Differential Pedal, YM2000

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I have something broken internally. The pedal is loose or not connected to anything. The roll pin that can be seen on the outside of the shaft is intact. I think I may have sheared a pin on the inside or something worse. In the service manual (p65) it shows a "special tool being used. Can someone tell me what this is used for? Can repairs like this be performed "in tractor" very easy? Any suggestions or warnings as what to look for when I start taking bolts out would greatly be appreciated.
 
It can be a bit of work, so if you use the lock rarely and it's not engaged now, you could forget it. The only possible concern, I think a remote one, is a broken bit loose in the system.
 
Winston, I was pulling a bucket load of mud out of a pond when one wheel started to spin, I stopped, put my heel on the lock and it went to the floor. It can be raised by hand, moved up and down and feels disconnected. As Alan suggested, I'm concerned about loose metal in the system doing more damage.
 
My Bet the Pin to the Shifter Fork. If the Fork itself broke it would of most likely have taken alot pressure for it to break. 6 bolts and lift up the 3point and you should be able to easily access it.
 
I removed the top of the PTO assembly, and assumed the roll pin was sheared at the fork. it was gone. I used a long flexable magnet and fished for pieces of the pin with no luck, I found a lot of normal filings of metal, I blew air into the case, hoping to dislodge any big pieces, I poured about two quarts of transmission fluid over the gears hoping to wash something out, found nothing. My brother walked in, picked up the magnet and pulled the whole pin, still intact, with the inner spring pin still inside out in about 20 seconds. I dont know how many years it has been in stalled but it had slipped out in one piece, the new pins had to be driven in and seems tight. I would not have thought this could happen, but it did.
 
I am having similar issues with my diff lock pedal. I'm assuming I'll need to remove the PTO assembly and see what's going on in there but am hoping to get some clarification on the pedal action first. The pedal is loose with no resistance when pushing down but does feel like it's engaging if I pull up on it. I hooked the rear end up with a chain to a tree, put it in 1st gear low range, and it certainly appeared that I was able to get both wheels to spin when pulling up on the diff lock lever as opposed to only one being driven without the lever up. I have only seen one person out there referencing <I><s></s>pulling up <e></e></I> on the lever to engage. Any thoughts on this action? I haven't looked at the mechanism internally before so I can't picture how it engages. Thanks.
 
Unless someone has installed something wrong it should only engage when pushed down. Could it just be stuck in the engaged position or does it actually disengage when you press the pedal down? You can tell for sure by jacking up the rear axle and putting it in gear with the engine off.



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Here is a picture of an FX24D. Different than yours but works the same. Seeing it in the transmission might help you understand it.

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That's a good call Aaron, I will jack the rear end up and check engagement manually. I'm curious to see how that feels though I'm still anticipating opening it up to look at the difflock mechanism for myself since something odd is definitely happening.

I've looked at that parts breakdown on the Hoye site before but winston's photo helped fill in the blanks of the actual mechanism for me. I was missing the cam effect that roll pin has on the fork in particular.

Thanks to both of you for your help.
 
I did end up removing the 3-point unit to look inside the transmission and also jacked it up to get a better feel for the difflock engagement. It does engage but I'm also wondering if the posts on the collar may be worn or rounded a bit? I can't get a good look at the inside of the differential from the top to see the posts on the collar and ring carrier gear channels. If I can find a little telescoping mirror I might be able to catch a glimpse.

Interestingly, it definitely engages on pulling up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElticTRHAFo and the mechanism looks good to me, aside from a very worn fork. I am confused by the fact that others with YM2000s use the pedal in a standard, "pedal like" way to engage. Am I missing something or is this specific to the green/gray-market YM2000s?

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The way the fork is designed I believe it would engage whether pulled up or pushed down but meant to be pushed down. I cannot tell anything for sure about your picture but looking at the picture I cannot see the lower cam on the fork. Is it possibly broken or worn off? If so it the fork would not be engaging the roll pin when you push down. It would be worn where the red arrow is and on the other side it would be the down side. Make any sense?

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I think wear in those areas, though severe, could cause the same effect. However I realized since a portion of the radiused arm is broken off, there is not enough material left on the upper portion of the fork to hold the arm against the collar when pushing down. There is still enough of the arm to engage when pulling up. Luckily found a used one in good shape at a bargain price that I hope to swap out and improve the issue.
 
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