Does anyone offer a syncro range bushing/rebuild kit?

Looking to improve the shifter on the 68 3020. Do I just have to look at the parts diagrams and order everything sep or does someone sell a kit similar to the seat bushing kits?
 
I get the bushings , thrust washers , pins and yokes from Deere and the pivot from All State,,I weld the handle up and grind it back to shape, I make the shifter rods out of round stock here.I did 3 of them last week,,It will make a big difference,, A lot of the play in the shift comes from wear where the Latch flips back and forth,,this is the main reason for when you kinda miss 8th gear and need to pick up just a bit on the shifter to get back into 8th,, you can not shim it, so I remove the pin and put a grade 8 bolt in place and make sure the threaded part of the bolt is past the latch, then "Carefully" tighten it a bit, this closes the gap just a bit to firm it up,,but not too much,,when your doing this you are squeezing a casting and that is rolling the Dice,, but it's worth the roll to tighten up the shift.
 
No,, It's some thing that needs done on the tractor,,they are not bad to work on,, if you get started I will walk you through it if you need help.
 

I see. I appreciate the offer. I have a TIG welder so I can accomplish the welding. Guess I just need to figure out what parts it needs and get those on order.
 
2-R42127 Washer - WASHER THRUST ADD 1.02 USD 2.04 USD
2-R26182 Bushing - BUSHING ADD 8.90 USD 17.80 USD
1-R53247 Pivot - PIVOT,GEAR SHIFT LEVER ADD 33.79 USD 33.79 USD
2-R26187 Washer - WASHER,THRUST ADD 2.86 USD 5.72 USD
1-R26192 Snap Ring - RING,RETAINING ADD 2.61 USD 2.61 USD
2-C284R Yoke - YOKE ADD 25.98 USD 51.96 USD
2-R65563 Pin Fastener - SPECIAL PIN ADD 2.95 USD 5.90 USD
*Subtotal 119.82 USD
*Total 119.82 USD
 
Tim I have a 2510, and they do not have that latch mechanism. The shifter will move from range to range while on the right side of the quadrant because of wear and no latch. Will the parts from a 3020 or 4020 fit on this tractor to alleviate this problem? I know I will need the replace the detent as well, and probably the shifter piece in the trans.
 

Shifter latch for 2510 syncro-range trans shifter control is key 5 in photo below

mvphoto32286.png
 
Yes and the parts are the same but the latch is held a bit different,,some times the latch will break too,
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:37 03/01/19) 2-R42127 Washer - WASHER THRUST ADD 1.02 USD 2.04 USD
2-R26182 Bushing - BUSHING ADD 8.90 USD 17.80 USD
1-R53247 Pivot - PIVOT,GEAR SHIFT LEVER ADD 33.79 USD 33.79 USD
2-R26187 Washer - WASHER,THRUST ADD 2.86 USD 5.72 USD
1-R26192 Snap Ring - RING,RETAINING ADD 2.61 USD 2.61 USD
2-C284R Yoke - YOKE ADD 25.98 USD 51.96 USD
2-R65563 Pin Fastener - SPECIAL PIN ADD 2.95 USD 5.90 USD
*Subtotal 119.82 USD
*Total 119.82 USD

I really do appreciate that info, saved me quite a bit of time.
 
hello tim,, i'm greenwrench in VA.. i've been shimming the latch when i do a sychro.. job as well as weld the shift lever and grind it to square it up.. been doing it this way over 40 years..
 
Everything said above plus, another big source of play is where the shift rods go into the levers on the side of the transmission. Your are looking at about $350 to get new through deere, but I take them to a local machine shop and he bores them out and presses a bushing in for me. The bushing is a 3/8 cast valve guide and he charges $25 an arm, so its cheap. If you tighten everything up at the top, I don't know if the shifter was any tighter from new...
 
(quoted from post at 05:24:31 03/03/19)
Shifter latch for 2510 syncro-range trans shifter control is key 5 in photo below

mvphoto32286.png

Parts 13 and 14 here. I bought a new #14 and it has a counter sunk hole on both sides, 13 has a hole drilled in both sides as well but my original only has a pin in one side. Is there supposed to be pins in both sides?
 
1/4" roll pins in from both sides, don't seat them real tight, it will put a wriggle in the inside bore, just drive them in till they bottom out.
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:03 03/09/19) 1/4" roll pins in from both sides, don't seat them real tight, it will put a wriggle in the inside bore, just drive them in till they bottom out.

I got it all rebuilt this weekend, appreciate the help with it. Turns out that a good deal of my slop is down in the transmission shift arms where the rods go in. I've ordered new ones but the upper shifter rebuild did make a significant improvement.
 
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