D17 Not getting gas. Going Crazy!

[Plow24]

My d17 is not getting gas to the plugs? The carb bowl is filled to the point when I go to start gas comes out of the Zenith carb? Anyways, the plugs, and the coil seem to have good spark but the plugs are dry? Wondering if a bad battery could cause low cranking power resulting in no gas to plugs? maybe rings? I am lost anyone please help

Thanks

 

[steve(ill)]

Jets inside the carb plugged is the best bet. restricted air cleaner tube. hole in intake manifold or cracked gasket causing air leakage.

 

[old]

Pull the hose off the carb going to the air filter. With it out of gear and double and triple check that turn it on and hold your hand over ti intake of the carb. You should feel a good bit of suction and also get gas on your hand. If you do not get both then post back what you found. Oh and by the way it might even try to start when you do that

 

[Brian G. NY]

Going along with what Steve is saying, try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake manifold where it meets the head while cranking the engine. If there is a leak, the engine should fire momentarily.
I had this problem with a D-17; turned out the manifold was warped and wouldn"t seal.

 

[Plow24]

I tried putting my hand over the carb and start it and nothing happened? The carb was sucking my hand in but the tractor never fired? I took the carb apart and cleaned with carb cleaner put it back on and still nothing.


Still puzzled???

 

[garage13]

Hummmmm...You got a good puzzle going. I think i would pull #1 and #2 plugs and give a shot of fuel striaght into cylinders, this will most deffinetly make it fire at least try too.

Let us know what this does.
JD

 

[old]

Ah but did your hand get wet with gas when you held your hand over the carb?? If your hand did not get wet with gas then you have a problem with the carb and missed something. If you hand got wet but the plugs did not get gas on them due to flooding from holding your hand over it you may have a compression problem or a weak battery. Is it 6 or 12 volts?? If 6 try a 12 volt battery and see if it starts. Do not run it long if it has a distributor or you can fry the coil

 

[Plow24]

Okay, my hand did get wet with gas when i held my hand over the carb. Also noticed that the plugs look a little black when I pulled them to see if gas was getting there.

going back into the garage to dump a little gas in the #1 and #2 cylinders. lets see what happens

 

[Plow24]

Put some gas in the cylinders it tries to start for a very brief second then back to just the whirling sound.

12 v battery is good I took it to auto zone and had it checked.

Wow------ I am beyond ------, should of bought a Farmall (lol)

thanks for the help

 

[El Toro]

Are you getting a hot blue fire to your sparkplugs? Have you removed the mag or distributor? Since the plugs are black you may be getting gas and don't have good fire to your plugs. I would bring No1 piston near the fan to TDC on the compression stroke. Hold your thumb over the plug hole while a helper hand cranks the engine until you feel pressure against your thumb. Once you feel pressre drop a long plstic straw on top of the piston. you watch the straw rise as the helper slowly cranks the engine. When the straw quits rising you should at TDC.

Remove the cap and see where your rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to your No1 plug wire. Clean those points with some 320 wet or dry until shiny. Hal

 

[Plow24]

Yeap the distributor was removed for painting reasons and then put back in. I have spark, are you saying the distributor could be off to the point that my spark is weak? It still puzzles me on why the plugs are a dry black color

 

[El Toro]

You need to bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke as I described at the bottom of your posting. You can get fire to your plugs even if the distributor is out of time, but your engine won't start. You can't get a Farmall to
start if the distributor is out of time. Hal

 

[El Toro]

Bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. I would bet money you have the distrbutor out of time. Your Farmall wouldn't start either if you installed the distributor
out of time. Your should've noted where the rotor was pointing before you pulled the distributor. THEN DON"T MOVE THE ENGINE. Hal

 

[garage13]

El is right Plow.....you need to retime it. If you put gas in plug hole and it didnt fire somethings wrong. You said it tryed too sounds like time to me. O and the explains your black plugs/dry plugs.

pull #1 hold thumb over hole till air is pushing it off.
Put screw driver in plug hole and move motor over slow till top dead.
pull cap and see were rotor button points. if not at #1 pull dist and point it there.

Im with El this will fix your problem
JD

 

[Plow24]

Going home and trying the TDC trick....


Keeping my fingers crossed and my hopes high

will post back later

 

[El Toro]

I think your plug wires need to be in this firing order on your cap. Hal

 

[Plow24]

Okay mine are not, will fix that now.

Will I be able to turn that crank pulley over by hand to set TDC? Or can I get it close by turning on and off the key?

I'm just wondering if I can turn crank pulley by hand, because I have to take the radiator back off, all the belts etc. Really didn't want to do all that if I can't get it to move.

Thanks
A>C>

 

[El Toro]

You can probably turn it by hand if you remove all the sparkplugs. You should have a helper to watch the long straw rise. My wife would get that job. You could use the starter to bump the engine easily until you feel pressure agaist your thumb. Once you feel pressure I would turn the engine by hand. You don't want to go past TDC. Once at TDC your rotor should point
at the No1 plug wire which is at about 2 o'clock.
The rotor should turn CW.
Hal

 

[El Toro]

I made a mistake where the rotor should be pointing when your No1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. It should be around 11 o'clock as you can note from the picture. Hal

 

[El Toro]

I made a mistake where the rotor should be pointing when your No1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. It should be around 11 o'clock as you can note from the picture. Hal

 

[Plow24]

Where is the inspection plate to view this timing mark? I looked and can not fid it. Also, I noticed then when I pulled my distributor cap off and looked at the points and started the engine the spark is not consistent when it whirls around. This thing might be going to the shop.......

 

[El Toro]

If you remove No1 sparkplug near the radiator to bring that piston to TDC on the compression stroke you drop a long plastic straw on top of the piston once you feel compression. Watch the straw rise as the hepler keeps slowly cranking the engine. When the straw quits rising your No1 piston should be at TDC on the compression stroke. You don't need to find the inspection plate to get your engine in time.

Remove the cap and see where your rotor is pointing. If it's not pointing to your No1 plug wire on the cap which is about 11 o'clock pull the mag and rotate the rotor so it is at No1 and reinstall mag. Hal

 

[Plow24]

Okay update: I am failing to figure out how to get the #1 cylinder to TDC. I understand the process, I just don't know how to turn the engine slowly so that I don't pass TDC. I have been using the key to bump it forward and that is not working. I don't have a hand crank and I don't think I can turn it by hand. Any ideas?

I have now tightened up the manifold and I am getting a huge shotgun sounding blast that comes out of the exhaust. I am hoping I am on the write track, I could not even get a backfire before. I think if I can get this timing thing worked out I may be in. Please send help

 

[garage13]

If you would like to call me I will try and help you along. call 4pm-8:30pm est

607-426-5962 cell verizon
Joe

 

[Plow24]

Joe I might hit you up tomorrow. I appreciate that very much

Andrew

 

[garage13]

Howed you make out. You never called.
JD