetors, the only loose parts are the float and needle. If the main jet doesn't want to unscrew you can probably just blow it out clean.
 
I guess maybe that's the last thing I can try right, but this carb is a replacement for the previous one I had that I had cleaned and still couldn't get it to stop making my spark plugs fouled and black. I found a guy to sell me a carb from another tractor that he had rebuilt and when I put this rebuilt carb on it fixed my spark plug fouling and the tractor ran great for a while. This was just a few months ago. Maybe something got stuck in this carb but I'm really almost at my wits end with this engine. I'll keep working on it today and come back. Maybe the jet on the bottom of the carb for when the tractor is under load is plugged. I'll take that out entirely and see if that helps.
 
Thanks, I'm still struggling with it. I've taken the carb apart and cleaned it a couple times. I talked to a guy who told me there's a good
chance that I've got a piece of dirt or something stuck inside the metal die cast. He suggested trying to get the best rpms I could and then choking it to somehow try to clear the debris. Didn't work. I guess it has to be blown out with air, not sure. I'm going to try to find someone who has experience cleaning these things out. Dang thing is driving me crazy and makes the whole tractor useless til I can figure it out.
 
And by the way, rough sawn lumber, that's pretty crazy because right before I saw your post I had just searched online for "rough sawn lumber" because I'm needing to refinish a floor and match some lumber that's like 200 years old oak.
 
I have taken the line off the carb and blown air back into the fuel tank to clear any blockage. If you have something floating in your gas tank, it will eventually work its way back, but you should be able to get it running for a while.
 
I've cleaned the carb out and tried another cleaned carb, and plenty of fuel and air is getting to the engine - I've still got the same problem, idle is normal, and when I give it gas it sputters and stalls.
What should be my next move to diagnose my problem?
 
Did you replace the condenser? Many many problems have been caused by cheap chinese condensers. This doesn't sound like it, but something to think about.
 
When I say did you replace the condenser I meant to say did it run and then the problem showed up after you replaced the condenser.
 
No, I cleaned the carb early this spring when I had the same symptoms and it purred for
a couple of months, plenty of power etc.
Then one day after I'd worked it a couple of hours it sputtered and stalled. Ever since then
it fires up pretty easy and will idle, but when I try to give it gas it sputters and dies.
I tried what worked before by cleaning out the carb, making sure I've got good gas flow,
plugs are ok, but still no rpms.
 
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