Dodge 360 engine. Valve setting specs?

R Wyler

Member
I just bought an 86 Dodge 350 with 360 engine. I put in new plugs cap rotor ect. Engine runs a little rough. My service manual does not list the valve setting for this engine. I am going to get a Chrysler engine manual when I get time. Does anyone know the valve settings? And I assume they are to be set when hot. Thanks for any help.
 
I could be mistaken, (have been once or twice, but that was a long time ago!) LOL BUT, a 1986 360 engine should have hydraulic lifters, and I don't think there is any adjusting to be done. If I am not correct, I know someone will let me know.
 
T Thanks, that is interesting. Well that would save me the chore of that is ineed the case lol. I do need to get an engine manual for this soon. I am not too bad of a mechanic on old tractors though automotive is a new area for me. I try to learn fast though :)
 
hydralic cam and no adjusting. now saying that; i've seen bent pushrods, worn rockers, bad springs, burned valves. first find out what cylinder is causing the problem. then proceed from there; might even do a compression check!
 
Thanks for the info. I never expected it to have hydraulic lifters. I am used to older engines and nothing else I imagine. I will do that. Might be looking at giving the engine an OH this winter.
 
I know what you mean about the older engines! tomNE had some good suggestions. Might check the timing as well. You didn't say how many miles are on it, but a worn timing chain can cause problems. Some years ago, I bought a 70 Coronet from a boy who had totaled it and it sat behind his house for three or four years. I put the engine in my 69 Coronet and after getting it cranked and a few adjustments pulled out onto the road, when I hit the gas, it lost power, did some checking, timing was off, reset timing and drove it about two weeks before she quit on me coming home from work one day. Had it towed home and found out the timing gears were stripped. These were nylon gears, and I suspect that just sitting there and not being run, caused them to dry out and become brittle. A new timing set and got another two years service before I parked it for other reasons. A little long winded here, but you just never know. But one thing you mentioned, There is no substitute for a good service manual!
 
The timing chain sprocets will wear and the timing chain will jump a tooth or two at about 125000 miles. Or at least it did on the three 318's and one 360 I had. The 84 Fifth Avenue with a 318 that I had jumped the timing chain on Marilyn while I was away on the harvest and she had some shade tree mechanic look at it. He messed with the timing until it ran just well enough to get her home but she said it was running bad. I told her on the phone the timing chain had jumped and she should have it towed back to town to a good mechanic. He ended up replacing all of the valves cause they were bent. The shade tree mechanic cost me a bunch of money. One of the other 318's I had jumped a tooth with no damage and I replaced the chain and sprocket on the other two before they could jump. Jim
 
Don't forget to check for the most overlooked problem on an engine that runs rough: Do a thorough check for a leak somewhere in the vacuum system.
 
Thanks for all the response and information. I will look into everything mentioned. I will replace the vacume lines ect and look at the exaust system and try ruling things out.
 
Is that a sensor? I am new to automotive work. Also would there be a simpler type carb I could put on there to get rid of all that vacume stuff?? I am not real concerned with fuel mileage because it is mainly a farm pickup not used daily.
 
CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH "LA" V-8
1964-89 273, 340-360 Cu. In. & 1967-89 318 Cu. In.
1. The majority of these engines have non-adjustable rocker
arms. The lifter preload must be maintained between
.020" and .060". This may require the pushrod length to be
changed. See cam instructions for detail.
2. For maximum performance, and to provide the most accurate valve adjustment on hydraulic lifter camshafts, the use
of part number 69770-16 adjustable rocker arms and part
number 69691-16 pushrods is highly recommended.
3. 1986-91 318 and 360 engines are equipped with hydraulic
roller camshafts and tappets. Conventional hydraulic,
mechanical or roller lifters can be installed in these
engines providing the appropriate kit components are
used.
 
I have never seen a 360 with factory adjustable rocker arms--they all had hydraulic lifters. However once, working on a Ford 390 with nonadjustable rockers, a buddy of mine and I came up with a noise we just could not get rid of in the valve train. A single, slightly longer pushrod finally took care of that noise.

At work our fleet had quite a few 318"s and 360 Dodges and Plymouths in the 70"s and 80"s. Our head mechanic, who was a confirmed Ford man, didn"t like the Mopars much, and complained about having problems with the intake manifolds cracking, which would produce a vacuum leak. The only fix was to replace the manifold, which took some time. I don"t know how many times this occurred in our fleet of about 20 Mopars. I liked the Mopars we had. They were MUCH faster and quicker than the rest of the fleet, which were Fords, usually with larger engines than the Mopars.

I have had some luck finding vacuum leaks by idling the fully warm engine and moving an unlit, but slightly opened propane torch around spots I think might have vacuum leaks. If the engine idle rate gets higher and/or the idle smooths out, you have probably found the vacuum leak by adding fuel to an overly lean cylinder. Obviously, you want to do this test outdoors and with a fire extinguisher close.

I don"t remember when it was, but for a while, Chrysler used an unusual EGR system which did not use a conventional valve, but rather had two "jets" bored in the exhaust crossover beneath the carb. This allowed the engine to pass emissions, and was probably very cheap, but it also made them run rougher than they should have. The engines ran better if those exhaust "jets" were plugged. I don"t think Chrysler used that system very long and probably your engine has a more conventional EGR system with a valve. If the EGR isn"t working right, your engine may run poorly. I worked on one that had the EGR valve stuck open all the time that was hard starting and would almost not idle. With a new EGR valve, it ran perfect.

Good luck with your 360, but I don"t think that you can adjust the valves in it.
 
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