Do I need my distributor rebuilt?

[Stephen Newell]

I will look into the distributor again for the clip. Can't really remember a clip.

I don't have a test light but have held the coil wire against the block to see if I was getting fire and I was. Then with an inline spark plug tester I was getting nothing going to the plugs.

I've never really understood what a condenser does but I looked it up on the net and don't think I'm experiencing a bad condenser. The points are not getting pitted and the engine runs smooth. It either runs well or not at all.

 

[Stephen Newell]

I wondered about that myself and put the coil wire off my Jeep on it and that didn't help it either.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Assuming the tractor is wired neg gnd, disconnect the existing wire on coil pos terminal. Run a new wire from the coil pos terminal to the pos post on the battery and try to start it.

 

[I550]

Did you check the static timing? Does the rotor fit tightly on the distributor shaft?
How is the mechanical advance? You may have spark just not at the right time. Replacing rotor you may be inadvertently turning the shaft back so it will start.

 

[Stephen Newell]

The rotor fits tight and the timing is good. While I was waiting on parts I put a couple different used caps and rotors on it and nothing worked. It's just when I got the new cap and rotor it fired right up.

 

[Stephen Newell]

The tractor was born negative ground and 6v. A previous owner converted it to 12v and positive ground. I did try running a wire from the battery to the coil while cranking it and it didn't help.

I always seem to get some weird problem that there doesn't seem to be a cause or a solution.

 

[used red MN]

I cannot give you the exact electrical terminology of what the condenser does for the points. Essentially it reduces ..the electrical burn across the points.. or cuts down the arc across the points as they open. So, yes if your points do not seem to last long from pitting your condenser could be bad. But the condenser can be bad in another way that causes electrical interference in the ignition circuit causing the engine not to fire or provides a spark that is sporadic instead of consistent. So in this case the condenser is faulty but not necessarily by the definition of its purpose. Just like the lubrication system on an engine is for the purpose of keeping the engine lubricated. However, the lubrication system can also develop oil leaks. So it can also cause a problem that by definition has nothing to do with its purpose but is a problem ..the leaks.. that needs repaired.
Hope that makes some sense. If JohnT sees this I am sure he could explain the electrical terms for the condenser much better.

 

[mEl]

Look at the condenser as a reservoir that current can flow into, with the points closed, the reservoir is empty. It is called a capacitor in electronic terms precisely because it has capacity . When the points break in a ignition circuit the magnetic field in the coil collapses because it lost its voltage ground when the points opened. When this happens the field collapsing induces a electrical charge into the high side of the ignition windings and causes the high voltage from the coil. NOW, going back to the 12V side, The same magnetic field collapse is inducing current back into the low voltage side and it has nowhere to go as the points are open and it tries to jump that gap as Voltages can actually be several hundred volts instantiously. The condenser sits there in circuit and then the current flows into it and the voltage builds there instead of trying to jump the points. Then the current flows back out of the condenser as primary voltage falls and reinforces the spark, when the ignition voltage is viewed on a scope it is a zigzag pattern which shows the voldage rise and fall. The several hundred volts is what causes the several thousand at the coil tower. 12 volts is not enough volts to cause the high voltage at the coil, this high voltage is caused by induction between the two coils in the coil from the magnetic field collapse. I hope this is not to indepth to confuse anyone

 

[John Saeli]

A lot of good advice here, but your problem is NOT Cap & Rotor. Those are the last things. When your tractor left the factory it was 6V POS Ground. Where did you get the idea it was NEG. Ground? So, if you are still POS ground as you said, be sure the IGN. wire goes to the NEG side of the coil, and the POS side of the coil goes to the Dist..

 

[teddy52food]

Also , there is more coming back out of the coil than what went in. Not noticeable on
a small ignition coil but wind one up using 10 miles of windings and it is
measureable!

 

[I550]

A couple more ideas. Have someone turn over engine. Check spark at the points, should be yellow or white and consistent. Compare to another vehicle with points. I have never had much luck filing points. Replace them and the condenser. If you take a knife and scrape off the end of one of your old rotors I bet it will start. I have had to do that if a vehicle has sat for a long time due to corrosion.

 

[Stephen Newell]

I've done that, scrape off the contacts on the cap and rotor however the cap and rotor I replaced there isn't anything to scrape off. They look nearly new. Just a slight discolor. This is what I don't understand.

 

[Stephen Newell]

OK, I wrote that backwards by mistake. It is now a negative ground. It's been that way since 2009 when I bought the tractor. The ignition has been working fine until this year. It mysteriously quits getting a spark and nothing helps it except to change the cap and rotor. I have a condenser ordered but it doesn't really have the symptoms of being bad. The only other thing not mentioned is the ballast resister. I don't know how changing the cap and rotor would make a difference if the resister was going bad.

 

[Jim.ME]

To me, any wire you bump or move in changing the cap and rotor is suspect at this point, an internal break or high resistance in a connection could change with a small movement. The resistor could have a problem, like a weak solder connection or corrosion under a slide on spade end.

Did you check for an insulator on the post where the primary wire from the distributor, the condenser wire and point leaf come together?

Have you tried washing the inside of the cap and the rotor with electric parts cleaner to see if there is carbon tracking across them?

 

[Joe (Wa)]

A quick check for ignition circuit low voltage due to a problem with the battery, cranking circuit, and/or starter. Connect a separate battery to the coil and tractor frame, try starting the engine.

 

[Stephen Newell]

When the tractor started acting up I put it on a battery maintainer while I was working on it. The gauge is showing 14 volts and cranks fast. This is something the tractor has had a history with it cranking slow. Do you think I could be loosing enough voltage it's not starting? I'm getting 12v at the coil while cranking. Anyway, it's running right now. If I put the old cap and rotor back on I wouldn't be getting a spark again. This is what is driving me nuts. I'm beginning to think the manufacturer of the cap and rotor is making too much space between. I think maybe the least little bit of wear and it quits. I put a NAPA cap and rotor on it once and it never worked once. I don't know enough about them to try different brands to maybe fine a better set. The ones I'm using right now are from All States Tractor Parts which come in a box unbranded.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Except for the wires at the coil and the key switch I haven't checked the wiring much. I also did not wash the inside of the cap and rotor, they are in like new condition. At this point I've put a new cap and rotor on and the tractor is running great. If I put the old cap and rotor back on it wouldn't fire again. I also have a new NAPA cap and rotor if I put that on it wouldn't fire. I can't help but think there is an issue with the distributor or the cap and rotor. It may be there is too much clearance between the contacts that the slightest wear causes it not to fire. I don't know. Nothing is making any sense.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I haven't bought any for 10 years or so but have been using NAPA Echlin AL69 rotor and AL70 cap on the IAD6003 series distributors forever, occasionally after winter setup wipe points with a emery board and fill the vapor oiler often.

If you have 12v to the coil while cranking then you're good there, maybe a little too good. Have you checked for loose or sticking valves?

 

[Jim.ME]

Is the Prestolite distributor tag still on the distributor? It might be well to see what cap and rotor that distributor number calls for.

What are the NAPA and the All States part numbers you have been getting?

 

[I550]

You have plenty of rotors now. Take the brass contact off one and rivet or screw it onto another one. That will give you more contact on the center terminal. Or you could bend the center contact up a bit.