Did some ditching this weekend.

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Last spring I bought this scraper, I think it's a case but haven't confirmed it yet. It has case hubs on it for sure.

20240406_113942.jpg
20240406_121341.jpg


This weekend I finally had time to use it. In spite of it being the most busted up and repaired piece of equipment I've ever seen, it worked good. Had it hooked to the 1030.

20241014_174418.jpg


Did this short ditch first to drain the wet spot by the trees, it's where the neighbors sewer drains so is always wet and had developed a low spot. Put the dirt in the low part and made a ditch to drain it.

20241014_084013.jpg


Then went on the the big ditch. The part along the trees has a spring that feeds it and is always wet and I've never been able to farm it. I'm hoping this will drain it enough now that I can farm through it. It was still too wet to get all the way to the trees, but should dry now so I can finish next week.

20241014_170159.jpg

More progress further along. This ditch snakes along diagonal through the field and was about 1/2 mile long total.



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20241014_170037.jpg


This is the deepest part and is about 3ft deep.

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The past portion had more drop so I just had to make a shallow run.

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I have another one to do and hope to get to it this weekend.
 
Why not just tile some of it and not have to work around the ditches and still be wet? IF we put in some of those ditches like yours we would wash away from the bare ground before spring with no sod cover on it.
 
It worked pretty good making that waterway probably for less than the 7 grand the guy with the dozer charged us. Seeding does need to occur is a month late and might be wasted but something needs to be tried. You never know if you will have time come spring. If you get a flood and have to try again once spring settles down so be it you have the tool to try again. Often where the waterway is around here there’s a tile main under it
 
Why not just tile some of it and not have to work around the ditches and still be wet? IF we put in some of those ditches like yours we would wash away from the bare ground before spring with no sod cover on it.
2 reasons, first is that under a few inches of heavy clay top soil is 2 ft or so of blue clay. Water won't go through blue clay as demonstrated by the water still sitting at the start of the ditch after 6 weeks with no rain. Second is there is only about 5 ft of drop total to water table on my land from the highest point, so any tile will mostly be under water and as likely to bring water in as out. There is very little tile around here for that reason and any open ditches. Wish I lived where tile worked.
 
It worked pretty good making that waterway probably for less than the 7 grand the guy with the dozer charged us. Seeding does need to occur is a month late and might be wasted but something needs to be tried. You never know if you will have time come spring. If you get a flood and have to try again once spring settles down so be it you have the tool to try again. Often where the waterway is around here there’s a tile main under it
In response to the seeding i think I would throw some annual Rye in along with some brome and whatever else you like, let the rye go until spring real late, mow, up kinda high, bale and let her go, feed the rye bales
 
Last spring I bought this scraper, I think it's a case but haven't confirmed it yet. It has case hubs on it for sure.

View attachment 90744View attachment 90745

This weekend I finally had time to use it. In spite of it being the most busted up and repaired piece of equipment I've ever seen, it worked good. Had it hooked to the 1030.

View attachment 90746

Did this short ditch first to drain the wet spot by the trees, it's where the neighbors sewer drains so is always wet and had developed a low spot. Put the dirt in the low part and made a ditch to drain it.

View attachment 90747

Then went on the the big ditch. The part along the trees has a spring that feeds it and is always wet and I've never been able to farm it. I'm hoping this will drain it enough now that I can farm through it. It was still too wet to get all the way to the trees, but should dry now so I can finish next week.

View attachment 90750
More progress further along. This ditch snakes along diagonal through the field and was about 1/2 mile long total.



View attachment 90751View attachment 90752

This is the deepest part and is about 3ft deep.

View attachment 90753

The past portion had more drop so I just had to make a shallow run.

View attachment 90755

I have another one to do and hope to get to it this weekend.
by the way Jon looks good, I like the scraper and 1030, but I am a little partial to 1030s, run a light disc down them to even/smooth stuff a bit and you have a great waterway!
 
Last spring I bought this scraper, I think it's a case but haven't confirmed it yet. It has case hubs on it for sure.

View attachment 90744View attachment 90745

This weekend I finally had time to use it. In spite of it being the most busted up and repaired piece of equipment I've ever seen, it worked good. Had it hooked to the 1030.

View attachment 90746

Did this short ditch first to drain the wet spot by the trees, it's where the neighbors sewer drains so is always wet and had developed a low spot. Put the dirt in the low part and made a ditch to drain it.

View attachment 90747

Then went on the the big ditch. The part along the trees has a spring that feeds it and is always wet and I've never been able to farm it. I'm hoping this will drain it enough now that I can farm through it. It was still too wet to get all the way to the trees, but should dry now so I can finish next week.

View attachment 90750
More progress further along. This ditch snakes along diagonal through the field and was about 1/2 mile long total.



View attachment 90751View attachment 90752

This is the deepest part and is about 3ft deep.

View attachment 90753

The past portion had more drop so I just had to make a shallow run.

View attachment 90755

I have another one to do and hope to get to it this weekend.
Very nice work !!! Jim
 
Just one comment on the ditching. You may want to widen out that deepest part a bit and try to flatten the bottom a little. Having a V bottom waterway can lead to it eroding if you get a heavy water flow.

From the RRV where water management is everything. This past spring, those that have been maintaining their drainage planted, those who haven’t kept up did not.
 
Nice.

a few 100 or Less south of you, I’m so glad tile work here. We have the yellow clay and blue clay sub soils too, but the glaciers mixed in just tiny bit of loan into the yellow clay to make it drain if slowly, workable.

hard to tell with camera angles but I would try to make that something one can farm through, make the slopes smooth enough. It doesn’t look like a big area or a lot of fall so it shouldnt wash out. Gully. Again, based on here in my back yard, might be different there. :)

paul
 
Nice.

a few 100 or Less south of you, I’m so glad tile work here. We have the yellow clay and blue clay sub soils too, but the glaciers mixed in just tiny bit of loan into the yellow clay to make it drain if slowly, workable.

hard to tell with camera angles but I would try to make that something one can farm through, make the slopes smooth enough. It doesn’t look like a big area or a lot of fall so it shouldnt wash out. Gully. Again, based on here in my back yard, might be different there. :)

paul
I doubt it will wash because most if it is near level
 
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