Deere 1020 carb flooding while running

Smokey99

Member
1966 JD carb (new TSX 904) flooding while mowing, sometimes it will catch up and continue. If it stops, I remove air inlet and let gas out. Then it will start up and run for a while. Carb Idle jet screw at 3 1/2 turns, load jet screw at 1/2 turn. Throttle disc is horizontal with choke off. All help greatly appreciated!
 
1966 JD carb (new TSX 904) flooding while mowing, sometimes it will catch up and continue. If it stops, I remove air inlet and let gas out. Then it will start up and run for a while. Carb Idle jet screw at 3 1/2 turns, load jet screw at 1/2 turn. Throttle disc is horizontal with choke off. All help greatly appreciated!
Float sticking or full of fuel. Ron MN
 
1966 JD carb (new TSX 904) flooding while mowing, sometimes it will catch up and continue. If it stops, I remove air inlet and let gas out. Then it will start up and run for a while. Carb Idle jet screw at 3 1/2 turns, load jet screw at 1/2 turn. Throttle disc is horizontal with choke off. All help greatly appreciated!
The throttle disc will not go horizontal; it goes vertical as you open the throttle. I would expect the throttle disc to be on a slight angle with only a small slot on each free side of the throttle plate at idle to allow air/fuel passage.

I am guessing you meant the choke disc which is the disc you see when you remove the air intake hose. The choke disc would be horizontal when the choke is off (pushed in).

I would expect the idle jet screw to be 1-1/4 to 2 turns out.

I would expect the load screw out 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 turns open.

Check for restrictions in the air intake system/filter as you look at things.

As the others have pointed out it sounds like you have a float issue. I will also add it might be a problem with the needle the float controls.
 
The throttle disc will not go horizontal; it goes vertical as you open the throttle. I would expect the throttle disc to be on a slight angle with only a small slot on each free side of the throttle plate at idle to allow air/fuel passage.

I am guessing you meant the choke disc which is the disc you see when you remove the air intake hose. The choke disc would be horizontal when the choke is off (pushed in).

I would expect the idle jet screw to be 1-1/4 to 2 turns out.

I would expect the load screw out 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 turns open.

Check for restrictions in the air intake system/filter as you look at things.

As the others have pointed out it sounds like you have a float issue. I will also add it might be a problem with the needle the float controls.
Yes, I meant choke disc. As the Carb is new, I too, wondered if air flow might be restricted. HOW EVER, my 1020 has the oil bath filter (I had already cleaned out bottom cup and replace oil. Neither the Op manual nor the service manual cleaning the wire filter element. What is your opinion on how to proceed, ie the wire filter element? Maybe find some one with a Varsol bath? Thanks for your help!
 
Yes, I meant choke disc. As the Carb is new, I too, wondered if air flow might be restricted. HOW EVER, my 1020 has the oil bath filter (I had already cleaned out bottom cup and replace oil. Neither the Op manual nor the service manual cleaning the wire filter element. What is your opinion on how to proceed, ie the wire filter element? Maybe find some one with a Varsol bath? Thanks for your help!
Check the air intake tube in the center of the housing. Those have been found to be plugged occasionally.

Others will likely be along with suggestions of how they cleaned their tractors oil bath air cleaner. Some soak the air cleaner housing in diesel fuel or kerosene. Some brave ones have done it with gasoline. you could also get a couple gallons of mineral spirits to dump in it. Sloshing the housing while you have the liquid in it will be needed to break up dirt in the mesh inside the housing and if it is dirty more than one application may be needed. Then stand it up right with the bottom open to let it drain out.

From you description I suspect the major problem is in the carb.
 
Check the air intake tube in the center of the housing. Those have been found to be plugged occasionally.

Others will likely be along with suggestions of how they cleaned their tractors oil bath air cleaner. Some soak the air cleaner housing in diesel fuel or kerosene. Some brave ones have done it with gasoline. you could also get a couple gallons of mineral spirits to dump in it. Sloshing the housing while you have the liquid in it will be needed to break up dirt in the mesh inside the housing and if it is dirty more than one application may be needed. Then stand it up right with the bottom open to let it drain out.

From you description I suspect the major problem is in the carb.
Thanks! I will take it down and bath it. It is a 1966 and never been cleaned - that I know of. Sure hope it won't be my new carb! (maybe I will put a valve on bottom of carb to empty gas if it happens again). Appreciate the help!
 
Thanks! I will take it down and bath it. It is a 1966 and never been cleaned - that I know of. Sure hope it won't be my new carb! (maybe I will put a valve on bottom of carb to empty gas if it happens again). Appreciate the help!
There is supposed to be a sintered bronze "screen" in the hole in the bottom of the air intake of the carb, about 2" in. It is supposed to let any gas that accumulates in the air passage drip out. is that there on your new carb?

carb10.jpg
 
There is supposed to be a sintered bronze "screen" in the hole in the bottom of the air intake of the carb, about 2" in. It is supposed to let any gas that accumulates in the air passage drip out. is that there on your new carb?

View attachment 155234
Yes, if it is unscrewed. One in old carb is very tight -I haven't really tried to take either out. I had just loosen inlet hose when flooding occured. Good place for a drain valve!
 
Yes, if it is unscrewed. One in old carb is very tight -I haven't really tried to take either out. I had just loosen inlet hose when flooding occured. Good place for a drain valve!
Those screens are pressed in, not screwed in.

Do you have an actual new Marvel Schebler TSX 904 carb or a new aftermarket replacement for a Marvel Schebler TSX 904?
 
Those screens are pressed in, not screwed in.

Do you have an actual new Marvel Schebler TSX 904 carb or a new aftermarket replacement for a Marvel Schebler TSX 904?
Thought they were screws - both are slotted. I have the old MS one that I removed and a new MS one I put one (non solenoid type load screw). How would the gas drip out?
 
Thought they were screws - both are slotted. I have the old MS one that I removed and a new MS one I put one (non solenoid type load screw). How would the gas drip out?
Did you see where the arrow in the picture I posted points to the sintered bronze drain filter? Did you notice the 4 puncture wound punch stake marks around the hole that hold the filter in?

Post some pictures of what you are looking at.
 
Did you see where the arrow in the picture I posted points to the sintered bronze drain filter? Did you notice the 4 puncture wound punch stake marks around the hole that hold the filter in?

Post some pictures of what you are looking at.
 
Old and new carb have slotted plugs. I can see screw threads on old carb. No sintered screen on inside of either carb. New carb screw is brass.
 

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