Dead Starter?

JimH

Member
Been away for a long time cuz' my tractors been healthy and well, until a few days ago. went to start it and the solenoid clicked once and then absolute silence. Did all the usual, checked the battery for charge, good. Checked all connections for continuity and cleanliness, good. replaced the solenoid, nothing. replaced the starter switch, nothing. does this sound like a starter issue? bad drive? I've replaced the cheap stuff but am afraid its the starter given up the ghost. What do you think?
 
Jim.......believe it or not, solenoids are rather bulletproof ...but... they kenn be installed incorrectly. Install with the little middle terminal faceing the engine where it is hard to gitt too. Yeah, based upon yer description of 1-klick, thatza LOW battery issue. Before I taker into starter electrical shop, I'd pull it out about 1/2-in and sandpaper BOTH sides of the gap and re-install the 2-screws and try again. Iff'n that don't help, then yeah, have it looked at professionally. BIG TIP: before you pull yer starter, putt some NUTS on the LONG screws. 5/16 coarse. Then yer task will be to LIFT yer BENDIX up'n'OVER the flywheel gear. Aim yer starter motor down'n'IN to the side of the block. Now taker to the horsepittal fer aministration. Have the NEW clutch style Bendix installed. Remember, LONG starter shaft must be SQUEEKY CLEAN. Me? I'd hoze'er OFF using BRAKE SHOE CLEANER first. Installation is a reversal of the removal. And while yer at itt, replace yer INSULATED battery cable. Itt kenn bee BAD under the insulation, no mucka 'round, eh? ........HTH, the amazed Dell, and self-appointed electrical gurru
 
JimH,You can check your starter by jumping it with a 12 volt jumper battery.First (BE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL) so it doesn't run you over.Connect one cable to the jump battery and to the starter side of the solenoid.Then connect the other cable to the battery and just touch ground it to the tractor frame/bell housing bolt ect.Does it run? if it doesn't time to remove it for repair.If it does run when jumped then it is not getting power from the solenoid.
 

Well color my face in shmootz! After cleaning the posts and clamps first off and getting no joy I then did all of the afore mentioned things. Today in a desperit move I decided to clean the batt posts again, and this time I used my old Monkey Wards post scrubber and really laid into them, then seated the clamps with the proper 16 0z adjustment tool, tightened my nuts till they hurt, then bang! the old girl started right up! Moral of this story? These 6volt beasts need every square cm of leaded goodness or just nothin, and i mean nothin is gonna happen!! Thx for the replies, I gotta go dunk my head in a trough...
 
(quoted from post at 12:44:59 05/02/17)
Well color my face in shmootz! After cleaning the posts and clamps first off and getting no joy I then did all of the afore mentioned things. Today in a desperit move I decided to clean the batt posts again, and this time I used my old Monkey Wards post scrubber and really laid into them, then seated the clamps with the proper 16 0z adjustment tool, tightened my nuts till they hurt, then bang! the old girl started right up! Moral of this story? These 6volt beasts need every square cm of leaded goodness or just nothin, and i mean nothin is gonna happen!! Thx for the replies, I gotta go dunk my head in a trough...

Happy for you!
I love my trusty battery post cleaners. I have a Hastings and a K-D. One of them has the hole with the wire brush innards and tapered wire brush clamp cleaner end. My other one has cutter blades that shave the post and the other end is a retractible tapered cutting spring that shaves the cable clamp insides.

Sometimes when the scale is hard and heavy I use a file to, as you said, utilize every sq cm of lead to lead contact potential.

T
 
Yep, sounds like a poor battery to me. Are you in 6-volts or 12-volts? can we assume it as an 8N since 9N and 2N models didn't have starter solenoids? get your MPC and I&T F-04 Manuals out and check wiring. I'd put old solenoid back on and the maybe the switch too. How did you test the battery? Take your battery to your local trusty starter/alternator shop, or even some auto parts stores too, and they can check battery under load with the right equipment/tester. Just because your continuity light or Voltmeter shows 6-7 volts doesn't mean it has the amperage to crank the starter. If you jump start it as mentioned, be sure it is neutral first, and if 6-volts, don't let it crank for more than 10 seconds. If it starts with a jump, it's the battery. Get a copy of Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips For N-Owners too...

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<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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A voltage drop test would have nailed it :D Of course it will never replace fiddle farting around with it till you get lucky... I think that's what they teach at electronics school cuzz that's the first recommendation from those with a degree in electronics... Take it apart till you get lucky :shock:
 
(quoted from post at 12:44:59 05/02/17)
Well color my face in shmootz! After cleaning the posts and clamps first off and getting no joy I then did all of the afore mentioned things. Today in a desperit move I decided to clean the batt posts again, and this time I used my old Monkey Wards post scrubber and really laid into them, then seated the clamps with the proper 16 0z adjustment tool, tightened my nuts till they hurt, then bang! the old girl started right up! Moral of this story? These 6volt beasts need every square cm of leaded goodness or just nothin, and i mean nothin is gonna happen!! Thx for the replies, I gotta go dunk my head in a trough...

Congratulations! As you know this exact problem comes up very frequently and the poor guy with the problem has to go through hours of repairing and replacing a lot of parts before he will believe that he needs to clean his connections. You are apparently a quick study.
 
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