Deere 2 cylinder studs?

[Derweibhai]

I am swapping blocks on my 45 B with a bored block, and had to swap studs over. I see many go into the water jacket. I assume putting liquid Teflon on them wouldn't hurt anything, but from what I can find it isn't needed other than certain studs in the head for the manifold. All the block studs seem to go into the jacket as well. Thoughts?

Also my tractor suffered a frost leak from the prior owner (reason for block swap). He repaired the broken external hole in the head properly, but still had water get into the cylinders. My new block is crack free, but is there a way to insure the heads water passages are structurally intact and leak free? I was tempted to seal off the water ports in the old block and see if it leaked into the pushrod tubes, but haven't figured out how to seal it up enough to do that.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Duplicate post sorry

 

[Fixingfarmer]

A couple years ago I discovered black pipe compound it’s the same stuff but doesn’t show up so bad if the tractor is painted especially so that’s what I use it’s just normal pipe compound manifold bolts only

Install the head and see what happens or have it magnafluxed. It’s cheaper to see what happens if you don’t want to attempt the magnafluxing yourself

You would have some time in building block off plates plus at least at caterpillar when they pressure test it was in a super hot tank since the engine is hot IMO not worth the time

 

[JIM MN]

'Clean block threads and stud threads. Coat stud threads with Number One Permatex. Set into block and let set up. It will get hard and seal threads. Use on manifold bolts or studs too. Seals out antifreeze from coming up around the studs.

 

[George by Geneva, NY]

I am swapping blocks on my 45 B with a bored block, and had to swap studs over. I see many go into the water jacket. I assume putting liquid Teflon on them wouldn't hurt anything, but from what I can find it isn't needed other than certain studs in the head for the manifold. All the block studs seem to go into the jacket as well. Thoughts?

Also my tractor suffered a frost leak from the prior owner (reason for block swap). He repaired the broken external hole in the head properly, but still had water get into the cylinders. My new block is crack free, but is there a way to insure the heads water passages are structurally intact and leak free? I was tempted to seal off the water ports in the old block and see if it leaked into the pushrod tubes, but haven't figured out how to seal it up enough to do that.

For sealing the manifold to head, I have successfully used orange RTV on bolts instead of studs. Just have to be sure to measure bolt length so thread end does not extend too far in head and hits push rod tube. RTV has to be applied on oil/grease free surfaces but when cured works and is not nasty to clean off if parts are off in future. FYI that is the same stuff that held the tiles and blankets onto the skin of the Space Shuttles...

 

[Larry in WNY]

Lead washers are used also but RTV is needed on clean threads. Use copper coat paint on both sides of the head gasket for extra sealing.