O.K. guys, please don't laugh at the JICCA D series tech expert when you read my story. I purchased a 1951 DC down North of Bellville, Kansas last spring (May). The engine was free then; I hauled it to Montana and by early August the engine had siezed up. I let it set all winter and about 2 months ago I put in ATF and Acetone which freed it up so I could turn it over with the crank. Yesterday one of my friends and I decided to pull it to better circulate the oil. I put into high gear (4th) and all it would do was slide the wheels but when I dropped to 3rd it turned over fine as long as we were on concrete. The moment we got onto dry ground it slid in both gears. What is going wrong? I'm guessing I may need a tear down to install new rings and hone the sleeves.
 
A couple of questions:

Does it roll freely when the clutch is depressed? When it's out of gear?

Can you still turn it over with the hand crank after it started locking up the wheels?

If you pull the spark plugs, does it turn over easier? Are the cylinders filling with fluid?

Have you pulled the valve cover to check the valves and make sure they are loose?

Let us know what you find...
 
Is the valve gear stuck?

Very common on C etc

If so, need time and patience to free it by tapping valve gear. In worst case, remove head and free valve gear, then you can check if pistons stuck.
 
My guess is that you missed 4th, and actually had it in Reverse or 1st. As for sleeve replacement, your DC left the factory with 3-7/8" sleeves, which are no longer available. If you do an overhaul, and it has not been fitted with 4" sleeves & pistons, it would mean replacement with 4" sleeves & pistons which should be available by July. BTW, usually, a tight engine, meaning an engine with little wear, will seize sooner than an engine that is wore.
 
I would never pull a tractor with a stuck engine, especially a D series. The rods a quite long and bending them is quite possible. Remove the valve cover to see if they are free by tapping each valve with a hammer. If they won't go down, remove the head. Use PB Blaster liberally and leave the head sit for a while. Use in the cylinders too, about 1/4" on top of the piston. I have not had valves stuck so I made a fixture to screw into the spark plug hole and attached a hydraulic hand pump one cylinder at a time all valves closed with the other three spark plug holes open. Pump till you feel it give or see engine turn very slightly. If you start with #1 cylinder,go to #2 or #3 to pump pressure into and this will turn the engine in the opposite direction. Turn it very little to start with then see if you can turn it with the crank. DO NOT CONTINUE TURNING THE ENGINE IN THE SAME DIRECTION AFTER A PISTON BREAKS LOOSE. Doing so could bend a rod. Use extreme care. Just break 1 loose and immediately stop. One and 4 turn the same direction, 2 and 3 turn the opposite. If the motor stopped with two pistons all the way up, this method may NOT WORK. Check through spark plug hole to see where piston is. It works for me!
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top