D14 Starter

Bill 1952

Member
Hello All,My D14 had been converted to 12 volt before I bought it. Yesterday, the starter wouldn't work.
I removed it and found the nose cone broken off. I'm wondering what caused this. I read somewhere that not being installed correctly could be a cause. I saw something about shims.
I would appreciate any input as to what may have caused it and how to make sure it's correctly installed.
Thanks!
 
Putting 12 volts into a 6 volt starter makes more torque than the starter was made to handle, thus some thing has to give and the nose cone is the weakest part of the starter. Get the starter rebuilt to 12 volts will solve the nose cone breaking problem.
 
Putting 12 volts into a 6 volt starter makes more torque than the starter was made to handle, thus some thing has to give and the nose cone is the weakest part of the starter. Get the starter rebuilt to 12 volts will solve the nose cone breaking problem.
Not to mention that timing set to "early" or a stuck advance or a damaged ring gear or even a piece of debris jammed between ring gear teeth can do the same thing.
 
Putting 12 volts into a 6 volt starter makes more torque than the starter was made to handle, thus some thing has to give and the nose cone is the weakest part of the starter. Get the starter rebuilt to 12 volts will solve the nose cone breaking problem.
Thanks.
 
Not to mention that timing set to "early" or a stuck advance or a damaged ring gear or even a piece of debris jammed between ring gear teeth can do the same thing.
Thanks.
Putting 12 volts into a 6 volt starter makes more torque than the starter was made to handle, thus some thing has to give and the nose cone is the weakest part of the starter. Get the starter rebuilt to 12 volts will solve the nose cone breaking problem.
Can you tell me what all is involved in converting the starter from 6 volt to 12 volt?
 
There have been many of those tractors and WD-45's converted to a 12 volt battery and still used the 6 volt starter. A broken nose cone?? That too happens once in a great while. Ignition timing too far advanced. Someone hitting the start button when the starter was still spinning, etc. Most people are unaware of this, but when a D-14 had factory 12 volt starting the ring gear on the flywheel was a different tooth count. This then required the starter drive/bendix to have 1 or 2 less teeth. The moral of the story is you cannot install an OEM 12 volt starter with a 6V flywheel/ring gear as the gear teeth won't mesh.
 
Putting 12 volts into a 6 volt starter makes more torque than the starter was made to handle, thus some thing has to give and the nose cone is the weakest part of the starter. Get the starter rebuilt to 12 volts will solve the nose cone breaking problem.
This is interesting. My WD had already been converted to 12 volts, and lo and behold, the nose cone broke soon after I got it. But I converted my Ford to 12v more than a decade ago and did not have the starter redone, and it's still fine. I can't remember if the replacement starter for the WD was 12v or not, but it's still ok after 20+ years. Edit: come to think of it, it might have something to do with getting much less use ever since I got the Ford.
 
To all who responded,
I found a local guy who had a housing that matched mine. He replaced the housing and installed new brushes while he had it apart.
The old ones were "well worn".
I appreciate the response from everyone.
Thanks!:)
 
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