Doing rear main seal - what else while split open?

Bvango

Member
If I’m going to split my tractor for a rear main seal - what else would you look at and or replace while you have it all open? I’m thinking putting in a new clutch kit, trumpet housing gasket, transmission rear axel gasket, etc.

But what else would you check out or replace?
 
If I’m going to split my tractor for a rear main seal - what else would you look at and or replace while you have it all open? I’m thinking putting in a new clutch kit, trumpet housing gasket, transmission rear axel gasket, etc.

But what else would you check out or replace?
Pilot bearing and throwout bearing (part of the 'clutch kit', maybe?) and most importantly the input shaft seal associated with the transmission.
 
Good call I have this on my list so far - would love anything else to take a look at while I’m in there

Clutch kit - 185

Clutch release spring - 6.90

Rear axle trumpet housing gasket - 4.20

Transmission rear axel gasket - 6.90

Oil pan gasket - 8.90

Carburetor gasket - 4.10

Oil filter - 10.30

Oil pump rebuild - 107

Tie rod boots - 13.40

Transmission input shaft seal - 9

Ring gear flywheel - 49

Crankshaft seal kit - 24
 
Only thing I could add would be if the flywheel ring gear is installed from the back towards the front of tractor the starter drive can move the ring gear off the flywheel causing the engine to lock up or in theory I think you could saw your tractor in half.
When i had mine apart 50 years ago I checked the adjustment of cone bearings in transmission. I remember removing some shims to tighten them up a bit. I may have had to perform a double split to access. I did a static balance of flywheel and clutch cover too.
Easy if your old pilot bearing is good and free. Check you oil pump kit carefully, all directions. Have a plan when drilling the set screw hole in shaft and aluminum gear.
 
Only thing I could add would be if the flywheel ring gear is installed from the back towards the front of tractor the starter drive can move the ring gear off the flywheel causing the engine to lock up or in theory I think you could saw your tractor in half.
When i had mine apart 50 years ago I checked the adjustment of cone bearings in transmission. I remember removing some shims to tighten them up a bit. I may have had to perform a double split to access. I did a static balance of flywheel and clutch cover too.
Easy if your old pilot bearing is good and free. Check you oil pump kit carefully, all directions. Have a plan when drilling the set screw hole in shaft and aluminum gear.
Can you elaborate on the set screw etc. never rebuilt the oil pump before
 
Can you elaborate on the set screw etc. never rebuilt the oil pump before

New bushing, you'll need a reamer to size it. In this particular kit the free gear was off centered enough that it would get tight when turning. Bad quality, offshore manufacturing, sad.
oil pump - 1 (1).jpeg


The gear is a press fit on the shaft and indexed with a set screw. It's a challenge to drill a hole 1/2 in aluminum and 1/2 in steel. A vertical mill would work. They do make a tool to index the drill for us common mechanics. Here's the hole ready to be tapped. 1/4 - 28 tap.
oil pump - 1 (3).jpeg


oil pump - 1 (2).jpeg


oil pump tool rotate - 1.jpeg


oil pump tool - 1.jpeg


oil pump tool - 3.jpeg
 
New bushing, you'll need a reamer to size it. In this particular kit the free gear was off centered enough that it would get tight when turning. Bad quality, offshore manufacturing, sad.
View attachment 136360

The gear is a press fit on the shaft and indexed with a set screw. It's a challenge to drill a hole 1/2 in aluminum and 1/2 in steel. A vertical mill would work. They do make a tool to index the drill for us common mechanics. Here's the hole ready to be tapped. 1/4 - 28 tap.
View attachment 136362

View attachment 136361

View attachment 136363

View attachment 136364

View attachment 136365
Where did you get this from?
 
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