deal lio drill battery

jniolon

Member
I've got a Hitachi 18 volt cordless drill. Bought in August of 2016. Been a great drill till this week. It came with two batteries...,

Hitachi 339782 Compact 18V 3.0 Amp Hour Lithium-Ion Slide Style Battery.

One still charges fine and last a long time. The other when put on the charger goes through it's cycle and gets a green (it's charged) light bar... but when you put in on the drill nuthin ! checked the +/- terminals with vom and it reads zero

any resurrecting this thing ? is there a generic replacement ?? or am I'm spending 25-50 bucks for a new one.

john
 
Hello jniolon,

Take it apart, and take a good look at the cell's connection. I have found just one connecting strap between two cells not making contact, and measured no voltage for the pack. Who knows, you may get lucky. You may find a dead cell too. Post back how you make out,


Guido.
 
John,
I buy generic 20v Dewalt 6 amp off
Amazon. Then I've bought adapters to use
that battery on an 18v Makita and an 18v
Milwaukie. Also have an adapter to use 20
v on my 18v Dewalt tools. So one battery
can be used on different brands.

I've never had any luck fixed Li battery.
Keep in mind that Li batteries are fire
hazzard. Spend the money and find a 6
amp genaric battery. I'll just be buying
20v li in future.
 
Buy one on Amazon oe ebay half of what retail stores want. NiMh are better than Nicad and usually a lower price. Check if your
charger will charge NiMh (Nickle metal hydried)
 
Hello Ted in NE-OH


He said it is a 3000Mah Lithium pack. $30 pack.
That capacity pack usually has 10 1500Mah capacity cells in a series parallel configuration,
Guido.
 
That is what I found on one of my batteries. The strap was burned off just like a blown fuse. I soldered it back together & it has been OK since.
 
Amazon and ebay. Last adapter I purchased came on a slow boat from China. You have to look around to find the adapter you want at the lowest price.

Some adapters have a usb port to charge phones from your 20v battery.

For me, I can have just one style of battery and charger and use it on different tool brands.
 
Use a volt meter and check the voltage. If you get a very low reading. Most likely the voltage dropped so low that the charger does not recognize the battery.

Take a fully charged battery. Connect it to the dead one (like jumper cables) for a few minutes to bring the voltage back up. Then try charging it again.

Use extreme caution if you open one up and start swapping parts. These are not NiCad or NiMH batteries. If they are not right they can and will explode.
 

so I opened it up and here's what I saw... found NO voltage on any two points I tried. I tried to resolder as many points as I could find on the board... battery strips all tight... Put it back together and back on the charger with same results...

gonna try mulemeat's suggestion tomorrow and try to build it up a little with a fully charges battery..

j
mvphoto42289.jpg


mvphoto42290.jpg
 
Hello jniolon.


Did you check the INDIVIDUAL cells voltage? One dead one will result in zero voltage at the + and - terminals. Just like a bad connection between cells will. You can't put another battery in parallel with that one and revive it. Each cell or cells set, has a wire that comes from the control board. They are different colors, and what they do is charge each individual cell, so each cell receives the proper voltage charge. Those leads coming from the charge controller are called balance leads. One of the reasons Lithium pack are much better then the old subc cells,

Guido.
 
Hello teddy52foods,

Yep! I have found a pack with one cell wired in reverse polarity, the cell was totally shot! The pack voltage was 16 volts.
Put a new cell in, and the pack charged up at 20 volts, and worked just fine.

Guido.
 

Guido, I did check each cell by placing leads on each end and read zero voltage across each one of them... I don't understand why the charger goes thru the charge cycle for maybe 30 seconds then flashes green like everything is charged ???

j
 
Hello jniolon,

With the pack open, hook up The charger to the + and - of the pack, then check and see if battery voltage or individual cells
voltage goes up. cells have a low voltage protection and will read zero voltage at the tip, but will show voltage below the tip. If you look real close the positive tip have an opening, if you go below that cap you will probably get a voltage reading. The tip has no contact as the safety has turned the contact off from the cell. First charge the cells until you get above 2.7 volts each one, then the pack charger should take over,

Guido.
 

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