Dead '68 Camaro

[Glenn F.]

My '68 Camaro, which has been stored inside for decades,
had full electrical function about five years ago. Now the only place I get power (test light) is at the starter. The rest of the car is stone dead. I assume it's a bad ground?? Any basic tips are appreciated.

Thank you,
Glenn F.

 

[Janicholson]

Go from here: Test lights do not equate to starter current, but we must begin somewhere.
Test light hooked to ground side of battery on the negative clamp, not the post. Light comes on touching the positive post and clamp juice getting out of battery.
Test light hooked to clean ground on fender (not engine) and positive post touched, light lights, good ground to chassis.
Teat light hooked to engine bracket, positive post touched, light lights good ground to engine.
With the light attached to the engine bracket, check the post on the starter from the battery. Light lights, good connection to starter.
Check the wire going to the harness from that same post. (you might need to pierce the wire insulation. Light lights, power to fuse block likely.
Connect light under the dash to the metal brackets for a ground. Touch the fuses and links to brake lights, horn, and dome light. No lights and there is the issue. Somewhere between the starter and the fuse panel is a broken wire or corroded terminal.
This process may need to be followed to the ignition switch, and other circuits to find the fault. Good luck, and keep us informed. Jim

 

[David G]

If I remember right, the battery connect to the starter solenoid and there is a fusible link from there.

 

[old]

Test light from battery post and - battery says you have power to the starter only. There should be a fusible link which is likely to be bad. Common problem on a Chevy

 

[Heyseed]

Thanks Jim, nice progression.
First thing I thought is mouse damage even if it has been indoors, look for signs of a chewed wire.

 

[grizz02]

I'm with hayseed mice chewed fusible link its probably soy base covering

 

[IowaTJ]

As an undertaker of cars, I would be honored to be the funeral director of your dead 68 Camaro. We can arrange to have your loved one removed and drained of all fluids prior to the funeral. Family visitation will be prior to the funeral, to see your loved one for the last time before I RIP out it's motor and replace it with a 68 Corvette 400 hp 427, that just happens to be sitting on my engine stand. That would liven it up again and my wife would love to have it as I won't let her do that to her numbers matching 73 RS Z28 Camaro.

 

[Mutt and Jeff]

Maybe the battery is dead

 

[Billy Shafer]

Got Mice. They can be hell on anything in storage.

 

[Steve@Advance]

If I recall correctly, the main power feed hits the horn relay first, then through the firewall connector to the fuse block, from there to all other circuits.

Of course, check all the obvious, grounds, battery cables, etc. Check under load, with the ignition and lights on. That will load both battery and ignition circuits. Checking with no load can give false results.

Always! Be sure the trans is in neutral, be prepared for the unexpected! Something that has been stored and may have unusual wiring problems, like rodent damage, anything can happen! I like to keep one battery cable just sitting on the post for quick removal!

 

[Butch(OH)]

Bright side is loosing everything is a much easier search than loosing part of it on intermittent problem, LOL. All power feeds begins at the + battery post with the large wire going directly to the starter (only) which is not your problem. The smaller wire on same post feeds everything else through a fusible link. Check the large post on the back of the Alternator, first ground your test light at the battery - post. If there then check to another ground. If it is not there then probe the wire at battery post. If you have voltage at the alternator then next check the horn relay as Steve suggested. Remebering to check both at the battery - post and at a frame ground source. If you have a clamp on replacement cable end at the battery suspect it first as your problem. Seen it happen a 100 times before, the maain feed wire looses connection in the micky mouse clamp.

 

[Glenn F.]

Bingo, Butch. There was a small wire coming from core support which needed hooked to positive terminal. I lightly connected it last night but must not have gotten good contact.

Thank you to all,
Glenn F.

 

[Mule Meat]

Look on the fender well for the Junction Block. It looks like this.

Check the connections and make sure that they are clean and making good contact.

Then check the Horn Relay. Sorry large pic...

Notice the BAT. Should be a large Red wire to it from the battery. Straight across should be a Black wire that turns into a Red one. Check and clean all of the connection The Fuse Link is between the two wires. The red fused wire should run to the Firewall Bulkhead. You can make a fuse test lead like [b:ee23b8373a]guido[/b:ee23b8373a]. To bypass the fuse for testing.. Just make sure that what ever you use to by the fuse link is protected by a fuse. Would hate to see you come back asking for the best place to find a replacement wiring harness for 68 Camaro..