Dad's 2N Update

[Kevin Godshall]

Not sure why my post doesn't come to the front when I add to it......... so here's an update:

Back again for an update, some advice, and whatever scolding and tongue lashing I'm due for this time........

Knowing now that I'm working on a flathead........ I pulled off the side covers and inspected the valves and springs. All looked OK. Rolled her over and each one was moving up and down.

Moved to the process of removing the "cylinder head". Stuffed a lot more rope into that little hole than I thought would every fit and sure enough lifted it up about 1/16th of an inch. Worked all around until it was free.

To my untrained eyes, everything looks OK and seems to be working as needed. Valves are lifting and closing, pistons moving up and down. Lots of crude needs to be cleaned up but don't see anything obstructing or obviously out of sorts.

Since there is a large amount of blowback thru the carb during startup attempts, I am guessing that the intake valve on #3 must not be seating properly. I am also assuming that I am dealing with original parts here. So... do I buy a new valve kit and install all new? Do I take the valves out and have them ground? Is there something else I should be looking at or testing?

I was really hoping to find a broken spring or a stuck valve, but I'm at a loss now of what to look at or what to try.

Thanks for the help.

PS Here is last thread if you need more info:

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=699922

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kevin.......you asked......"Not sure why my post doesn't come to the front when I add to it".......uh, this bulletin board don't operate that way.

You ask......"So... do I buy a new valve kit and install all new? Do I take the valves out and have them ground?"......uh? no need for new valve kit, just grind your old set of valves and valve seats.

And iff'n you'd done the dreaded compression test BEFORE removing the cylinderhead, you'd know which cylinder had a bad valve.

My guess, one of yer intake valves choked on a piece of carbon and won't sit tite. You still need to grind the valves and seats (all of them) ......Dell, the guesser

 

[Kevin Godshall]

This is why I wish my post would get moved to the front.....

I did do the compression test before I took the head off, it was number 3. The others were reading 85# and 3 was odd man out at 15#.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Jimmyjack]

It should be intuitivly obvious that you need enough meat on the valves to be able to grind them without leaving a thin knifelike edge. Let someone who knows what can be ground and what cant look at them before you go through the trouble of grinding, reinstalling, and quickly burning a too thin valve. With that compression dont stop with one valve.

 

[Dunk]

Kevin,

Come over and use the modern version of the forum, it moves the newer posted in topics to the top.

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=444695

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewforum.php?f=16

 

[Colin King]

Kevin,

Your project is well beyond my knowledge ... so I can't give you any assistance. But to a fellow beginning mechanic - I tip my hat to you! Good luck, and keep at it. And be sure to come back with your questions.

Colin, MN

 

[Doug Barden]

LikeDell said, do all valves and seats. Valves need to be kept in order, takes a spring compressor for flat heads. Don"t drop your keepers as there are 2 per valve.

 

[Kevin Godshall]

(quoted from post at 00:26:52 03/07/09) Kevin,

Come over and use the modern version of the forum, it moves the newer posted in topics to the top.

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=444695

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewforum.php?f=16

Wow, I like it much better here. More like the forums I am used to posting in. Thank you so much for directing me here.

 

[Kevin Godshall]

OK, got a chance to look some more at the valves on Dad's N. Got some recommendations to inspect the intake valve in question and also the guide.

Pulled the suspect and found out that he has a mushroom type valve with split guide. Once the top and bottom retaining clips were pulled, the valve and the guide pulled [b:e8e2d17bc8]very [/b:e8e2d17bc8]easily out of the top. I called the neighborhood mechanic and he said I should not have been able to pull it out without using a valve puller.

Looking at the guide (I will try to post the pic), there was no seal whatsoever with it when it came out. I have searched online, but not found a seal that would fit it. On each side of the guide, there is a divider in the seal channel.

Does such an animal still exist as a seal for this type of guide? I see that the split guide is no longer available anymore. Should I just buy the solid body guide and replace the valve with the straight stemmed variety?

Thanks. (Hope the pic works).

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 20:49:52 03/06/09)

(quoted from post at 00:26:52 03/07/09) Kevin,

Come over and use the modern version of the forum, it moves the newer posted in topics to the top.

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=444695

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewforum.php?f=16

Wow, I like it much better here. More like the forums I am used to posting in. Thank you so much for directing me here.

It is much better here...

BUT!!!

Most (by far) of the guys still use the classic view of the forum, they won't see your new posts that are pages back on the classic forum.

My reccomendation is that you use the modern view of the forum, but if it has been a couple of days, and you have an update, you still post it as a new topic, that way it will get the most exposure.

I know enough about your mushroom valves, and split guides, to know that (they are a PITA) and in my opinion I would be upgrading them to 8N parts.

That will mean new solid guides, new regular valves, and adjustable lifters.

Keep in mind that all I really know is a '49 8N.

You need a machine shop to deal with those valves, IMO.

With the 8N parts, as long as the seats are in good shape, you can buy just new valves and guides on a rebuild, if you already have the adjustable lifters.

 

[Kevin Godshall]

There is a nut on the lifter, that I assume would be an "adjuster".

From my online research, it seems that there is a difference between the solid guide and the split guide in the springs that they use.

My thinking (correct me if I'm wrong), is that I would need to go with: valves, solid guides, seals, springs, keepers. (I'm assuming that my top and bottom retaining clips would still be useable, as well as the locks).

Yes?

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 19:35:19 03/13/09)
There is a nut on the lifter, that I assume would be an "adjuster".

From my online research, it seems that there is a difference between the solid guide and the split guide in the springs that they use.

My thinking (correct me if I'm wrong), is that I would need to go with: valves, solid guides, seals, springs, keepers. (I'm assuming that my top and bottom retaining clips would still be useable, as well as the locks).

Yes?

Like I said, I only *know* '49 8Ns.

I think you are right about the springs.

Repost your post with the pics, as a new topic, and you will get all of the guys to see it.

When I buy a rebuild kit for my '49, it comes with pistons, rings, regular valves, solid guides, regular valves, I think all of the springs, and on and on.